I bought a Sailrite now what?

[Renegde_Sailor]

I just made the plunge and bough the Sailrite LXZ, the canvas and sail bundle, and their jigsaw for cutting foam.

My plan is to take a mattress I bought and have been sleeping on out in the salon and cut it down to fit my V-berth now that I know it is comfortable to sleep on (it has actually greatly improved my health)

Before I dive into chopping up the mattress I plan on sewing up some throw pillows just to become accustomed to the machine and working with it, I haven't sewn anything since I was in high school in the 1990's so I am on a steep learning curve.

Do any of you have any tips you would recommend, or any YouTube channels (besides Sailrite's official which I have already been following) that talk about sewing etc.

I do know the basics such as reversing and bobbin winding etc, looking for any thoughts you all have beyond that especially anything boat specific.

Thanks!

[Renegde_Sailor]

Also I will add the projects I have planned are:

1. V-berth & Pilot berth mattresses
2. All the interior cushions
3. Cockpit Cushions
4. A cockpit enclosure
5. A stack pack
6. Possibly a sausage bag for my head sail if I am unable to get roller furling this year.

[wholybee]

My first project learning to sew was set of curtains for the boat. I don't think there is a simpler sewing project. My second was a tote bag from Sailrite. Much more complicated, but gave good instructions and practice with different types of seams and sewing thicker material. At the time the totes were sunbrella, but I don't think they are anymore.

Since then I have made:
Winch covers.
Covers for my outboard and Magma grill.
Cover for my mast partner/mast base.
Covers for my hatches.
Cover for my companionway.
Sail cover.
Bimini.
A pocket organizer similar to hanging shoe organizers.
New cushions (in progress, quarter berth is done)

What's nice is that if you buy a kit for something large like a sail cover, there is plenty of extra cloth to make smaller things like hatch covers or winch covers. That really increases the value of the kit, and gets you "nice to have" covers you might not otherwise invest in.

[keepondancin]

On Facebook, Sailrite Users Group answers a lot of questions

[grantmc]

The first project I chose was to make a set of signal flags. I just popped down to a fabric shop and bought the six colours needed. I figured making the set would provide a number of challenges, and it did. I choose a size of 400x300. I enjoyed the project and it certainly helped me gain some skills both in sewing and using the machine. Just getting a reasonably straight and uniform stitch for hems was then quite difficult for me. And joining together two fabrics, especially if they're different colours is always testing. There are several different techniques to join and I found Utube quite helpful with that but man you have to watch some dross.

I also learned that some fabrics are more difficult to use than others. Also having your work space organised and all the necessary notions at hand to fit your work style takes time to .

Like all things, practice makes perfect (well I wish) but time at the machine does pay off. And give yourself space to make mistakes.

The most useful suggestion I'd make is to have 3 or 4 sets of decent sharp scissors and never ever let them be used for anything but fabric cutting.

[MicHughV]

The trick is to make a pattern first.

I used carboard, laid it out where I wanted the cushion to be. Where it touched the hull, I put a note on the cardboard to angle out that side.

Now comes the tricky part (part1) the pattern is for the fabric, but you must also allow for the width of the seams when laying the pattern over the fabric.

Now for tricky part II. Once you've laid your pattern over the foam, stencil another line at least 1" beyond the pattern. Cut along that line. This is so, when you stuff the foam inside the fabric, the foam will be a tad oversize, but this is what keeps the cushions firm.

Gottit ??

[Tin Tin]

To me double sided basting tape was a game changer.
The next challenge is to master Tenara (UV resistant) thread.
I wish there was a better device for unpicking sticthes than a quick unpick.

[Renegde_Sailor]

Originally Posted by grantmc

The first project I chose was to make a set of signal flags. I just popped down to a fabric shop and bought the six colours needed. I figured making the set would provide a number of challenges, and it did. I choose a size of 400x300. I enjoyed the project and it certainly helped me gain some skills both in sewing and using the machine. Just getting a reasonably straight and uniform stitch for hems was then quite difficult for me. And joining together two fabrics, especially if they're different colours is always testing. There are several different techniques to join and I found Utube quite helpful with that but man you have to watch some dross.

I also learned that some fabrics are more difficult to use than others. Also having your work space organised and all the necessary notions at hand to fit your work style takes time to .

Like all things, practice makes perfect (well I wish) but time at the machine does pay off. And give yourself space to make mistakes.

The most useful suggestion I'd make is to have 3 or 4 sets of decent sharp scissors and never ever let them be used for anything but fabric cutting.

My grandmother was the sweetest nicest ole lady you would ever hope to meet, until you touched her sewing scissors.



