How to rig dyneema lifeline gate eyes

[sailingunity]

I've been replacing my old stainless lifelines with dyneema, so far I have the port side, forward of the lifeline gate done. My first attempt was with a thimble, I saw it online, but realized after installing it that it seems like it could be a chafe point (the stanchions do have a pretty fair entry, but it appears like it could be an issue in the long run).

My second attempt was with a dyneema eye to eye, which looks better, however I'm concerned the aluminum might not like the stainless stanchion too much. Is this a valid concern? Should I just buy some standard stainless eye to eyes?

[rbk]

I would wait until it or the dyneema fails. Depending on where you are the rope may fail before the eye.

[model 10]

Don't use anything, just the spliced eye. I have 3 gates, one with a fancy thimble. There is no point to it.

[sailingunity]

Originally Posted by Ecos

Don't use anything, just the spliced eye. I have 3 gates, one with a fancy thimble. There is no point to it.

Can you show me a pic of your splice eye setup?

[Tillsbury]

I’m not sure I understand where you are on the boat. The pictures seem to show an intermediate stanchion where I’d expect just to run the line through. The start and end by the gate on my boat have the small stainless eyes welded on, and I did my lifelines by a simple splice around them, and then another splice in the forward (or aft) end with 3mm Dyneema lashings to take up the difference and allow adjustment. Yes sure the tight radius probably halves the strength, but in 7mm Dyneema we’re so over spec it’s not a problem.

[sailingunity]

Originally Posted by Tillsbury

I’m not sure I understand where you are on the boat. The pictures seem to show an intermediate stanchion where I’d expect just to run the line through. The start and end by the gate on my boat have the small stainless eyes welded on, and I did my lifelines by a simple splice around them, and then another splice in the forward (or aft) end with 3mm Dyneema lashings to take up the difference and allow adjustment. Yes sure the tight radius probably halves the strength, but in 7mm Dyneema we’re so over spec it’s not a problem.

I don't have any eyes welded on mine, the lifelines run from the bow through about 5 stanchions, then the distance between those two stanchions is the gate, then to the stern. The photos show the stanchion at the forward end of the gate - with the lifeline run to the bow.

[model 10]

Sorry no pictures but I would suggest you locate the Pelican hook in the middle of the gate. That way you can tighten the lifeline lashings from either end. Otherwise the hook or the eye will pull up against the stanchion.
Over time things will stretch, so fatten the lifeline with some small line inside and that will shorten the lifeline up.

[Snore]

Waiting for it to fail is just too risky. I did mine using this fitting. Note how the dyneema will NOT chafe.


https://www.defender.com/product3.js...508&id=2307699

[dennismenace111]

This young fellow has been refitting his catamaran and just built carbon fiber stanchions and is rigging the lifelines with dyneema. This young man is very industrious.

Its an interesting video and will show you how he did it...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1VCsKwDZoyY

[sailcrazy]

following...our s/s lifelines are starting to show some signed of corrosion, and need to be replaced. Looking for ideas and alternatives.

[blubaju]

Stanchions: small stainless tube, flared on both ends, if you still worry wrap thin marine leather. the shown aluminum thimbles are beautiful but very expensive, I used disks with deep groove and 6 holes (2 to secure the disk and 4 for the continuing lashing). Shrouds are 10mm Dyneema, passing through the mast, well rounded and protected with leather, after 10 years still good solution (Schionning design)

[waterman46]

Don't understand your second picture, anyway I think you can simplify this installation

Usually you want lifelines to remain at least moderately tight even when pelican hook and gate is open. So the forward and aft sections of lifelines must either terminate or have a stopper of some kind at the gate side of stanchion. With wire lifelines it is necessary to terminate forward and aft sections with a thimble on the gate side of the stanchions. With Dyneema, why not simply run Dyneema thru the stanchion, then tie a figure 8 knot in the Dyneema at the gate side of stanchion then this line will continue to an eye splice thru the standing (fixed) end of pelican hook.

Usual Pelican hook has a smooth ring on the standing end so Dyneema eye splice without thimble is fine there. But the hook end of pelican definitely needs to go into a metal thimble for the Dyneema not to be damaged. So thimble with Dyneema eye splice will look like first picture. But do use SS thimble not Al.

[tidefalling]

This pic is how I did it.

[Patrick of M]

Just bumping this to see if any new ideas are around. Specifically how about using a soft shackle
instead of a pelican clip and whoopy sling style adjusters luggage tagged at the other side? Basically a zero hardware set up.

[Snore]

Originally Posted by Patrick of M

Just bumping this to see if any new ideas are around. Specifically how about using a soft shackle
instead of a pelican clip and whoopy sling style adjusters luggage tagged at the other side? Basically a zero hardware set up.

I make my own soft shackles. But would NEVER use them for something not under like a gate. Too much risk of them opening or not being fully seated if needed to keep someone on deck