Has Anyone Used Copper Coat Antifouling ?

[Nicholson58]

I used coppercoat per instructions over new GRP on the new centerboard. For the rest of the boat, we used VIVID. Vivid will foul but is really easy to clean with scotchbright on a sponge mop (extendable handle). I too was hooked he the 10 year claim and the CB trunk is tough to clean.

[Capitain Mike]

Originally Posted by Nicholson58

I used coppercoat per instructions over new GRP on the new centerboard. For the rest of the boat, we used VIVID. Vivid will foul but is really easy to clean with scotchbright on a sponge mop (extendable handle). I too was hooked he the 10 year claim and the CB trunk is tough to clean.

You have not commented on the behaviour of the copper coat on the GRP on the new centerboard !!!!! What happened to it ????

[Nicholson58]

I should be able to comment when the boat is pulled in a few weeks. Winter happens. My experience is fresh water.

[Capn Morgan]

Follow up to my earlier posts.

I hauled up in May but didn't give the hull a pressure wash. As I have noted before, I had growth on the through-hulls, where it appears that the epoxy did not attach itself. The hull itself was fairly clean, with only a few barnacles attached to it; they came off easily.

Before launching I applied lanolin grease to all the through-hulls, to see what effect that would have on growth. A friend recommended putting chilly on it so one side of the boat had chilly and the other one didn't.

A few days back I went to clean the prop and hull with snorkel and mask and found that all the places where I had applied the grease had barnacles, it seems it did not make the slightest difference whether spicy or not. The growth on the prop, which I had covered without chilly, came off quite easily, but it had a lot of it. I can't really tell if the grease made any difference at all so I won't bother again with it.

On the hull, I found a bit more growth than in May, but the boat had been stationary while I was re-wiring it, and I got the feeling that because I did not washed the hull, it had attracted more stuff than before. I put this to the layer of dead slime having hardened a bit as it dried on the hard.

Again, for me, it will pay off if I don't have to antifoul three years after the first application. I will report further when that time has passed, but for the moment I think it is holding up.

[Capitain Mike]

Originally Posted by Capn Morgan

Follow up to my earlier posts.

I hauled up in May but didn't give the hull a pressure wash. As I have noted before, I had growth on the through-hulls, where it appears that the epoxy did not attach itself. The hull itself was fairly clean, with only a few barnacles attached to it; they came off easily.

Before launching I applied lanolin grease to all the through-hulls, to see what effect that would have on growth. A friend recommended putting chilly on it so one side of the boat had chilly and the other one didn't.

A few days back I went to clean the prop and hull with snorkel and mask and found that all the places where I had applied the grease had barnacles, it seems it did not make the slightest difference whether spicy or not. The growth on the prop, which I had covered without chilly, came off quite easily, but it had a lot of it. I can't really tell if the grease made any difference at all so I won't bother again with it.

On the hull, I found a bit more growth than in May, but the boat had been stationary while I was re-wiring it, and I got the feeling that because I did not washed the hull, it had attracted more stuff than before. I put this to the layer of dead slime having hardened a bit as it dried on the hard.

Again, for me, it will pay off if I don't have to antifoul three years after the first application. I will report further when that time has passed, but for the moment I think it is holding up.

In places like the 3d world countries Asia they use any paint at all with very very hot chilli pepper mixed in it and it seems to work well.... Capsicum chinense - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
On the hard you should have high pressured water sprayed the slime. then nefore you put it back in rub it over with Scotch Brite

How does Coppercoat work?
Coppercoat is the combination of a specially developed two-pack epoxy resin and 99% pure copper. Each litre of Coppercoat contains 2kg of ultra fine copper powder, the maximum allowed by law. On immersion, sea water attacks the exposed pure copper powder, causing the formation of cuprous oxide. This highly effective anti-fouling agent deters growth until the surface degrades further to become cupric hydrochloride. This final copper form is highly unstable, and is washed away by the movement of the yacht, thereby removing any accumulating silt or slime. This automatically reveals a fresh copper-rich surface whereby the process recommences
****(Similar to the way a shark moves through the water)****



Does Coppercoat cause any problems with regards to electrolytic/galvanic action?
No. With the resin carrier insulating each copper sphere, the final coating is inert and non-conductive. A current can not pass through Coppercoat and this coating does not cause or promote electrolysis or cathodic decay. Consequently Coppercoat can be safely applied to metal structures such as iron keels and steel or aluminium craft (after the application of an appropriate epoxy primer). The property of electrical non-conduction in metallic powders including copper was first discovered in 1890 by Eduard Branley and is known as the “Branley Effect”. Sacrificial anodes should be fitted in the usual manner.


