Fixing Stripped Screws in Wood

[CaptainJohn49]

I’ve used match sticks if nothing else is around but I prefer to use wood dowels . I buy a couple in different diameters and keep them in my tool box. When needed I put a drop of waterproof wood glue on the end and shove it in the hole. Then I cut it with a pair of dikes and pound it home with a hammer. I trim off any excess with a knife. I like dowels because the wood is much firmer. Usually poplar. I usually drill a new pilot hole before starting the screw. This repair is as good or better than the original and can be used for secure mountings.

[wrwakefield]

Another variation of the matchstick fix is to use bamboo skewers [the ones for cooking.]

They are cheap, available in several diameters, much stronger than end grain soft wood, and have many other uses onboard...

FWIW

Cheers! Bill

[soerencarlsen]

I have used a gluegun works fine and cools quite fast. but it is hot so take caution.

[Rough Magic]

Ditto the toothpick/waterproof glue. Add: bronze/copper wool stuffed in the hole with a drop of wood glue, then immediately put in the screw.

[Kalinowski]

Quick and easy. Stick a plastic wire tie in the hole. Double it over if necessary. Screw in the fastener and trim off the excess. This holds tightly and can be easily removed if ever necessary. Works for me!

[nhschneider]

I've had varying levels of success using wood fillers (eg, matches, golf tees, etc) when trying to repair a stripped-out screw hole in wood. Sometimes I can get away with using a longer and/or bigger diameter screw but sometimes that doesn't even work.



Here's the process that I've had the most luck with:


1. Using a small, round burr on a die grinder (a Dremel-like tool would work fine, maybe even better), I enlarge the stripped out hole so that it looks bowl-shaped, that is, the sides aren't straight but rather curve inwards towards the center of the hole.


2. I put several drops of penetrating epoxy in the hole and let it cure overnight.


3. I fill the hole with a two-part epoxy (like West Systems) that has enough colloidal filler so that it will just pour and let that cure overnight.


4. Drill out the epoxy and reassemble.


Fair winds and calm seas.

[fatherchronica]

We are not your friends, we are retired framing contractors whose thunder was stolen, and our trade secrets. Now there is no reason to try and corner the market with our construction grade toothpicks we have been working on since 1970.

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by fallingeggs

I have a few non-structural screws in wood that are stripped. Wondering how people fix this. I could inject some epoxy and drill out, but that seems overkill for simple trim pieces or latches. Plus, epoxy could get messy with some of the upside down work (think screws holding up headliner trim). Is wood glue too weak? Just go with a thicker screw?

Non structural to hold up a head liner. Buy a box of wooden matches and some Elmer's glue.

[jmschmidt]

You got good responses here from everyone. I've used splinters, tooth picks (which are made of hard woods) chopsticks, matches, etc. all with a one-part waterproof wood glue. For stripped out woodscrew holes more that 1/8 inch or so I glue in the above wooden items, then re-drill with a precision bit (Forestner) designed for the installation of teak plugs (the smallest diameter that will cover the problem). I have a selection of plug cutters and make teak plugs from scrap teak by the hundreds. A lot cheaper than West Marine. I found that teak, being a mildly hard wood, works best and it will give a nice tight seal that can be varnished or paint over.

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by Cadence

Non structural to hold up a head liner. Buy a box of wooden matches and some Elmer's glue.

Or use a plastic insert I'm guessing red. Screwing with epoxy and such seems like overkill at best. JMHO

[fallingeggs]

Thanks all. Never even considered shoving sticks in the holes. Will be on the lookout for correctly sized toothpicks or the like.

[Mike Banks]

Get a small pack of 5-minute ARALDITE--I use it all the time.

Also I always have on board bamboo skewers. I buy the big fat ones as well as the 3mm ones. No wax on 'em, like there is on matches--so they glue better and make excellent dowels for making drawers, stitch and glue joints that can be planed--anything of wood at all and they are STRONG. If there is any rot around the screw hole, drill it cleanly. If there is only ONE screw visible, one can simply countersink the new hole and use a larger stainless screw. If it has to match existing visible screws--then:-

Put a little mixed Araldite on a small piece of bamboo skewer dowel and push it into the hole. Do it again, up to three times is preferable, but if the hole is small one or two will do. It will set while you make a cup of tea or coffee. Lets face it--after all that work you need a break.

Using a sharp knife or chisel, cut off the dowels level with the surface of the timber. Drill a hole the same size as was used for the original screw. Take a countersink bit and match the screw head profile for depth of countersinking.

Take a plain wax candle and scrape the screw across the base of it. This will prevent the screw from ripping out your newly glued packing. Replace screw--

Reward yourself appropriately.

[Dave_S]

I have found match sticks are a bit dodgy. The matches screw around in the hole or push the screw to one side and it doesn't align with the countersink or the match falls out next time the screw comes out.

Use dowels, drill a tight hole, cut the dowel to length, smear a little Araldite on the dowel, tap it in flush, allow to dry, re-drill pilot hole, and refit screw. Job done properly with some job satisfaction, you know you want to :-)

[Falbala60]

Easy ... fill the hole with a Golf Tee of lot of hard wood tooth-picks ... and screw back.
I always have golf tee with me ... Ha Ha

[PuttingDoctor]

Originally Posted by jmschmidt

You got good responses here from everyone. I've used splinters, tooth picks (which are made of hard woods) chopsticks, matches, etc. all with a one-part waterproof wood glue. For stripped out woodscrew holes more that 1/8 inch or so I glue in the above wooden items, then re-drill with a precision bit (Forestner) designed for the installation of teak plugs (the smallest diameter that will cover the problem). I have a selection of plug cutters and make teak plugs from scrap teak by the hundreds. A lot cheaper than West Marine. I found that teak, being a mildly hard wood, works best and it will give a nice tight seal that can be varnished or paint over.

Finally.... 🙄 I read all the posts through and was getting ready to suggest the Forstner bit solution. I did this on my rub rail project. I agree with filling small non-load screws with epoxy and or toothpicks but appreciate doing the job properly for the other.