greenhorn bottom job questions

[Scrimshaw4]

Sailing in the Chesapeake is in both salt and brackish water. Traditional salt water ablatives work fine. I wouldn't worry about the fresh ( brackish) water. Wet scrub down with a 3M pad also works in lieu of sanding with ablatives. If using multiple zincs, remember you can't, mix aluminum and zinc. Zinc is fine for your environment. What are you doing to protect your prop? Any thru hulls should have the walls of the hole sealed before installing the fitting. JMHO

[sailingchiro]

Of course, after the yard power washes it, I immediately scrape the barnicles off. If not scraped, they become impossible to remove after they dry.
I use a coarse/medium drywall sand sponge while it is raining. I put on my swimming suit and flip flops. The rain washes the sanded paint off and takes very little time (45 minutes, it is a catamaran). If it isn't raining, then must use bucket of water. I also put vaseline in my thru hulls and work them back and forth many times. Especially the 2". Check thruhulls for corrosion, wiggle them to check for looseness.
Then I polish the topside and wax. Repair any dock rash from my lack of judgment.
Repair any blisters (usually none) then barrier coat the bare areas twice.
Then 3 coats at water line and two coats the rest. Change the zinc.
Usually back in the water in 2-3 days.

[NorthernMac]

Update

So good news I didn’t see any blisters, nor did a few of the contractors in the yard who I asked to give it a quick one over

That said, I did notice this, doesn’t feel soft or anything, but that little drip which appeared, seemed acidic, I cleaned and irrigated, next coat and appeared again.

Thoughts?

[keepondancin]

If the yard allows dry sanding, get a pole sander like spacklers and painters use, can hit most of the bottom with it, and you can keep you distance, you aren't directly under the area being sanded. I used Micron WA, the water based product, and I am very pleased with the results in salt water. Going for my third season, came out pretty clean two years, just normal crud, no growth.

[NorthernMac]

Originally Posted by keepondancin

If the yard allows dry sanding, get a pole sander like spacklers and painters use, can hit most of the bottom with it, and you can keep you distance, you aren't directly under the area being sanded. I used Micron WA, the water based product, and I am very pleased with the results in salt water. Going for my third season, came out pretty clean two years, just normal crud, no growth.

Already hit the whole bottom with 60/80 grit on a power vac sander, then did a scrub with dawn and water, rinse over and over, dry and micron CSC.

[Pete7]

Judging by the photos I think its already been painted.

Pete

[NorthernMac]

Originally Posted by Pete7

Judging by the photos I think its already been painted.

Pete

Yup the whole boat was sanded, all imperfections removed, even had a few guys give it a one over too before paint, that photo is coat 2

Any thoughts on that drip like thing?

[OloteleMtn]

I think it is suspect; i would be inclined to sand that out and inspect the area for a blister.

[NorthernMac]

Originally Posted by OloteleMtn

I think it is suspect; i would be inclined to sand that out and inspect the area for a blister.

What type of tool would be best used for this exploratory inspection?

[Pete7]

Me I would use a dremel and an angle grinder (gently).

Pete

[OloteleMtn]

^that, also you can wipe the area down with acetone, then press the area with your hands to see if more of that liquid comes out...if it does, grind it out with a 40 or 36 grit disc, clean, dry, and rebuild with fglass and epoxy, then repaint.

[NorthernMac]

So I’d say it turned out well, just have one small spot where I got a hair of CSC paint on the gel coat, best way to clean it off??