Galley cupboards

[beau]

Can you use standard household kitchen cupboards when fitting out a boat.
I was concerned about the "chipboard" used under the melamine lining. However I have seen many production boats which appear to be of this type of material. Any comments?

[mudnut]

Originally Posted by beau

Can you use standard household kitchen cupboards when fitting out a boat.
I was concerned about the "chipboard" used under the melamine lining. However I have seen many production boats which appear to be of this type of material. Any comments?

G'day Beau,never heard of Marine grade chipboard,maybe there is such a thing but I carn't recall.Lots of home kitchens have chipboard behind the various coverings that hide it but really,it's a totally different enviroment to onboard a boat.Moisture and chip board don't mix.

Being in QLD you would know about "Qld Pine"Shop,totally pine cuboards and such.I would rather that type of galley fit out to some cheapboard flat-pak landlubbers kitchen.Real wood,real joining strength.Chipboard would end up costing you further down the track.Hey,it falls apart on land,enough said.Don't forget the drought and leave room on the boat for a water tank .Mudnut.

[SkiprJohn]

Aloha Beau,
I live in a land of high humidity with over 120 inches (about 3 meters) of rain a year. Chipboard cupboards in the kitchens here don't last more than a year without swelling and warping. I would never consider putting them on a boat.
JohnL

[Alan Wheeler]

Leaving the water/chipboard debate out of it, The wieght woudl be of a major concern. You don't need/want the weight. Use light timber or even ply. Chipboard has no place on a boat.

[beau]

Thanks guys for good advise.

I have all the aluminium,panels cut ready to go, but I fell down the stair well of a "bloody monohull" and cracked a couple of ribs, so construction will be delayed a couple of weeks.

[Boracay]

... I would urge you to scribe water and buttock lines (horizontal and vertical "slices") permanently on the frames. Scribe the frame number on each frame where it can be seen after plating. This will make your fitting out quicker, easier and more accurate.

You could also drill as many mounting holes as possible in frames before erection. If you do this in the overhead stringers as well you will save hours of convoluted "exercise". Use a drill press.

I have found the tricky bit in fitting out to be getting the longitudinal base mounts of the interior cabinetry right. If you can do this before plating it will make the whole job go much faster.

All frames and longitudinals need limber holes and placement so that all interior water drains freely to the bilge. This is best done when making the frames and installing the longitudinals (i.e. before plating).

If you weld mounts for the cabin sole onto the frames before erection then you will be able to put cheap ply down as a working area (use good thick stuff). It is very easy to trip and fall down inside a boat shell and there are lots of sharp edges everywhere. It may be possible to weld longidudinal mounts for the interior cabinetry between the sole mounts before plating. Don't forget to drill bolt holes at this time.

My woodworking skill are well below what I would like so I have gone with Bunning's ply (NZ "Ecoply", "A" bond with hoop? pine face veneer) and structural pine noggins, saturated with epoxy where necessary. Many may sneer but I feel much better when I have to rip something out and do it again, my bank account really notices the difference and I am happy to do a quick job.

If you have a look at my blog you will see what I have done. Artistic awards gratefully accepted.

Bunnings will cut to size for a modest fee. This means that you always have good straight edges at right angles to each other to work with (and I can get the bits to fit in my car).

I would urge you to think carefully at this stage as it is possible to get a hull to go together very quickly but to then be faced with years of difficult fitting out.