headliner insulation

[shadowdancer]

i have cut out all the headliner pieces and tack the to the ceiling . i am using 1/8 plywood. my idea is to take off each piece, epoxy it, and add thin insulation to the wood and put it back up. my question is should i use foil insulation i can buy at lowes (foil on both sides ,plastic bubbles in between) or use the thin pink closed cell insulation also found at lowes. the insulation is only about 1/4 to 3/8 inches thick i did some tests with the epoxy and the foil it sticks but not great same with the pink stuff although a little better not much

[john61ct]

The bubble wrap does nothing at all.

The reflective mylar also zero R-value, only works to reduce radiant heat gain, supposed to have an inch or so dead airspace between the shiny and the outer skin.

You need foam for R-value, and there are dozens of different kinds.

Thicker the better, how much headroom space are you willing to sacrifice?

Spray foam is ideal but messy, best to pay a pro if you go that route.

If DIY, do you need flexible sheeting, or will rigid do?

Are you on a very tight budget?

[Snore]

I used the foil back styrofoam on my boat. Once I added that behind the overhead, the AC compressor actually cycled off!

[leftbrainstuff]

Styrofoam and bubble wrap plastic will produce noxious fumes if burnt. I wouldn't put them on my vessel.

The thin high performance insulation like aerogel are expensive.

A good compromise are fire retardant closed cell foam. Open cell foams will quickly become mold factories.

[john61ct]

Yes a high closed cell % is critical.

But fire retardant vs less-toxic-in-a-fire are of course two completely separate issues.

There is also the issue of off-gassing in normal use, some people are apparently very sensitive.

But the more "ecological" materials are often less effective, absorb moisture or support pests, etc.

[TeddyDiver]

Originally Posted by leftbrainstuff

Styrofoam and bubble wrap plastic will produce noxious fumes if burnt. I wouldn't put them on my vessel.

The thin high performance insulation like aerogel are expensive.

A good compromise are fire retardant closed cell foam. Open cell foams will quickly become mold factories.

Yup, like Armaflex.

[john61ct]

Brand names vary a lot by location and marketing channel.

Sometimes just one brand can include a variety of different compounds, e.g.

Neoprene, EPDM, SBR, EPT, ECH, Ensolite, PVC/Nitrile, Cross-linked Polyethylene, EVA, High Density Polyurethane,

I've seen people recommend

Ensolite, K-Flex Insul-Sheet as US-based brands, also

"high density Landau-type" foam, but again, see many different variations online, even if filtering on closed-cell types.

[TeddyDiver]

Originally Posted by john61ct

Brand names vary a lot by location and marketing channel.

Sometimes just one brand can include a variety of different compounds, e.g.

Neoprene, EPDM, SBR, EPT, ECH, Ensolite, PVC/Nitrile, Cross-linked Polyethylene, EVA, High Density Polyurethane,

I've seen people recommend

Ensolite, K-Flex Insul-Sheet as US-based brands, also

"high density Landau-type" foam, but again, see many different variations online, even if filtering on closed-cell types.

Find one with the qualities as AP Armaflex FS SA and tell me if you find any. That's anyways available in all locations..

[john61ct]

From the context, I inferred this

Originally Posted by TeddyDiver

Yup, like Armaflex.

meant that product is open-celled, and therefore not recommended.

Thanks for clarifying

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by john61ct

Ensolite, K-Flex Insul-Sheet

Turns out both these are now Armacell products anyway 8-)

[El Pinguino]

I have insulated my boat throughout with EVA closed cell camping mats.....similar to this... https://www.clarkrubber.com.au/eva-foam-camp-mat ... cut to fit...

Works good.

I use the silver/foil backed ones where it will be visible... inside lockers, etc.