Visit our Popular Forums

Djarraluda · 26-01-2021, 13:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lodesman

I suspect you don't need a machine shop for that. Saw the tube off close to the flange then cut the tube length-wise from the inside. One cut should be enough to allow it to be crimped enough to pull it out.

I was going to suggest the same thing, but don't cut the tube too close to the flange, leave a bit extra length to grab hold of and allow you to flatten/crimp the tube once cut.

MicHughV · 26-01-2021, 14:03

the above is actually quite a good idea....I had to extract a cutlass bearing from inside a shaft tube that way.....had just enough room to fit the blade from a hacksaw inside, I thought it was going to be the mother of jobs to saw it.....but it went relatively quick and I had that bearing out in no time...good idea !!!

waterman46 · 26-01-2021, 16:44

I assume those flanges don't have an opening at the bottom. Guess the decision has already been made to replace it all, but I would have drilled out the bottom center of the flange with a hole saw, then inserted a pipe or whatever I could find of the right diameter, as a pusher, into the opening to butt against the end of the extrusion. You could strike your pusher with a big sledge hammer and the extrusion would have to go. The hard part would be finding a way to support the flange for this method. Lay the assembly horizontally between a couple of 4x4's butted up against a concrete step or wall?

NorthCoastJoe · 26-01-2021, 17:32

Is there a way to access the end of the tube? If you can I would use a press to push the tube out. A machine shop may be the best answer.

**Madehn** · 26-01-2021, 17:37

quote

"Originally Posted by Chotu View Post
What, do you need pictures of the fn rope?

Do I ever lie?????

You seem to participate in my threads, seem to want to offer advice which seems to be well intentioned, then you call me a liar??

It’s a Dodge RAM 3500 with a running start since the normal pull didn’t work and the tires just spun.

Tomorrow I’ll post a pic of the line just for you.

“ This is just an answer/comment; not interested in arguing or dealing with the trolls ”. You ARE the troll"

Chotu- next trip to the store see if they stock any sense of humor-- if so buy some and keep it handy for the next time things go wrong- if you are going to biuild a boat then stuff is going to happen- that is the downside of doing it yourself and having to learn through experience- the plus side is obviously accomplishing something that few others can make happen-- IMHO and it is just my opinion all of that is not very worthwhile if it changes your personality and you take everything so personally- this forum is full of fun humorous people who take their time to help others- perhaps being a little less spring loaded to the PO mode would be advisable- do the right thing and PM Jedi and tell him sorry. If you don't keep more of a sense of humor this project will be the death of you without epoxy. i hope your new setup works out with the flanges etc- best of luck- what i have learned in my refit- there is never time to do it right the first time- unfortunately it there is always time to do it over

NorthCoastJoe · 26-01-2021, 20:11

Being serious, I would not do the running start with the truck. It is a good way to break your motor mounts, I have done it.

Chotu · 27-01-2021, 00:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by NorthCoastJoe

Being serious, I would not do the running start with the truck. It is a good way to break your motor mounts, I have done it.

Really???

I’m amazed at that. What were you doing at the time? What was the setup?

Out of complete instinct, I put the clutch in a fraction of a second before the rope went fully taught, using only the truck’s momentum.

I was a bit nervous I’d pull my hitch off, but it was fine. There was quite a springy feeling to the 3/4” dock line as it went taught. Then all of a sudden it was WAY to springy (as it tore apart).

It was a pretty soft stop after the running start.

Crazy feeling because if I was slightly off on alignment, the rear end was pulled to the side to fix the alignment when the dock line caught.

rslifkin · 27-01-2021, 05:33

The stretch from using a nylon dock line is probably enough to avoid hurting the hitch. Especially on a 1 ton. The hitch on something that size is meant to take a good bit of force.

Lodesman · 27-01-2021, 07:01

Probably lucky the line parted. I imagine an aluminum pipe propelled by the elastic energy in the line would have shot through your back window like a missile.

Chotu · 27-01-2021, 07:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lodesman

Probably lucky the line parted. I imagine an aluminum pipe propelled by the elastic energy in the line would have shot through your back window like a missile.

That was probably the foremost thing on my mind. LOL. That and if the post was going to stay in the ground. The post is just fine. But, I tied it at ground level of course. Not up at the window level. That would have been suicidal. It never raise more than 6 inches or so off the ground. The post side was at ground level, and the other side was at my hitch level. So it even if it broke and came my way, all it could do is hit the hitch.

NorthCoastJoe · 27-01-2021, 12:50

I was pulling stumps, then moved up to doing it with a tractor the Pop sometimes would jam the carb float. I have recently gotten a backhoe, much easier on the body too.

If you can get a press and open up the end that should do it. But without that, I would cut it close and split the tube like you would a cutlass bearing. Sounds like the tube gets trashed no matter how you do it.

Good luck.

NorthCoastJoe · 27-01-2021, 12:53

Forgot to mention, whenever you do a pull like that throw a blanket over the line ( or chain ) it slows it down a lot if things go flying. ( life jackets clipped on work too )

Chotu · 27-01-2021, 13:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by NorthCoastJoe

Forgot to mention, whenever you do a pull like that throw a blanket over the line ( or chain ) it slows it down a lot if things go flying. ( life jackets clipped on work too )

Hey, that’s a really good tip. There are situations” that are dangerous in the same way on a boat. Tows and things like that.

This is a major structural component of the boat, so the answer was a do over. I got new materials and will make a new one

zstine · 27-01-2021, 13:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chotu

I’m in an awkward spot.

...
The one on the left. It slid right in after sanding out the ID of the bases by a tiny amount. In fact, one is loose enough it needs the tape holding it or it’ll slide down.

So Chotu, what method are you using to hold the tube inside the flange when the support is under tension / being pulled apart?