G-Flex for teak caulking?

[aajora]

I know.. sounds like a bad idea, but hear me out.

I have 2” wide by 1/4” teak slats with 1/4” gap between all slats epoxied down to the cockpit (no screws) thats held up well over 5 years. My problem is the caulking, I’ve tried polysulfide (boatlife) and TDS (teak decking systems) and get no more than 2 years before separation. I lay nonstick tape on the bottom of the groove so theres only adhesion on two sides (teak slats).

Here I am cutting out the most recent caulking, boatlife polysulfide and am thinking an elastic epoxy with black tint in it like G-Flex…

This could be a disaster as removal would surely ruin the teak if it does fail…

I believe the problem is no bimini and dodger so exposure to sun and rain is constant (live in pacific northwest) so maybe covering my cockpit would help caulking last longer.

Another thought is if the g-flex (or similar product) loses adhesion I could dribble a bit more in the crack resealing it…

I read about this many years ago but cannot find the article or follow up.

Thanks fellow cruisers!

[markxengineerin]

I am also disappointed with TDS- it is falling off the teak after less than a year. I think the issue might be the moisture level of the wood- it's hard to get it as dry as they want in some climates before application.

I don't know how to answer your question, but G Flex can be applied underwater, so at least that part is ok. I would worry about UV exposure. I think all epoxy needs to be protected by paint.

[jcapo]

I'm almost finished removing my teak deck that was re-caulked with TDS starboard side in 2005 or so and port side a few years later. Many planks were also replaced.

All of the TDS caulk was still well adhered 20+ years later. Maybe TDS has changed the recipe since then.

I re-caulked in South Florida with plenty of heat and humidity.

[SailingHarmonie]

Epoxy is not UV stable. Use it in an upward facing horizontal surface and you will very quickly discover exactly how unsuited to this it is. Not recommended.

If you are only getting a year or two from polysulfide, it is not being installed correctly. Be very rigorous with your prep. You have to ask yourself, why am I having this problem but other boats do not?

[aajora]

appreciate your responses. i have meticulously prepped to an OCD level… i was thinking 1/4” thick slats may be the problem… too much movement, not enough surface area to adhere.

the black dye (graphite?) in the epoxy il thought the black dyr would stabilize the UV problem, perhaps not.

so far, i’m going to use TDS. would like more responses nay sayers welcome.

CAN A UV STABILIZED FLEXIBLE EPOXY WORK AS TEAK CAULKING?

[Bowdrie]

Read the Gougeon brothers' book.
They have a section on using epoxy for successful work on teak decking.
Unfortunately, the best of the Polysulfides for your applications are no longer produced, that was the Detco-Grove 2-part Polysulfide.
IIRC, Boatlife still makes a pourable 2-part Polysulfide, (priming may be necessary, I've forgotten the particulars of it).

[thinwater]

All other factors aside, G-Flex is even less UV resistant than most epoxies. You will regret this within a season.


I've been very happy with TDS.

[phorvati]

Its not TDS. 1/4" might be a lot. I think mine is 1/8" or 3/16". But everywhere i replaced caulking, TDS held well. Gflex will fail under the sun. I tried it on small cauges, and holes.