Filling transom holes

[StevenMD]

Hey everyone, my first post here. I just purchased a Tartan 30. The inboard needs a rebuild, and the PO slapped on a janky outboard bracket to get around in the meantime. It's pretty low on the reverse transom (like pretty close to waterline, as it's not a lifting bracket). Question is: how would you all suggest plugging those four bolt holes when I remove the bracket? When I replaced an outboard bracket on a previous boat I sealed the fittings with 3M UV4000 and that held up great. So I figure I could put bolts in the holes, which would be holding nothing, but are sealed in the same way, and that would function...but I'd welcome a more elegant solution. Appreciate any ideas. Thanks.

[Spot]

Welcome to the forum.
The transom is a striking feature on those Tartans.

I would try to make the holes disappear rather than an old bolt and goop solution. Check and remove any rotten core, replace with good core, bevel and layer in cloth and resin to fill. After that, fairing compound and paint or gel coat to suit. No one would fault you if the inside patch was not as beveled and fair as the outside one.

Section diagram and a pic of the kid's 14-footer after cloth and resin and first layer of fairing. The fairing is just tinted so I can see it, it is not a talc-filled automotive type.

[Rumrace]

Ditto but if available I try to taper from the inside only.
Micro balloons and lots and zero polyester only epoxy and I’m sure Systems West is my choice. As far as throughhull being closed up I’ve 3D printed my throughhulls on a runabout and printed two blanked out throughhulls for a pal. I had a cork in one for years in the macerator port.
Strip any wax off around the wounds before you proceed.

[Cheechako]

Keep the bracket to store your dingy motor on! If too low, replace it with an adjustable one and reuse the holes.