Fixing Stripped Screws in Wood

[sailorladd]

Yes, ideally a hardwood dowel and glue is good, but not always available when you needs them!

[Buzzman]

Keep short off-cuts from teak decking or similar materials. I usually have meranti off-cuts lying around. Cut them across the grain in lengths 1" to 3".

Then using a chisel cut off pieces (going with the grain) the thickness you need and whittle into closer shape. Dip in pva glue (or epoxy if you have it) and tap / hammer into hole. Chisel off any excess flush with surface. Re-drill and re-screw.

The matchstick trick is an old carpenter's trick, as said previously - and double-thanks for revealing our 'trade secrets'..!! lol

Another is wooden / bamboo chopsticks, for the larger holes.

If the hole to be 'plugged' is in a water-splashed area you should use a wateproof glue or epoxy. Wood plugs glued in with epoxy will not come out. The wood will tear first.

Do not use plastic cable ties or rawl plugs. The former should be considered a 'temporary quick fix' only and should be properly repaired asap.

Rawl plugs are designed for use in masonry walls where their fluted outer surface grips the rough surface of the masonry - and even then, with enough force, they can be removed.

Unscrew a screw (in a rawl plug) enough to get a claw hammer's head under the screw head and lever the plug and screw right out of the wall.

The hold things up only because force is usually in shear, vertically downwards, thanks ot gravity. But apply force horizontally and you can easily break the grip the rawl plug has on the masonry around it.

As to to fibreglass holes once worn out, such as deck fittings on dinghies, a small piece of glass fabric attached to the underside, even a couple of layers douubled over and held in place with a much large piece of plastic held on with masking tape, will do the trick.

I've also heard of people using cut up old circuit boards for backing pads - or at least the fibreglass sheeting used for circuit boards.

Otherwise, as has been suggested, small pieces of matt or fabric mixed with epoxy and forced into the hole, then plastic-wrapped block over and the block wedged or taped in place.

if something comes loose, and the boat is moving about, then a toothpick and a screwdriver are probably the quickest, easiest 'temp solution' until a proper repair can be attempted in port or when the boat is moving about less vigorously.

[Pigpen Pete]

Partly drill out the hole and wipe some grease on the thread of the new screw. Dab epoxy bog into the hole and onto the screw thread. Drive the screw in , if necessary tape it in place till cured.
This gives a strong thread in the wood and the grease acts as a release agent to remove the screw as required.