What colour is Coppercoat ?
Freshly applied Coppercoat dries to a rich copper brown. After immersion Coppercoat oxidises to a dark, verdigris green colour. This colour change commonly takes several months, depending on water conditions. Because of the sheer quantity of pure copper in Coppercoat, it is simply not possible to produce the coating in any other colours.


What maintenance is necessary?
Correctly applied Coppercoat will continue to deter marine fouling for many years. The annual chore of repainting associated with conventional anti-foulings is no longer necessary. If, over the months, a slight accumulation of slime does appear, this can be removed by pressure washing or brushing. An annual wash or brush is recommended. Eventually, usually after several years, the surface may benefit from being lightly abraded with a fine grade of “wet and dry” paper or a burnishing pad to expose fresh copper.

(((( I have added to this hand out from Coppercoat see ****)

I have no connection or affiliation wither Coppercoat ever!!

[Capn Morgan]

[QUOTE=Capitain Mike;799457]In places like the 3d world countries Asia they use any paint at all with very very hot chili pepper mixed in it and it seems to work well.... Capsicum chinense - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
On the hard you should have high pressured water sprayed the slime. then nefore you put it back in rub it over with Scotch Brite

Yes, I think that was why I found a bit more growth. A bit of an experiment, really. Same with the rub. Evidently it is needed.

I used hot chili but as I said, I saw absolutely no difference on the through hulls, but this could also be related to the fact that what I used as the medium was lanolin. The lanolin grease alone was an unqualified disaster.

[Capitain Mike]

Lanolin is made from the grease that is on sheeps wool an animal product perhaps the barnacles liked to eat it. LOL, if you tried mineral grease that might be different.
These people might help theu send to USA and Canada so they might send to Asia.

Prop-Shield.com** -** Welcome to the online store & guide to PROPSHIELD Antifouling Grease
Propshield Grease sales@prop-shield.com

Alternatively you can write to us at:
Propshield Consumer Services
3 Frogshall Cottages,
Canterbury Rd, Swingfield,
Dover, Kent, CT15 7HU
United Kingdom
Or email us at:
support@prop-shield.com
Or call us on:
(+44) 078 5403 4480


Again No connection what so ever to the company

[fstbttms]

Originally Posted by Capitain Mike

In places like the 3d world countries Asia they use any paint at all with very very hot chilli pepper mixed in it and it seems to work well....

Adding pepper to anti fouling paint (or any paint) has never been shown to be effective. If you take your anti fouling advice from third world fishermen, you get what you deserve.

[Capn Morgan]

Personally, I got the idea from an American fisherman who swore his wooden boat's antifouling lasted a lot longer after he added it. As I said, I did a test with a control lot, half with and half without the stuff. After 4 months there was no difference.

Mike, the lanolin grease I used precisely because it is natural in its composition and non-polluting. The product's name escapes me at the moment but the can claims that you should warm up the prop and apply it warm. Again, I didn't want to go that far and did not have the facility. It was a bit of chance taking. Having tried all kind of things that didn't work, one more that didn't cost much was worth one go. Propshield is available in SE Asia but nobody that has used it around here has recommended it.

I'll keep snorkeling the prop before casting off.

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by Capn Morgan

I'll keep snorkeling on the prop before casting off.

If you don't plan to move for a while you can put a thick plastic bag over the prop and strut, and tie it off tight. And if you can manage to fill and keep fresh water in the bag (with a hose while installing), that helps too.

I use to do this to twin 22" props while living aboard in San Diego. Some of the smaller boats they would run a full tarp under the boat and fill it with fresh water.

[Capn Morgan]

Originally Posted by delmarrey

If you don't plan to move for a while you can put a thick plastic bag over the prop and strut, and tie it off tight. And if you can manage to fill and keep fresh water in the bag (with a hose while installing), that helps too.

I use to do this to twin 22" props while living aboard in San Diego. Some of the smaller boats they would run a full tarp under the boat and fill it with fresh water.

I tried tying black plastic bags twice in the past, once I came back to no bag, which made me a pollutant, the other lasted longer and it had so much growth inside that I went for plan 'Y'. The fresh water must be worth trying. Thanks!

[Capitain Mike]

Originally Posted by Capn Morgan

Personally, I got the idea from an American fisherman who swore his wooden boat's antifouling lasted a lot longer after he added it. As I said, I did a test with a control lot, half with and half without the stuff. After 4 months there was no difference.

