Cracked Sump in Encapsolated keel-repair

[jpendoley]

Tough day at the boatyard today. While moving my Pearson 424 to launch another boat, the yard blocked beneath the sump in the bilge. It gave with a very audible crack and water began draining out. This design has encapsulated ballast and a very deep bilge-like four feet deep. The area beneath the bilge is not designed to carry the weight of the boat when blocked. At this point I can pour water in the bilge and watch it drain out the cracks in the underside of the keel. So far, I can see two cracks running for and aft that are visible in the bilge.

I've done a bit of glass work over the years, but this would be a first for me. The yard has offered to fix it, but I am concerned about the extent of their experience and their timeline-I had planned on launching in a week or so.
From the experienced glass people out there, how would you approach this repair? All from the outside? Inside and outside? I'm not even sure we can reach to the bottom of the bilge.... Obviously there would be a thorough cleaning of the bilge required followed by a bath in acetone before bonding.

[JPA Cate]

Man, you need to involve your insurance company in this one, and you'll want a surveyor, as well as good quality f/g folks. And, you'll have to allow time for it. Obviously, you cannot just go back in the water the way you are, and if the repair is not strong enough, it will collapse on re-launching. The repair will have to be done in the slings, so that the boat assumes the same shape as she has in the water. We learned this the hard way.

Ann

[Orion Jim]

Originally Posted by JPA Cate

Man, you need to involve your insurance company in this one, and you'll want a surveyor, as well as good quality f/g folks. And, you'll have to allow time for it. Obviously, you cannot just go back in the water the way you are, and if the repair is not strong enough, it will collapse on re-launching. The repair will have to be done in the slings, so that the boat assumes the same shape as she has in the water. We learned this the hard way.

Ann

Agree fully with Ann. Immediately notify your insurance company. This is a hull integrity and seaworthiness issue, nothing less.

[jpendoley]

I’d be surprised if a repair in the slings were necessary. I’ve repaired a few big boats after severe groundings, one an IP38, tore a hole in her keel and spilled ballast. That boat was magnificently restored on the hard only. If it was externally ballasted, I could absolutely see suspension in slings being required. Ann, was your boat externally ballasted? Remember, this is a boat with encapsulated ballast and the sump is very deep with only four inches of glass between it and the block. The ballasted area is separated from the sump by quite a distance. I’d call it a known vulnerability in that area of the keel. Biggest issue is determining how localized the damage is.

[neilpride]

In many boatyards it is forbidden to board the boat while hanging from the travelift.

They must be supported on full round supports, usually made of wood and positioned on the main bulkheads.

[gonesail]

if you ever get it fixed .. make note of where NOT to block the boat at haul out.

[jpendoley]

Gonesail-I told them where not to block it[emoji849]

[JPA Cate]

Ann, was your boat externally ballasted?

Yes, it was externally ballasted. Had a short stub to which the keel was attached, and the problem, which Jim did eventually fix himself, in the water, was due to a hard grounding on a coral reef, which drove the aft end of the keel up, crushing the fiberglass. First we had the fiberglass patch man, who had to come twice to make a strong enough patch (hanging in the slings) to stay watertight: the first time we re-launched, when the repair had been done while the boat was blocked up, but sitting on the keel, it cracked when lifted and leaked copiously, so we went right back up. The second time, the patch, having been made thicker and stronger and larger, worked. It was done hanging, so we avoided the shape change.

In our case, which I don't think relevant to your damage, at all, we put in two stringers and one new floor, at the aft end of the keel, and it really stiffened the boat. I guess you "get it" that that part of our experience is irrelevant to your fix. Most of your problems will be due to water intrusion, I'd think. What material is your ballast? [she asks, hoping it's lead.]

Ann

[jpendoley]

Ann, your keel damage sounds like a couple of projects I’ve worked on it the past. The damage is almost always aft at the trailing edge of the keel. This one is different because it’s fully encapsulated, the ballast is lead and it was not a moving accident, but a blocking mishap. I’m pretty sure damage is confined to the sump. Question is do I laminate from the outside, inside or both?

[JPA Cate]

You know, I don't know for sure. I am guessing, only, but if your lead is loose in there, it would probably be better to do it from inside. If it has had epoxy poured over it and is bonded in there, I'd think you'd have to do it from the outside.

Good luck with it.

Ann

[deltaten]

Hmmm.....
I'd venture both. Water in/water out suggests damage in two distinct areas.

Typical of exterior repairs; gouge out, sand back, FG patch, fair and finish as the rest.

Deep well bilge? A PITA; but I've seen several on YT that have done it. Same as above; but with copious McGuyvering involved to extend tools etc to bottom. Some have gone so far as to build up the bottom to make normal access....well....more accessible.

All that water intrusion, ya might wanna run a vacuum in the bilge for a while. Perhaps drill a hole at bottom, fast set a fitting to fasten the hose. Yer gonna do repairs anyway, so plugging the hole is no worry .