Gap filling in unfinished exterior teak

[skipgundlach]

We have several spots where we have used epoxy fairing compound (AdTech) to fill previous rotted spots on some of our exterior teak, which we leave natural.

Some of this has apparently not done well with UV exposure.

What UV stable filler would be appropriate for unfinished exterior teak, suitable to sanding to the existing shape, whatever that might be?

Thanks.

L8R

Skip

[Terra Nova]

Use real teak, not epoxy filler.

[skipgundlach]

Originally Posted by Terra Nova

Use real teak, not epoxy filler.

I will not be able to remove and scarf, even if I did have the proper tools and skills.

How otherwise would I use real teak, in the event R&R/scarf/glue isn't what you meant? I do have powdered teak aboard.

[Terra Nova]

If you have neither the tools nor the skills, you'll need to either acquire and learn or hire someone who does. The rotten wood is cutout and replaced with a carefully fitted new piece of wood, not epoxy filler or "powdered teak".

[skipgundlach]

OK, let's try this again.

I want to put some relatively thick (viscous), teak-colored stuff in some small, non-structural spaces below the rest of the surrounding surface(s) on a few places in unfinished teak topsides after I remove any loose or soft material and both sand smooth (and vacuum and blow to remove the product of sanding) and acetone-wipe in those spaces under said surfaces.

What substrate (not the teak dust which makes the color teak-ish, but the medium into which the teak dust is mixed) will hold up to UV when it cures and is sanded to shape?

[Terra Nova]

Unsubscribed.

[MartinR]

Originally Posted by skipgundlach

OK, let's try this again.

I want to put some relatively thick (viscous), teak-colored stuff in some small, non-structural spaces below the rest of the surrounding surface(s) on a few places in unfinished teak topsides after I remove any loose or soft material and both sand smooth (and vacuum and blow to remove the product of sanding) and acetone-wipe in those spaces under said surfaces.

What substrate (not the teak dust which makes the color teak-ish, but the medium into which the teak dust is mixed) will hold up to UV when it cures and is sanded to shape?

Nothing!

[ArmyDaveNY]

Epoxy needs to be varnished or painted in order to protect it from UV. If you don't it will be destroyed by the sun.

[skipgundlach]

Originally Posted by MartinR

Nothing!

Ah. So, a marketing development opportunity, I presume, as there are numerous small places on surface teak which might so benefit, absent painting over.

Dings, ex-screw/bolt holes and other minor surface defects come to mind.

Or is the consensus among those who deal with teak that, e.g., when you no longer want a cleat, say, in whatever place it was, and you're left with two (e.g.) small holes, you must either cut out and scarf-in-place a replacement chunk, or remove (assuming it's possible to do so without destruction) the entire piece of teak in which the holes reside, in order to properly fix it in place to do the fancy saw-and-knife work needed to properly scarf in another piece, and then replace said original piece?

I DO have some exposure to scarfing, but only on significant (not sub-inch portions) chunks of (very irregularly shaped) toe rail, seen in the attached pix. The applications I'm referring to are small but irregular...

[sailor_ed]

Maybe some more inf/photos would get you some ideas on doing a proper repair compatible with your skills.

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by Terra Nova

Unsubscribed.

Sorry, but could someone explain what a post like this accomplishes?

Or is it just to express an opinion, like "I'm outta here!"

?

[skipgundlach]

Originally Posted by sailor_ed

Maybe some more inf/photos would get you some ideas on doing a proper repair compatible with your skills.

It's so small that I haven't done any pix of it yet - what you see/saw was stuff I haven't even put up on my gallery yet, let alone pix of the subject areas.

This is an example of a prior instance:

Pictures: Flying Pig Refit 2011-2012/Platform Repair

[skipgundlach]

Originally Posted by john61ct

Sorry, but could someone explain what a post like this accomplishes?

Or is it just to express an opinion, like "I'm outta here!"

?

It's the equivalent of "I'm taking my ball"

[Copacabana]

Originally Posted by skipgundlach

We have several spots where we have used epoxy fairing compound (AdTech) to fill previous rotted spots on some of our exterior teak, which we leave natural.

Some of this has apparently not done well with UV exposure.

What UV stable filler would be appropriate for unfinished exterior teak, suitable to sanding to the existing shape, whatever that might be?

Thanks.

L8R

Skip

Skip, the best option is relacing the rotten part with new teak. Can you cut out the rotten part in such a shape that a new piece can fit in tightly?

Second option would be to make up a thick paste of teak dust and epoxy to fill it. This will work for a while (years?) if you cover it with a UV finish (varnish, Cetol etc.).

I wonder if polyester resin and teak dust could work here, given its better UV protection...

[ZULU40]

Originally Posted by skipgundlach

It's so small that I haven't done any pix of it yet - what you see/saw was stuff I haven't even put up on my gallery yet, let alone pix of the subject areas.

This is an example of a prior instance:

Pictures: Flying Pig Refit 2011-2012/Platform Repair

I dont know about your rot and scarf, never had to repair that yet and there isnt enough information to operate with
I think what happens there is you have to mitre join fresh teak in situ, or remove it and workshop it

but the rest is kinda normal for teak that has nil maintenance and in need of oiling. Sand it back and get at it. Yes if you let it go it gets hard ..