Do I Keep Going or Back Off?

[Chotu]

Some good options here, but I think it’ll be faster to just reorder some flanges and start over on this column. Hopefully the new ones will be made according to the specs and inspected properly before they ship them. Otherwise, I’ll use a rolling pin and ream them out to size.

If I spend half a day on this, it’s too much. It should only take a couple hours to cut a new piece of aluminum tubing, paint the flanges, ream out if necessary, then install.

[MicHughV]

I tend to agree, there is a time/dollar component here...sometimes better to start over again....probably not the first time....nor the last time...that's boat building for you...the price of experience....

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by MicHughV

I tend to agree, there is a time/dollar component here...sometimes better to start over again....probably not the first time....nor the last time...that's boat building for you...the price of experience....

You want to know throwing things out and starting over?

I followed some bad advice to build this boat wood/epoxy at the start. I built half a hull and followed a cheap backyard hillbilly technique for bagging the wood onto a mold. The bag sprung a leak, the leak couldn’t be reached and destroyed half a hull.

Threw it out and started over with proper technique and materials.

[MicHughV]

y'know, I built my own boat, I had zero boatbuilding experience....I barely knew which end of a hammer to hold, had never built anything, yet was planning to take on this project...a 38' sailboat.
Such was my naivety ......prior to starting....I thought I could do it in one year for under $10K.....
three years later and three times the $$, I finally splashed it.....still not 100% complete...

Interestingly, I got two know two other guys building trimarans...they had both been at it for a while before I started...laying next to their boats, were lots of pieces of boats that didn't work...I should paid more attention....

But...looking back, I had a blast....building your own boat has a certain zen quality...you have to be a scrounger.....woodworker...steel worker....dumpster diver...engineer...wing it master...you have to be able to laugh at your own mistakes...you have to know, that you will likely do many things twice...I had a blast....seriously....it was a wonderful time of my life. I wouldn't trade a second of it.

[AKA-None]

Per chance did you try jacking screws between the flanges at all 4bolt holes?

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Chotu

What, do you need pictures of the fn rope?

Do I ever lie?????

You seem to participate in my threads, seem to want to offer advice which seems to be well intentioned, then you call me a liar??

It’s a Dodge RAM 3500 with a running start since the normal pull didn’t work and the tires just spun.

Tomorrow I’ll post a pic of the line just for you.

“ This is just an answer/comment; not interested in arguing or dealing with the trolls ”. You ARE the troll

Your sense of humor is remarkable

Show me where I call you a liar or take back that outrageous accusation.

[BrianGJS]

Here's a trick an old racing engine mechanic taught me. Hope it helps. We had a iron bolt in an aluminum casting. Nothing would budge it. He took a torch and heated the connection then melted paraphan wax into the joint. The trick required leaving it for 15 min. The bolt then turned out without any effort or damage. Not sure if you want to heat your material but this tip may help others with releasing rusted or stuck fittings.

[guyrj33]

I suspect a machine shop could remove the aluminum pipe from the flange for you, especially if you're willing to allow destruction of the pipe.
Then the machine shop could hone or bore the interior of the FRP flange to the correct ID to accept the pipe you're using.

[Lodesman]

Originally Posted by guyrj33

I suspect a machine shop could remove the aluminum pipe from the flange for you, especially if you're willing to allow destruction of the pipe.
Then the machine shop could hone or bore the interior of the FRP flange to the correct ID to accept the pipe you're using.

I suspect you don't need a machine shop for that. Saw the tube off close to the flange then cut the tube length-wise from the inside. One cut should be enough to allow it to be crimped enough to pull it out.

[wholybee]

Originally Posted by Chotu

It didn’t work.

Working it just hand: wouldn’t budge

Sledge hammer: wouldn’t budge.

Using 3/4” dock line to tie it to a utility pole and the hitch on my truck: broke 3/4” dock line and took the pant off the flange.

There is no backing off. Damn it.

Any ideas from here? I even got up a little speed to give it a really good tug with the 3/4” dock line that parted.

Buy all new stuff? I certainly hope not.

Ideas for getting it the rest of the way on?

Also, anyone think this is strong enough to hold my roof in place? Ha ha ha ha. It’s insane.

Take it to a machine shop. A hydraulic press will make short work of it. Either quickly removing the pipe, or busting the whole thing in the attempt. Either way, you won't need to mess with it further. Probably only $20 or so.

[zstine]

you could try to split a pipe that will fit over the AL tube and then use it as a slide hammer. This will certainly bugger up the end of the flanges. The idea to split the flange is not a bad idea, since they aren't engaged all the way you probably only need to split the last few inches... but you may be fighting a loosing battle here.



How are you securing the FRP to the AL? Through bolts? i can't see holes for them. I would think you would want a gap and fill with adhesive to secure the flange to the AL. Remember, these have to take tension right (these are under the main sheet track)? Different material is going to have different thermal expansion... Dragon plate machines groves in this type of interface to allow a thicker resin buildup and less likelihood of adhesive failure due to thermal expansion... IMO, weld on an AL flange, cheap and easy!!

[Scorpius]

Originally Posted by Chotu

It didn’t work.

Working it just hand: wouldn’t budge

Sledge hammer: wouldn’t budge.

Using 3/4” dock line to tie it to a utility pole and the hitch on my truck: broke 3/4” dock line and took the pant off the flange.

There is no backing off. Damn it.

Any ideas from here? I even got up a little speed to give it a really good tug with the 3/4” dock line that parted.

Buy all new stuff? I certainly hope not.

Ideas for getting it the rest of the way on?

Also, anyone think this is strong enough to hold my roof in place? Ha ha ha ha. It’s insane.

I'm surprised the line broke before the flange. Take the whole assembly to a machine shop and, after they stop laughing when you tell them what has been happening they can probably separate the pieces with a big hydraulic press and a puller - or they will break the flange.

[Chotu]

Damn. Should have done the hydraulic press at a machine shop.

The flange company is sending out a new pair so I guess the decision was made by them.

[BruceS]

Maybe this time don't rough up the aluminium so it doesn't bind. Silicone spray or cooking oil might help. Machine shop & do it in one continuous press until required length. Don't pause and take it out to measure it or it'll 'lock' in that position.
Aluminium is bad for that!
Good luck!

[MultiCountryDon]

Wrap the aluminum tube with dry ice.