Hull Deck Seam Damaged and I Need Help

[hellosailor]

karma, you will find a lot of how-to information on the Gougeon Bros. (West Systems Epoxy) web site. They also will provide tech support to anyone who calls them with questions about glass work, even before you've bought any product. Which of course they hope you will buy from their brand.

Depending on the damage, you might either make a mold from an adjacent section, or use batten boards to bridge the space and then mold new glass over it to match the curve. You've got to cut/grind out all of the damaged material, and then grind the rest down at an angle so you can build up new layers to match over it gradually.

Exact details? Gonna vary with the seam type. Odds are you'll have to rebuild the hull and deck separately and then remake the seal, but you might be able to kludge it in one piece with no seam in the repaired section. Hard to say without seeing it, and the extent of the damage.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Karmacal

I printed this 80+ page monster and did not gleam a section in it specifying proper procedure to follow regarding an external hull/deck seam repair. Just hoping someone that had experience in this repair could give a few pointers.

Plenty of experience around here. Personally I'm just waiting for your pictures to chime in. No point speculating when some pics would provide all the info needed, IMHO. Post a few and be amazed at the outpouring of info they produce from all hands.

[VISSIONQUEST]

The trick in hull/deck joints where it is bolted or glued is to fabricate a section of f/g away from the boat and secure it (with all tapers in place) onto the opposite part of the joint with bedding/5200/tape (what ever was original) and then do a typical taper repair. The fasteners can then be instaled as original. Done right you can not find the repair

[Karmacal]

You are correct. No use in speculating and I will post some pics as soon as possible. Thank you again.

[Karmacal]

While cleaning out my boat, The Brat, for the up-coming repair work I found the v-birth bow wood is rotted. Awesome!!!! I will take pics this weekend. I could not immediately see any ingres point for water and will have to do some more ripping off ceiling panels. Ugh. Thank god the boat was free and my girlfrend loves sailing as much, if not more, than I do.

[delmarrey]

What's that saying about looking a gift horse in the mouth.

Now you do start paying for it. But hat's the way of boats.
At least you cannot see a large enough place for water to get in. That sounds like a fairly simple job, until you get deeper.

A picture so we can see what it's hull looks like.

Originally Posted by ShipShape

It appears someone has not been diligent about wearing his respirator.

Do I have dust on my nose? I surely do not breath toxins!

[Rakuflames]

Originally Posted by Karmacal

Thank you guys for the warm welcome. Thankfully I did get this boat for free and have fallen in love with the boat and sailing. the hull/deck seam apears to be external type. I will take pictures as soon as possible. It is in a wet slip so I will need to borrow one of the clubs Jr. racers and row out to take pictures this weekend. The laundry list on this boat is long but the hull deck seam and other ingress points such as the port side chain plate that had rotted the panel in the salon. I took this down last weekend and will make a new panel. Just ned to byuy some vinyl and plywood and cut to fit.

Do make sure you seal it well in the end. I had this happen on my old boat (different cause, and sadly it was not worth the cost of repair -- I LOVED that boat! -- sniff!) but water got into the hull and I had big blisters down the SIDE of the boat. I had to sell my poor, beloved boat for scrap.

I like this boat but I haven't bonded with it the way I did the other one. She was a little spitfire.

[Cheechako]

We really need a better picture of what's involved. If there is an actual hole or crack through which you can spray water, then you need to grind, apply fiberglass and resin and grind smooth etc, bonding it back together. (these techniques should be in the book you downloaded) If the "2" diameter" piece of fiberglass was just a thin wafer of mostly gel coat, then that may not be needed. You are not taking this boat offshore or around the world, so making sure the pieces are bonded together and dont leak is the main thing you need to do. BTW: make sure you use exterior plywood for that chainplate bulkhead. It would best if you paint it with epoxy or fiberglass resin before installing it.... gettin the resin to soak into the edges....

[Karmacal]

I will be heading down to the slip tomorrow for some recon and will post pics tomorrow afternoon.

[Karmacal]

Originally Posted by delmarrey

What's that saying about looking a gift horse in the mouth.

Now you do start paying for it. But hat's the way of boats.
At least you cannot see a large enough place for water to get in. That sounds like a fairly simple job, until you get deeper.

A picture so we can see what it's hull looks like.



Do I have dust on my nose? I surely do not breath toxins!

yep looks pretty close.

[Karmacal]

i tried to attach pics of hull/deck seam damage and I received a missing security token notice after upload. What am I missing?

[Karmacal]

Here is a pic or two.[ATTACH][/ATTACH]

[Karmacal]

One more and a shot of the starboard side transom damage too.[ATTACH][/ATTACH]

[David_Old_Jersey]

I am presuming that a) you won't be rounding Cape Horn, in Winter and b) want a cheap "fix" (even if you had the cash available - IMO would be a waste to spend on her doing things "properly").

Therefore I think you need "an innovative custom made solution" (which others may call "a bodge" ).

What I would do is:-

Hull / Deck Seam:-

1) Remove the rub rail (rubber / plastic? trim)

2) Wire brush off anything loose

3) Angle grind off the distorted bits that would prevent the rub rail later being refitted.

4) Fill the seam with thickened epoxy (not really structural - more to prevent water ingress)

5) If the flange shows any movement when you pry it with a large screwdriver - I would through bolt.....if not, I wouldn't bother.

6) May need to fill any "hollows" in the flange with thickened epoxy (so that the rub rail has something straight to lie on / be glued onto)

7) Any large gaps in the flange can be replaced with Epoxy and cloth - (maybe even over some wood roughly cut to fit), on the basis that only looking to support the rub rail and not a structural fix. The good news is that any work you do will later be hidden from sight .

8) Refit the rub rail - with whatever sticky stuff works on both surfaces. May also want to through bolt if needed.

NB. if you are seeing daylight through the seam then I would add 3 or 4 layers of Epoxy and cloth along the seam (on the inside) - that would be structural.

Given that your chainplates (the things that your shrouds attach to - which keep your mast pointing up ) are affixed to the deck important that the deck doesn't peel off the hull when under sail ......Therefore I would keep a careful eye out for any signs of movement. If you do spot anything untoward, start another thread titled "Some idiot on the internet suggested........." . All claims for damages should be forwarded to CF.com


For the stern:-

1) Given you can see daylight through - I would epoxy a patch of cloth in the corner, from underneath (2 or 3 layers) - have fun!, odds are that will have limited access - to both clean up the surface and then affix the cloth . Epoxy gets everywhere. Don't scratch your nose , or beard .

2) From the outside I would fill with epoxy filler.

3) to finish off (if fussy ) could maybe shape a wooden block (or mould something from Epoxy) to match the port side corner.....or slap on a corner fender each side.

She won't end up looking factory fresh, simply like an old boat that has been knocked around a bit - but the good news is that you won't have to be too precious about the odd future knock, and she should also provide plenty of happy hours on the water - both sailing and learning the other many "Joys" of boat ownership.

Just buy something else for Cape Horn .

[Karmacal]

Jersy-Thank you very much and I wil be removing the interior cabinetry and trim to get a better view from the iside. I will take pics in the next couple weeks and keepyou up on the progress. I really appreciate the kind advice and wish you all the best.