Then there would be no quarter! ☠🤣



It sounds like a good amount of experimentation before I get into the projects I really care about will be a good thing to do. Thinking some simple throw pillows will be a good starting point that seems like a cheap option to get up and running.

[Renegde_Sailor]

Originally Posted by wholybee

My first project learning to sew was set of curtains for the boat. I don't think there is a simpler sewing project. My second was a tote bag from Sailrite. Much more complicated, but gave good instructions and practice with different types of seams and sewing thicker material. At the time the totes were sunbrella, but I don't think they are anymore.

Since then I have made:
Winch covers.
Covers for my outboard and Magma grill.
Cover for my mast partner/mast base.
Covers for my hatches.
Cover for my companionway.
Sail cover.
Bimini.
A pocket organizer similar to hanging shoe organizers.
New cushions (in progress, quarter berth is done)

What's nice is that if you buy a kit for something large like a sail cover, there is plenty of extra cloth to make smaller things like hatch covers or winch covers. That really increases the value of the kit, and gets you "nice to have" covers you might not otherwise invest in.

That is a good idea, I have been wanting a set of window covers for my hard dodger to help keep the heat out, and since we are in the boat yard till next spring it wouldn't hurt to keep the grime off em either!

[Renegde_Sailor]

Originally Posted by Tin Tin

To me double sided basting tape was a game changer.
The next challenge is to master Tenara (UV resistant) thread.
I wish there was a better device for unpicking sticthes than a quick unpick.

That double sided tape looks like a game changer for sure rather than messing about with an endless amount of pins and so on.

[JPA Cate]

Yes, Rene, the double stick tape IS good. I've covered lots of mattresses for berths. And made fitted sheets as needed. Never used a pattern for the light weight fabrics, just did pins, and then reversed the lot. With sheets, you can make one corner with 1" (25mm) wide elastic and the others sewn in, to make it easier to fit on the bed. You can learn to make them with French seams, or a couple of versions of flat felled seams; the latter make them reversible.

The best thing I ever did was to install zippers for the closures. They go around 3 sides of the cover, and you don't have to mess with plastic bags, and don't ever have to struggle to get them in again. I have used cheap zips for some of it, but if you want to never have a problem with them, use YKK #5 for below decks and YKK #10 for above decks, and for exterior use, ALWAYS cover the zip with a flap to keep the UV off the teeth. For exterior use, I use ptfe thread, as it will last the life of the fabric.

V-berth & Pilot berth mattresses -- if you want to use piping, you can make your own bias tape for it, and it will go nicely around the cord and the corners.
1. All the interior cushions
2. Cockpit Cushions
3. A cockpit enclosure
4. A stack pack
6. Possibly a sausage bag for my head sail if I am unable to get roller furling this year.
_

I've never made a cockpit enclosure, except an addition of a treated bed net in the Solomons, which I cut up, used velcro to attach to the cockpit awning, and old rope to hold it down, so it was not a fitted one. Can't help you there except be sure to protect zips and velcro from UV.

Possibly our hardest project has been the mainsail boom bags. I'd possibly get a sailRite kit for that, though I usually buy acrylic canvas from other, less expensive, sources. I built on deck stowage bags for our previous boat, and they lasted for the rest of the time we had her. Only took measures, and find it convenient to draw it out to scale on quadrille paper.

Finally, "sausage bags".

I. The ones Jim and I made were rectangular. This allowed us to repurpose old jib hanks to attach the bag to the perforated toe rail. The bag has to be able to accommodate the biggest headsail, so ours ran from just forward of the cap shroud all the way to the base of the bow pulpit, zipping from forward to aft.

II. I made three apertures in the toe rail seam to accommodate 3 sail ties, fore, middle and aft. [I work with a 12 mm seam allowance, and finish them to keep down raveling, and I prefer a finished appearance to my work.] We would drop the sail and flake it; tie down the forward end and the aft end, then fold the aft end up that was outside the bag forward, and do the same with the forward end, folding all that fabric back, then secure with the middle tie.

III. So, the bag and the sail were both secured to the toe rail, separately. Then zip it. I made the flap for the zipper separately, and topstitched it to the upper portion. We also rounded the corners to make it easier for the zips to make the bend. I generally use saucers to mark the fabric to cut the curve. Sometimes it is necessary to cut slits to help the zip fit the curve, but don't cut too deep, you need to leave at least 2mm of zipper fabric, and 3mm is better. You can also create a double line of stay stitching to tighten (gathering) the inside of curves.

As you get into this, please feel free to send me a PM or two if you'd like to discuss it further. When I began sewing, I had a friend who helped me, and I am glad to help if I can.

Ann

Measure twice; cut once.