How do I remove this?

[NomadAU]

Hi

Hoping someone in this group has experience of working on this type of binnacle.

I am trying to figure out how to remove the wooden tray from the top of the binnacle. I've already removed the compass and its housing from the top of the tray. I was then hoping to see some screws or similar holding the tray to the binnacle, but no.

So the question remains, how is the shelf fitted... and what must I do to remove it?

BTW the reason I want to do this is to get access to the fwd wheel bearing which really needs oiling.
The other way I've tried is randomly squirt WD40 into the screw plug hole on the stud side of the binnacle (this hole can be seen in one of the pics) but this doesn't get the oil effectively where it's needed.

Thanks for any help you can give.

Cheers
Mike

[marcjsmith]

if there are not any screws or any plugs in the wood indicating possible screws. maybe the PO used something like 4200 or sikaflex to bed it down? in which case maybe a heat gun and a putty knife on the underside to try to loosen the adhesive to pry it up....

[flee27]

Are there any plugs in the top covering the bolt heads?

Does it look like the top and bottom of the tray are solid? Is it possible they bolted the tray down to the binnacle and then installed the top surface of the try hiding the bolt heads?


From every binnacle I have seen that tray has to be bolted down from the top.

Interesting design
Good Luck
Foster

[boatpoker]

WD40 is not the right product for your purpose.

https://www.machinerylubrication.com...ring-lubricant

[capt jgw]

Worst case is the tray is two layers, bottom one bolted down and the top glued to that. No good way to get it off. I'd start by taking the edge mouldings off and see if it's two layers and can you get them apart. There should be four bolts going into the pedestal.
And right about WD40. It's not really a lubricant, it's a water displacer (WD). It's basically kerosene and will evaporate leaving nothing behind. In this situation it can actually make things worse, it can dissolve whatever lube is in there leaving the bearings dry. I like spray lithium grease for things like this.

[NomadAU]

Originally Posted by boatpoker

WD40 is not the right product for your purpose.

https://www.machinerylubrication.com...ring-lubricant

Noted thanks.

[NomadAU]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I hadn't considered that it might be constructed in 2 parts, one bolted and the other glued. Interesting possibility.
I think my next course of action might be to use a small camera to look inside for mounting clues. This is a bespoke built boat so it's possible the mounting is a one-off.
And point taken about WD40 - I didn't know that!

[Nekton73]

Hard to tell from the pics provided. I presume you have inspected every nook and cranny all the way around for fasteners. I see a plug in the trim near the stbd side of the aft face but it doesn't appear to line up with the tubing so probably not hiding a long fastener. A bedding compound sounds reasonable. Have you tried prying up on it from below? If bedded it will probably start to lift and give you an idea of the type and strength of the compound used. If it doesn't budge there are probably fasteners somewhere that you are missing.


An alternative... don't try to remove it and just drill an access hole for your lubrication needs. A hole saw will deposit the least amount of debris into the column (vs a traditional, spade or forstner bit). If your binnacle fits over top then no real concern about water or other debris getting in there. Just fab a circular cover plate and screw down until the next time you want to lubricate.

[JPA Cate]

It looks to me like there is a screw under the wire bundle, and possible another, on the tray itself, more or less in line with the one under the wires. Unscrew them, and try lifting up. Once you've done a good job lubricating the bearing, it should be good for a fair wee while, but ultimately it is a job that will have to be done again, so anything you can think of to do to make it easier to remove in the long run will be a benefit. Most such fittings are designed strong enough to withstand a grown man falling against them, so it should be pretty sturdy--shame to have to destroy it.

Ann

[MicHughV]

my 2c here....

looking at the tray I see the center of bung holes on the perimeter, a good inch from the bottom, or more, yet on the one photo, the bottom of the tray is clearly seen, which makes the placement of those bungs in an unusual location, suggesting the tray is made of two pieces.

I see no suggestion of anything like 3M 5200 being used.

ok, so here is my 2c.... the base of the tray (the bottom) is likely fitted into grooves along the tray sides, clamped and glued into place. The tray is then mounted (bolted) onto the binnacle, typically four threaded bolts. Then the top piece of the tray is added. It is held in place by screws hiding under the bungs. Those hold down bolts will have bolt heads, which likely have been made to fit either in the bottom or top plate. This will not be known until dismantled.

so, the trick is, first to remove the bungs, and then remove whatever screw is hiding under there.. and then remove the top plate to expose the bolts holding the bottom plate onto the binacle.

It's my 2c is all.....

[MicHughV]

The fact that it is a bespoke boat suggests that master craftsmen were at hand, who were not likely to do shoddy work, hence my lengthy explanation above.

I have seen master wood workers at their craft before. Fascinating to watch their diligence, accuracy and knowledge of putting wood together.

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by MicHughV

The fact that it is a bespoke boat suggests that master craftsmen were at hand,

I'll take issue with that.
The fact that the corners are closed, which allows water and debris to collect/lay in the corners, and that the corner joints are closed vertical miters without drainage suggests the work of an amateur.
That entire "tray" is nothing special in construction nor materials.
I would be tempted to just tear that thing off by whatever means necessary to properly have access to the inside of the steering column.
A new and proper tray can be made and installed later, in such a way as to be servicable and removable without drama.

[stormalong]

Considering that Yacht Specialties has been out of business for at least 30 years there is a lot more to be done than just lubricate a bearing. The chain and wire are way to old to be trusted. Per Edson chain should be replaced every five years or so (IIRC). That steering is due for a complete strip down and overhaul. You do not want that to fail on passage.

Do whatever it takes to get it apart.

[MicHughV]

Well, whether the table is custom made or not, certainly the steering chain and cables needs attention. I've had a link on this chain crack and snap, due to lack of lubrication.

I'm still interested to know how this table was mounted. I hope the OP post some pictures. The top of the table appears to be about 1/2" below the edge trim pieces, which appear to be about 2-2 1/2" thick, this would suggest a 2" thick table, very unusual.

The table is open to the pedestal side, so this would allow water to run off, etc.

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by MicHughV

Well, whether the table is custom made or not,
The table is open to the pedestal side, so this would allow water to run off, etc.

Oh, I'm sure it was "custom", but poorly designed and built.
You'll easily see that the open front is only in the way of the pedestal guard.
Any amount of heel still traps water and the sharp inside corners trap debris, also making sanding/refinishing laborious.
Sharp outside corners are no friend either.
At first glance it does appear that the top is in two layers, with the first layer fastened to the pedestal and the second layer "overlayed" to hide the machine screws.