Hydraulic Steering Hoses - Getting a Headache

[pcmm]

Originally Posted by Chotu

It says to install the autopilot pump as close to the rams as possible. Not near the helm.

OK... that's where I have mine installed close to the steering cylinder...

but mostly the instructions for my hydraulic steering (Hynautic ) are a bit more generic and just say to install the AP pump just like it was another helm station.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by SV__Grace

FWIW, when we bought our boat our dual helm hydraulic steering system leaked like hell and both steering pumps needed re-building/replacing. Ugh.

When our mechanic proposed replacing the copper lines with hoses (parker) I was nervous but he assured me I wouldn't be able to tell the difference and he was right- steering is fine as long as the system is well bled.

Our auto pilot pump is mounted by the rams and is one of the few components I didn't have to replace, works like a champ.

I don't know if this helps but when bleeding my system I circulate the fluid through the system by turning the wheel(s) so the level/height of the hose or device really doesn't matter.

Oh!!!!!!! Of course!!!

You are PUMPING the fluid through when you are bleeding it. I don’t know why I was thinking it would be an atmospheric pressure natural bleed. The manual clearly says to do it how you are describing.

Apparently, it’s not much of a concern to have a sag in the lines either especially since you are pumping it through.

I just got 4 (qty) 5ft hoses to attach to the rams, 2 (qty) 1ft hoses to attach to the autopilot pump and a rerun line. $450. All made up with the right fittings and all SeaStar brand that goes with the rest of the SeaStar system.

The rest of the system will be copper, as they instructed me to do.

[s/v Jedi]

For bleeding the system, it is helpful if you have a reservoir like the Hynautic Reservalve, where bleeding happens automatically.

For a good, user friendly system you need a bypass on the RAM and a way to run the AP pump manually (I feed 12V to it through a switch and can even reverse it). With the bypass for the RAM in place, you simply run the pump and fluid is circulated and any air bleeds off in the reservoir.

I’ve read instructions where they use an open container of the steering fluid and stick return hose as well as draw hose in it to make it work like a reservoir.

I also found that there are special fittings for the RAM that have the hose connections as well as service valves and bibs for the bypass hose. This makes it real easy.

Three years ago I rebuilt my Hynautics RAM and it was very easy to do and saved 80% of the cost normally charged. Even though the RAM isn’t supported anymore, it was easy to find rebuild kits on eBay.

[c.K.]

Originally Posted by deblen

https://ph.parker.com/us/en/marine-s...ponse-hose-msh


or any tractor supply/hydraulic shop will make hoses to your specs. Just take the helm & ram to them.
Don't worry about using all hose-it will work fine. / Len

m

most industrial applications use combination metal tubes and hoses
Quess best of both worlds

[jackert]

I have custom made high pressure hoses from Swagelok with high pressure compression fittings. They have many types of hoses and fittings from which to choose. I'm very happy with them. It was much easier than bending tubing. My low pressure return line is flexible copper.

[Chotu]

I ended up getting my hoses from http://boatsteer.com

Definitely recommend them. They are complete experts with our marine hydraulic steering systems. They use genuine Seastar hoses. And fittings. I got some really nice stuff there. They were able to walk me through my steering system better than the manufacturer. And they made all the recommendations to have it work properly.

It’s a small business with good customer service.

[Sailing August]

Seamless SS tubing (for long runs) with EO type compression fittings and hoses on each end of the tubing runs is the best solution.
- Granger Catalog
- McMasterCarr Catolog
- Local Parker supplier
If the run is short....just use a hydraulic hose.
Its pretty easy to do....no rocket science.

[capnorv]

My boat has 40 year old copper tubing to the helm. My question is why do boats use copper when every ship I have worked on and industrial application I've worked on have used steel tubing. A watertight door hydraulics are not much different in complexity to a sailboat helm. I would think steel tubing would be preferred.

[Sailing August]

Originally Posted by capnorv

My boat has 40 year old copper tubing to the helm. My question is why do boats use copper when every ship I have worked on and industrial application I've worked on have used steel tubing. A watertight door hydraulics are not much different in complexity to a sailboat helm. I would think steel tubing would be preferred.

Seamless steel tubing with compression fittings will work fine but it rusts and you have to service the paint to keep it protected.
Copper is ok too but it is not as resilient as steel or stainless steel.

304 or 316 stainless steel seamless tubing with EO type "Parker" or other fittings is the best solution for strength, longevity and service....no paint necessary.

Its also easier to source now days with the internet and the Grander or McMasterCarr catalogs. The Industrial Supply catalog is also a good source.

Don't let a boat yard buy these materials for you because they will just order it from the same catalogs and mark it up 50%.

In the USA you can usually find a local "Parker" distributor that will customer fabricate hydraulic hoses for you to length. This approach is even cheaper than the catalog ordering approach.....with the same or better quality.

Warranty is also easier and more reliable with a local "Parker" or other hydraulics supplier.

S/V August

[Bycrick]

Why copper? I’d guess because it was easier to install than steel tubing. And the extra strength of steel wouldn’t be necessary in a hydraulic steering system. The only boat I worked on with steel hydraulic pipes had a hydraulic pump strapped on to a 15kw diesel generator and rigid steel pipes, not tubing.