Dropping my Keel

[Beneteausailor]

So, during last bottom cleaning I found out there was a fair bit of rust on the keel (cast iron) and significant work seems to be in order. From the video it appears there is some blistering near the seam so I am considering dropping the keel depending on how it looks after it's gotten its first sandblasting. I was wondering if anyone has had experience with, and hopefully recommendations for, any yards dropping a keel in the Northeast?

Thanks!

[Pete7]

That sounds a bit drastic. By all means have the keel blasted with your choice of medium, glass, coconut, slurry etc. Sand went out years ago due to the risk of siiicosis.

It will probably flash rust afterwards, that's fine wash and dry the keel to remove any salts in the iron and then rust killer etc. You will need to dig out the grove between the keel and the hull and then refill with a good sealant. Sikaflex, CT1 etc.

Post some photos and we will offer an opinion.

This recent thread might be worth a read.

https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...rk-284476.html

[capt jgw]

I've done it on my 1969 Columbia 36, it was a pretty big job. It was necessary as the keel bolts were corroded, in fact one broke off when I tried to tighten it. The bedding between hull and keel had failed allowing water in and corroding the bolts.
If the bedding and bolts are in good shape there's no reason to drop the keel. I believe in a Beneteau the bolts can be unscrewed and inspected, and if any break off you know you need to drop. If after hauling out did you notice water seeping out of the joint? If not and the bolts look good and came out dry the bedding is likely good as well. With a lead keel rusty water seeping out is a really bad sign as the only things in there that can rust are the bolts. With an iron keel you'll get rust regardless so it's not an indicator.
I did mine in Michigan so I can't help with a yard recommendation but if you're DIYing the work any place with a Travel Lift can lift the hull off the keel once you've removed the bolts. Build a frame around the keel first so it doesn't tip over.

[more]

Originally Posted by Beneteausailor

So, during last bottom cleaning I found out there was a fair bit of rust on the keel (cast iron) and significant work seems to be in order. From the video it appears there is some blistering near the seam so I am considering dropping the keel depending on how it looks after it's gotten its first sandblasting. I was wondering if anyone has had experience with, and hopefully recommendations for, any yards dropping a keel in the Northeast?

Thanks!

Cast iron keel start rust in factory maybe after cool down to room temperature,under 20 second.

Put paint removal 4-5 kg + foil over. high pressure washer clean,dry on touch start sand with 40 grit 230mm and angel grinder.
https://www.amazon.com/Discs-Sanding.../dp/B07L33HVG1
if bolt rust you see line deep rust,water.

high pressure wash, dry on touch. put rust removal what you have.
zinc rich primer,after this epoxy primer and antifouling

if you want more durable solution

after epoxy primer ,epoxy filer west sistem. epoxy primer and primecoin for aluminium boat and polish by instruction. or hempel silicone or similar.

i try last year 1 small portion with propeler spry andwork good,before 2 weeks i dive to clean propeler and i see this 20x20 patch is totaly clean.

and off course need zinc anode 1-2 kg on keel

[Beneteausailor]

Originally Posted by Pete7

That sounds a bit drastic. By all means have the keel blasted with your choice of medium, glass, coconut, slurry etc. Sand went out years ago due to the risk of siiicosis.
https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...rk-284476.html

I'm not planning on a drop, but I don't want to start blasting and then go looking for references.

I'm using "sand blasting" to refer to any media blasting. Practically I'd use a something like soda to just get everything off before attacking the rust with an abrasive. Also, I appreciate you bringing up the safety issues, but for better or worse I have lots of experience dealing with fine particulate hazards and PPE.

Originally Posted by Pete7

It will probably flash rust afterwards, that's fine wash and dry the keel to remove any salts in the iron and then rust killer etc. You will need to dig out the grove between the keel and the hull and then refill with a good sealant. Sikaflex, CT1 etc.
https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...rk-284476.html

It will flash rust very quickly. I was planning on an additional blasting just prior to application of what I plan to apply. Normally when I've dealt with cast iron the process has been to remove upper layer and immediately coat it.

Originally Posted by Pete7

Post some photos and we will offer an opinion.
https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...rk-284476.html

My concern is what I will find when removing the sealant. I'm posting the shots that concern me. The rest of the keel has spots all over. I can post video if that's helpful.

Originally Posted by Pete7

This recent thread might be worth a read.
https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...rk-284476.html

[Beneteausailor]

Originally Posted by capt jgw

I've done it on my 1969 Columbia 36, it was a pretty big job. It was necessary as the keel bolts were corroded, in fact one broke off when I tried to tighten it. The bedding between hull and keel had failed allowing water in and corroding the bolts.
If the bedding and bolts are in good shape there's no reason to drop the keel. I believe in a Beneteau the bolts can be unscrewed and inspected, and if any break off you know you need to drop. If after hauling out did you notice water seeping out of the joint? If not and the bolts look good and came out dry the bedding is likely good as well. With a lead keel rusty water seeping out is a really bad sign as the only things in there that can rust are the bolts. With an iron keel you'll get rust regardless so it's not an indicator.
I did mine in Michigan so I can't help with a yard recommendation but if you're DIYing the work any place with a Travel Lift can lift the hull off the keel once you've removed the bolts. Build a frame around the keel first so it doesn't tip over.