Mike, the lanolin grease I used precisely because it is natural in its composition and non-polluting. The product's name escapes me at the moment but the can claims that you should warm up the prop and apply it warm. Again, I didn't want to go that far and did not have the facility. It was a bit of chance taking. Having tried all kind of things that didn't work, one more that didn't cost much was worth one go. Propshield is available in SE Asia but nobody that has used it around here has recommended it.

I'll keep snorkeling the prop before casting off.

I would be interested to hear what they did say about Popshield.

Do you run you engine in gear every week while moored. I have raw water cooling using a fresh water jacket. The engine comes to full temperature in less than 5 minutes.

And I think it is good for the engine to circulate the oil and run the electrics.
I don't have a problem with DC for the starter battery house battery as I use a Solar panel and a wind generator to keep the batteries topped up.

It also gives the little buggers on the prop a good shaking.


This help

[Capn Morgan]

Originally Posted by Capitain Mike

I would be interested to hear what they did say about Popshield.

Do you run you engine in gear every week while moored. I have raw water cooling using a fresh water jacket. The engine comes to full temperature in less than 5 minutes.

And I think it is good for the engine to circulate the oil and run the electrics.
I don't have a problem with DC for the starter battery house battery as I use a Solar panel and a wind generator to keep the batteries topped up.

It also gives the little buggers on the prop a good shaking.


This help

Hi Capitain Mike

When I am on the boat I normally run the engine, generally more than once a week. Having it stationary for that length of time was unusual and only because of the re-wiring exercise. This in turn made it impossible for me to start the engine for about 3 months. Not something I like, as I have read that the oxidization process starts inside the cylinders within about ten days. Tough luck.

When I get to run the engine often the prop stays more or less clean, but still, I am normally away for about two weeks at a time and there is always some of the little buggers there so I usually go down with my block of wood.

What I heard about that product was at best not worth the money, at worst a waste of money. I am not talking scientific research here, just general conversations with people whenever the subject turns up. Someone I know told me he had tried the lanolin thingy on his twin props and loved the result, it just didn't seem to work for me. Again, it might be that I didn't follow the instructions which say I should warm up the prop. I cannot really judge the product because of this, I just put up with swimming once a month .

[swagman]

We've tried prop and shaft protection coatings of differing brands over the years, but eventually found the easiest and best way to keep critters off props was to simply polish them to a mirror like finish every year. We tend to get one or two barnacles in the folds etc, but nothing significant that would slow us down
The only other prop coating that came close was an indelible ink coating. Was told in Oz it gave better results but a trial one year did not prove it any better than the polish - so we stopped it and saved on pens.

Re copper bottom coatings it's easy to confuse copper bot, copper coat, cuprotect and others. I can't even recall which brand ours actually was - but we had it from new and they all make similar claims on longevity.

Which is why we and most others go for it. We knew we were cruising further afield, and thought it might save us slipping every year. Facts are it didn't save us on slipping as we had to do that annually to change sail leg anodes anyway.

So once the copper stuff stopped working (nearly 3 years) it was much simpler to use a barrier coat and go back to regular International stuff.

Incidentally and unlike some other reports above, our regular antifouling / barrier coat never dropped off the copper coat (or cuprotect or copperbot or whatever it was) in the following 2 years that we kept that boat.

Cheers
JOHN

[Capitain Mike]

Originally Posted by Capn Morgan

Hi Capitain Mike

When I am on the boat I normally run the engine, generally more than once a week. Having it stationary for that length of time was unusual and only because of the re-wiring exercise. This in turn made it impossible for me to start the engine for about 3 months. Not something I like, as I have read that the oxidization process starts inside the cylinders within about ten days. Tough luck.

When I get to run the engine often the prop stays more or less clean, but still, I am normally away for about two weeks at a time and there is always some of the little buggers there so I usually go down with my block of wood.

What I heard about that product was at best not worth the money, at worst a waste of money. I am not talking scientific research here, just general conversations with people whenever the subject turns up. Someone I know told me he had tried the lanolin thingy on his twin props and loved the result, it just didn't seem to work for me. Again, it might be that I didn't follow the instructions which say I should warm up the prop. I cannot really judge the product because of this, I just put up with swimming once a month .

Lanomax FAQ

Can it be used on boat hulls?

Although there are situations where the use of lanolin on marine vessels hulls can be of some benefit, these cases are not common. As a general rule, Sierra does not promote the use of lanolin on boat hulls. The presence of lanolin encourages marine growth, despite the use of “anti fouling”.