Headliner material

[sailingunity]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

At the Lowes they sell a 5mm plywood that I use. For moisture protection I simply paint it (TotalBoat primer and Rustoleum Satin paint)

I saw that and I liked it, but I don't trust my ability to make the paint come out looking perfect (which I would require, being the perfectionist I am).

[Celestialsailor]

On the above note from Jedi...the Westsail 28, I had just sold, had to have some of its headliner replaced. I used 1/4" luan ply from HD and applied Formica with contact cement. Teak battens kept it up.

[Celestialsailor]

In the 90's I used this stuff. It is tongue and groove so if on is not totally flat, it is supported on either side by other planks. I coated each one in Smith&Company penetrating epoxy and then 2 coats of varnish. It was very warm.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hakwood-...3100/206177479

[Bill O]

Originally Posted by sailingunity

I've looked locally and all I can find is the kind with the stipple on it, which I detest. What we have locally at least is clearly meant to be installed with the stipple side showing, because the smooth side isn't all that smooth.

A while back we picked up beige smooth frp on the east coast and used it as a headliner in the cockpit (hard dodger and bimini) and on the shower walls. You are correct it isn't easy to find, but can be special ordered or apparently Menards has it in stock if you have one near you.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by sailingunity

I saw that and I liked it, but I don't trust my ability to make the paint come out looking perfect (which I would require, being the perfectionist I am).

I have spent many hours testing the paint for this and can tell you it’s very easy if you want it in white satin color. The reason is that you only need to use the familiar mini rollers, no tipping, no brush needed.

I think I have threads here on CF on this, try advanced search.

Of course you don’t want to screw it down because then you expose the wood to moisture again. I used Jatoba (exotic hardwood) trim to hold the panels up.

You probably need to make patterns for their shape, for which I used cutoffs from the same sheets and hot glue.

The pictures show results, note the paint cans behind the test panel. The TotalBoat didn’t cure correctly and the Interlux was full with bubbles from the roller (needed tipping). The right one is the Rustoleum with perfect finish just rolled on.

The other picture is showing detail plus how it looks without primer, with one coat of TotalBoat primer and with two coats of primer.

After more testing I ended up with one coat of primer, followed by two coats of Rustoleum, with the second coat a little Flood Penetrol added.

The back has a primer already but I recommend to add a coat of paint there too. Also the cut edges, which is all very easy with the mini rollers.

I use 15” wide panels with trim in between.

[sailingunity]

Originally Posted by AKA-None

Look for the stuff used in rv headliners
Comes in sheets
Thin
Flexible

No source for you now but I’ve seen people use it

I'm keenly interested but a google search only shows fabric. Let me know if you find something!

[s/v Jedi]

Here you see the image of the final paint schedule I described above, with sanding in between coats. It looks good (perfect)

[sailingunity]

Thank Jedi, that's very good information!

This might be a decent alternative as well, I could glue this plastic panel over the 5mm ply and just throw some paint on the back to waterproof it?

[phorvati]

I'm redoing mine. When deck starts leaking, and it will, choice of material will affect amount of damage before you catch it and fix the leaks. Pvc is a good choice as it won't be affected by leaks.
My vinyl is destroyed from leaks, humidity and mold, but my base is 1/4" teak plywood. So I have decided to keep it since it is in great condition after 40 years. I'm using a heat gun to take off the old headliner material and glue new one on. Solid teak plywood is impossible to get anymore. So I realized it's worth painstaking labor to strip old glue off and apply new headliner. Teak is virtually indestructible. This time I am not getting foam backing. Just white vinyl material and I am using contact cement to glue it. Higher end lumber yards have 1/4" marine plywood. Its not teak but its rated for marine environment. it was $128 for 4x8' panel.

[pdx_sailing]

Based on other threads, I had been thinking of using door skins covered in vinyl on one side and reflectix on the other. Holding the pannel assembly up with beau clips. Now I am thinking that using corrugated plastic inplace of the door skin would be lighter, cheaper and maybe easier to work with. With this pannel I think the beauClips would be over kill, would likey start with velcro. Anyone done tried this yet?

[sailingunity]

I'm going to order a sheet of formica and see if I can use that by itself - no backing. It's reasonably stiff, though not as much as 1/4 ply, but since it'll be conforming to the ceiling anyway it shouldn't be an issue. I don't want it to feel cheap, though. In the salon, I was hoping to use recessed lights and so it would need to have backing in those spots.

Formica makes a type that is supposed to resist mold and mildew, I ordered a sample and will leave it in the boat to see if that holds true

[s/v Jedi]

I took some photos of an overhead instrument panel I built but they also show the ceiling panels, still unpainted, using that 5mm plywood from Lowe’s.

[sailingunity]

Looks good!

[Bill O]

Re: the formica. Try to get a thicker one. We used Wilsonart and it was much thicker/less fragile than what the PO used.

Get a good router bit to trim/cut the formica. If you used a jigsaw you run the risk of cracking a sheet (BTDT). The easiest way to get a good cut is w/a trim router and a straight edge as a router guide. Depending on how many panels you are going to do would purchase at least 2 carbide bits.

Unless you are adhering/gluing the formica directly to the cabin top would use a ply backer board. The formica will crack easily if you try to screw it up w/o a backer.

Formica is a nice material once in spot. Cleans nicely and can even use acetone to remove stains when needed.

[sailingunity]

Originally Posted by Bill O

Re: the formica. Try to get a thicker one. We used Wilsonart and it was much thicker/less fragile than what the PO used.

Just looked it up. You're right, Formica brand is .035, Wilsonart is .048.

Originally Posted by Bill O

Unless you are adhering/gluing the formica directly to the cabin top would use a ply backer board. The formica will crack easily if you try to screw it up w/o a backer.

I'm not planning to glue or screw, my plan was to use a combination of velcro and battens to hold it up.