Deck Hull Joint, What Is This?

[GordMay]

Nonsuch 26 Specs ➥ http://www.nonsuch.org/assets/docs/ns26insert.pdf

[skipgundlach]

Nobody else has tackled this so I'll say it.

Mold can kill you. It's bad enough on most boats, due to the nature of the beast; if you have active leaks which generate (or that's your presumption, from what I read) massive mold growth, fixing them is a big deal to your and any others' health.

I like drilling out and gooping the offender; if it were a bolt, it would be a bit more challenging. But 5200 is more glue than caulk; it's overkill to the job, methinks, and will just make your life more miserable should you have to pull it all up and go at it from the top. If 3M still made 101 I'd use it; their new stuff in the 4000 series (I forget whether 4000 or 4200 off the top of my head), while claiming UV, sucks in the open air; I'll have to redo my toerail after 3 years because it's chalking horribly and in some places pulling out, and in general, if washed, becomes soft and sticky.

But that's not your situation. Any polysulfide caulk should do the job. But get on it, and cure that mold source - then aggressively go after every bit of it in the boat...

[first wind]

Originally Posted by reed1v

O'Day, Cals, and Rangers have this situation. Rivets to hold the deck and hull together(maintain shape) before toe rail bolted on. If you do it over, put larger backing plates behind the toe rail nuts to add strength to the joint. Big job. Big expense if you have a yard do the job.

i have a 1971 cal 27. my deck joint looks entirely different than that.

[Boatyarddog]

Originally Posted by Slamjunk

A rivet. They would have riveted the deck and hull together and then drilled all the holes for the bolts, makes sense. Should I seal it or remove the toe rail and redo everything? It seems there is a leak every 12" on average.


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Hull joint is riveted and sail track and toenail are bolted in.
My Mariner has this type of joint, you really must remove the toerail and hardware to get to the seam between the deck and Hull joint, better yet glass the seam together after removing the toerail.


Sent from SV Cloud Duster

[Schooner Chandlery]

Originally Posted by skipgundlach

Nobody else has tackled this so I'll say it.

But 5200 is more glue than caulk; it's overkill to the job, methinks, and will just make your life more miserable should you have to pull it all up and go at it from the top. If 3M still made 101 I'd use it; their new stuff in the 4000 series (I forget whether 4000 or 4200 off the top of my head), while claiming UV, sucks in the open air; I'll have to redo my toerail after 3 years because it's chalking horribly and in some places pulling out, and in general, if washed, becomes soft and sticky.

But that's not your situation. Any polysulfide caulk should do the job. But get on it, and cure that mold source - then aggressively go after every bit of it in the boat...

You're right about 5200. It also doesn't have sufficient elasticity if used in narrow spaces to always bridge the crack. Consider using a silicone-modified polyurethane instead whenever it's bedding needed rather than glue. Tremco/Sitkaflex to be considered in choice.

[Cheechako]

A lot of boats used 5200 between the deck and hull at the factory. BTW, does anyone sell Polysulphide anymore?

[Schooner Chandlery]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

A lot of boats used 5200 between the deck and hull at the factory. BTW, does anyone sell Polysulphide anymore?

Are they using it as an adhesive? That could make (some) sense. As bedding, not.

[HopCar]

5200 is both a sealant and adhesive and as such is ideal for use in a hull to deck joint. The hull to deck joint is exactly what 3M had in mind when they made it.


Cheechako, Life-Caulk is a polysulfide.

[model 10]

If you don't want to spend forever fixing this, get a Sawzall and whack off the toe rail.