Epoxalypse now 1708 or 1700 clarifaction

[Eastward ho 24]

I guess I'll be adding to the plethora of threads across all forums about the use of 1708 or 1700 with epoxy... I'm just about to pull the trigger and start the record of my coach roof, fore deck, and catwalks on my de32. Using m80 1/2" corecell plain foam With westsystem epoxy. I was going to use 1708 which I have used in the past 2 yrs with good results ( but not time tested). I have previously read how the Matt backing on the 1708 is useless ,wasteful and added weight. I went ahead and used it any way since I wasn't concerned with waste for sma repairs. Now I'm onto a bigggggger job and epoxy isn't cheap so.. I just recently saw a boatworks today video where Andy(?)( Awsome videos I may add). Showd what and why epoxy and Matt doesnt mix properly ( but I assume to us novices untrained eyes wouldn't have noticed) because of the binders. So after seeing that got into the tons of conversations on the topic and from what I've gathered;
As far as c.s.m is concerned there is some that's specifically epoxy compatible and will totally wet out and turn clear with epoxy. Then there some that isn't And will wet out somewhat get stiff and probably do the trick but isn't considered proper. And the binder for the non compatible c.s.m is the reason it won't wet out. Thanks.boatworks today for another awsome video.
However my question pertains to the mat that's stitched to 1708. From my understanding the mat on the 1708 is epoxy compatible( no binder). Now I don't know if that pertains to all 1708 ( but I will definitely inquire with the vendor and test).
That being said I now have gotten the impression the mat is unnecessary in a lay up ( using epoxy)if I were to use 1708 only, it'll just be soaking up resin and wasting layer that could be otherwise be used for biaxail which would be stronger in it's place. However the mat is recommend as a first layer so it'll adheare to the substrate better then the biaxail. Then lay up will be done with 1700( no mat) after the initial layer of 1708(matt down).
So the question basically is; as far as 1708 is concerned using epoxy in a lay up ( not just one layer) is it really useless and better to use layers of 1700 in it place? And is the mat in 1708 usually epoxy compatible?
Seems to be a often visited topic but I'm thinking how and where the glass is being used makes the difference so a blanket statement would not clarify.



My process is " gonna " be;
Working from the top of the deck (outside the boat) remove outer skin, remove old core,sand the bottom skin flat. Lay one layer of 1708 mat side down and one mat side up (for added strength and to get a layer of csm for my foam to sit on), paint surface with unthickend epoxy to fill small holes etc then notch trowell a layer of thickened epoxy place foam into epoxy, weight it all down and take a break.
For the top skin I'll paint unthickend epoxy to fill voids etc. lay a layer of 1708 Matt side down, then either lay 5 or 6 layers of 1700 or 1708 depending on what I decide. Finish with a layer or 2 of veil, sand close then kiwogrip to hide what's left after I give up sanding..

p.s I haven't used triaxail but I figure more layers of glass would be stronger ie; more layers of the same thickness of 1700 or 1708 would be better then triaxail.
Epoxalypse now!