I hit an uncharted rock in Southern Chile

[Jim Cate]

Thanks for all that detail, Minaret! The plan for matching the OEM layup is brilliant. I'll remember that just in case...

And Atoll, good detail there, too.

CF at its finest!

Jim

[atoll]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

Thanks for all that detail, Minaret! The plan for matching the OEM layup is brilliant. I'll remember that just in case...

And Atoll, good detail there, too.

CF at its finest!

Jim

we haven't heard a lot from mineret lately, so thanks for your expert advice!

also thanks for posting the photos it is a lot easier than my attempt to explain the process!.
definetly use rovings inbetween CSM to build up the thickness if you can get some .
saves a lot of extra layers of csm and effort
,just be sure to work out any air bubbles

[GRIT]

You don't say where in Chile you are located, but if you're within driving distance of Valdivia, you may try these guys.

https://www.alwoplast.cl/

They should be able to sell you anything you need.

I'm not going to give you advice on how to fiberglass on this forum, as you're bound to get lots of that. Much of it won't be very good. Talk to someone on the phone, or do some internet research so you can validate some of the responses with your own research.

Cheers, and good luck.
Paul.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by atoll

we haven't heard a lot from mineret lately, so thanks for your expert advice!

also thanks for posting the photos it is a lot easier than my attempt to explain the process!.
definetly use rovings inbetween CSM to build up the thickness if you can get some .
saves a lot of extra layers of csm and effort
,just be sure to work out any air bubbles

Doing that 76' Hatteras that burned and sank as well as a Passport 40' deck and a Norseman 53' deck has eaten every minute of my time for awhile. I'm around though, good to see your project coming along apace!

[atoll]

Originally Posted by svquintana

You don't say where in Chile you are located, but if you're within driving distance of Valdivia, you may try these guys.

https://www.alwoplast.cl/

They should be able to sell you anything you need.

I'm not going to give you advice on how to fiberglass on this forum, as you're bound to get lots of that. Much of it won't be very good. Talk to someone on the phone, or do some internet research so you can validate some of the responses with your own research.

Cheers, and good luck.
Paul.

the process and quantaties are similar even if he can get epoxy

the biggest issue is moisture and tempreture

[atoll]

Originally Posted by minaret

Doing that 76' Hatteras that burned and sank as well as a Passport 40' deck and a Norseman 53' deck has eaten every minute of my time for awhile. I'm around though, good to see your project coming along apace!

gettin there slowly ,laminating up a moulding for the cockpit dodger enclosure using nidoplast currently will put some photos on the thread soon

[Matt Johnson]

Originally Posted by minaret

Wet out the repair area first, then apply pieces one at a time starting with the smallest. Don't do it backwards! Lots of people will tell you to.

First time I've heard an expert say this. Since you're relying on a mechanical bond, I always thought you wanted the largest piece applied first so it gives the most bonding area. If you go your way, you're only bonding on the edge.... why would you want that?


Matt

[roverhi]

You also end up grinding off a lot of the outermost laminate layer fairing the repair. Largest piece first so you have a continuous piece of glass cloth with the most contact with ground down areas around the puka.

[minaret]

Same old arguments, same old people. It's all about fiber continuity in the repair, and having parallel fibers in the laminate stack. This is common sense.



http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...de-104677.html

[minaret]

Originally Posted by funjohnson

First time I've heard an expert say this. Since you're relying on a mechanical bond, I always thought you wanted the largest piece applied first so it gives the most bonding area. If you go your way, you're only bonding on the edge.... why would you want that?


Matt

Look carefully at the above sketch I drew. Which repair would fail first if put in a vise and bent until failure in your opinion? The answer should be obvious even to the novice. The repair done large piece first is entirely dependent on the bond of a single piece in the laminate stack, the first large piece put in to the bowl shaped repair area. However, this single piece, which is now all important as it is the only piece bonded to the original surface at all, is at an angle to the original laminate schedule. This angle will be the angle of the scarf ratio (which has been exaggerated in the drawing to show the effect). Thus a major weakness is introduced into the repair, and we haven't even begun to discuss fiber continuity.

On the other hand, the other way, all fiber in the laminate stack are parallel to each other and in line with the original layup. Each ply in the laminate stack has some contact area with the original surface, therefore to delaminate the repair all plies must be delaminated instead of just one.

This stuff is honestly laminating 101. It's exhausting to reiterate it here over and over, with the same old nay sayers showing up every time. Such is the internet, I suppose, some just can't seem to see common sense...


The bottom two drawings show why the opposite is true in new construction, ie laying up on a flat/fair surface as opposed to one which has been back ground for repair. In this case you would lay down the big ply first, for the purpose of fiber continuity.

[Merkava]

Thanks a lot for this. Yes, it helps a lot. I haven't done any sanding yet, but it will be my next step.

[Merkava]

Hello and thanks for responding. I'm in Puerto Natales. Fortunately, it's on the east side of the Andes and so is much, much drier than ANYWHERE else. It's coming into summer here with the historical temperatures between 15 and 24C. (62 to 80F)
I couldn't ask for a better place to do this repair. Especially down here.

[Merkava]

Hey, my wife and I love your quote. Too true!
Yes, we do have a lot of weeping. I guess the photos didn't show it very well. The first day it was steady a drop a second. The next day it was down to a drop every 8 seconds and I haven't seen it yet today. I'm pretty sure that the whole ballast compartment got full of water. (have a look at the pdf of the interior of my hull if you like)
Thanks for the advice!

[Merkava]

Thanks JM. (my initials too)
Your idea of drilling some holes below the damage is excellent. Will do.
Cheers,
Mark

[Merkava]

Thanks Hobie.
Yes, I'll see what the Chilean government's policies on bringing in epoxy and go from there. I've found lots of Polyester resins here and will use that if the epoxy route proves too difficult.