Yes, with the Benes you do appear to be able to do that. Doing a bit of research on that atm. Lead and cast iron have their positives and negatives (as does every material), but cast iron sure does like to rust. I've learned a lot on this between work and maintaining cast iron woodworking equipment. Sadly, none of my favorite products for that equipment works when salt and/or water are involved.

[kenbo]

I can't make a yard recommendation for your location. What I have used, successfully in my opinion, is soda blast. wash the CI with Dawn and lots of fresh water with a stiff brush, then an Ospho treatment. After brushing off the dried Ospho dust apply a coat of epoxy primer, fair with epoxy fairing compound and bottom paint.

[Kello]

Rusty keel is harmless and very different than rusty keel bolts caused by seam leaks. Like it or not, and notwithstanding accidents such as running aground, keel bolts are a regular (15 – 20 yrs.) maintenance item, and some mfrs. take this into account and make it an “easy” job. Contact Beneteau, or your Owners Group if there is one, to see about renewing your boat’s keel bolts.

If your boat has been designed for this, dropping the keel and renewing the bolts (and sealant) will be “relatively easy” And it might be that the bolts are still ok, just the sealant has started leaking recently, so it is very important to renew it!

Do some research first, two good books I know of are “Metal Corrosion in Boats” by Nigel Warren, and “The Boatowner’s Guide to Corrosion” by Everett Collier.

This isn’t a job I would trust any yard I’ve spent time at to do without knowledgeable supervision, there have been many.

If the seam is leaking the sooner you drop the keel and reseal it the better, if the leak is recent and the keel hasn’t had any serious groundings then probably no need to renew the bolts at this time, you will discover this when you drop the keel.

If it is just a rusty iron keel, it isn’t pretty, but it isn’t devastating either.

[Beneteausailor]

Originally Posted by Kello

Rusty keel is harmless and very different than rusty keel bolts caused by seam leaks. Like it or not, and notwithstanding accidents such as running aground, keel bolts are a regular (15 – 20 yrs.) maintenance item, and some mfrs. take this into account and make it an “easy” job. Contact Beneteau, or your Owners Group if there is one, to see about renewing your boat’s keel bolts.

I've already reached out. From my experiences in the past they are pretty good with tech support, but not fast. Not that I'm rushing this.

Originally Posted by Kello

If your boat has been designed for this, dropping the keel and renewing the bolts (and sealant) will be “relatively easy” And it might be that the bolts are still ok, just the sealant has started leaking recently, so it is very important to renew it!

Thankfully, the joint and the bilge are bone dry. The only liquid I've ever had accumulate in the bilge has been the result of condensation or due to my cleaning it. Again, I'm reaching out to them.

Originally Posted by Kello

Do some research first, two good books I know of are “Metal Corrosion in Boats” by Nigel Warren, and “The Boatowner’s Guide to Corrosion” by Everett Collier.

In the amazon queue.

Originally Posted by Kello

This isn’t a job I would trust any yard I’ve spent time at to do without knowledgeable supervision, there have been many.

Yep, I'm expecting to have to be there 24/7 (especially if I end up doing the work.) I learned that the hard way with a couple of early projects where I trusted certain knowledgable sailors about certain contractors. Hell, the first guy I hired who came well recommended by everybody drilled a hole through my transom by accident.

Originally Posted by Kello

If it is just a rusty iron keel, it isn’t pretty, but it isn’t devastating either.

Thankfully, that appears to be what it is. I've just learned the hard way normally to to take care of things early and well except for when it is a bad idea. Well, maybe not bad idea just overkill. I'm kind of known for that.

Thanks you for the book recommendations!

[barnakiel]

The local boatyard here now drops keels on boats like Bene and Bava on a regular basis. It looks quite simple imho. But you pay for the time you are in the lift. So plan all repairs for very dry days to minimise this part. (cost).


b.

[capt jgw]

I did mine around 10 years ago. I'm in Michigan where all boats get hauled out every winter so that was not an additional charge, I had to pay it anyway. They hauled and blocked the boat, then I braced the keel and pulled the bolts. They came back with the Travel Lift, picked the hull up and reblocked in another location. I did all my work and when ready they came back and set the hull back on the keel and blocked it again. Cost me an additional $250 as I recall. The guys had never seen it done before so they were interested, that might have saved me a little.