Ideas to direct wire from Exterior to Interior

[Kokonut]

Hi everyone,

I have recently added a Solar panel to the top of the boat, refer to image. I have not screwed it down yet. There are 2 wires feeding from it, and plugs that are about 10mm thick. The wires themselves are only about 5mm, and I'm tempted to rip the plugs off, and re-attach them after I make a hole for the wires.

I would like to fix a horn and the mast light eventually, but will run into the same issue.

Are there products out there that provide a waterproof cover from the rain, after I reluctantly drill a hole in the timber (side of boat, or preferably the top). A 'product name' would be helpful.

This boat only travels on the river and will not be drenched with any coastal waves nor subjected to the rough elements.

[svPax]

I used a Blue Sea Systems cable clam, drilling a hole large enough to fit the solar connector (I passed them through one at a time). It has been waterproof for 2 years.

[Checkswrecks]

A bulkhead connector like this is what you need for $14.99 from Renogy. There are other versions.
https://www.renogy.com/cable-entry-housing/


The connectors on your panel are probably MC4. Easy to buy on Amazon or elsewhere and to make extensions to go between them and your charge controller.
https://www.renogy.com/search.php?search_query=mc4

[Santiano]

I just finished drilling holes in my boat to of this very thing. But my solar panels are on an arch, so I just lead the cable to the side of the cockpit, then into the (slightly enlarged) drain of the mini locker under the winches, then drilled through the forward part of said mini locker to get into the engine compartment, and from there through the bulkhead to the charge controller.
Dunno how easy that is to visualize, but you may not need a clam.

[Kokonut]

Hey thanks everyone, these are all brilliant and gave me more ideas towards a solution for other projects as well on the boat.

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, Pax.

[OS2Dude]

Originally Posted by Santiano

I just finished drilling holes in my boat to of this very thing. But my solar panels are on an arch, so I just lead the cable to the side of the cockpit, then into the (slightly enlarged) drain of the mini locker under the winches, then drilled through the forward part of said mini locker to get into the engine compartment, and from there through the bulkhead to the charge controller.
Dunno how easy that is to visualize, but you may not need a clam.

On our 1985 Catalina 30 I drilled two holes at the top of the Coming Compartment and ran the cables in there to the lazarette. From there the wires follow the water heater hoses into the cabin behind the galley drawers. Then it is a simple matter to route them to the controller near the battery box. I made the holes large enough for rubber grommets since I remove my panels (hung on lifelines) when sailing and slide the cables into the lazarette up to the connector through these holes.

The Renogy website also offers M/F MC4 field installable connectors. NOTE: they apparently are a bit off the standard, so tools from other manufacturers may not work with them. I don't think you would need tools just to put a few on, pliers seem like they'd work.

[zstine]

I used waterproof cable glands for bulkheads, under $10 for a bunch on amason. They are not connectors. My panel pigtails were run up near the gland exterior and I bought a separate cable that was pre-connected with MC4 on one end and bare wire (to connect component to) on the other. Just pass the bare wire through the installed gland nut.



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PMVC3L3...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

[roland stockham]

The traditional fitting for this is a goosneck, takes all the cables and looks good on a traditional boat but will let water in if sbmerged. Normally used at the mast foot but I would say at least on the centre line if on the aft deck.

[SailFastTri]

@kokonut I have used 3M VHB tape for mounting flexible panels such as yours. No need for mounting holes, and the mount is secure in any winds we have encountered. I ran tape along the perimeter of each panel, and one strip down the center.

IMHO - The fewer deck holes the better. I had one panel fail and it had been there only about 2 months. Pulling it up was not easy (needed a pry bar at one edge to get it started) but it left no damage to the deck.

[Mike Banks]

Use a cheap plastic dorade type ventilator and run the wires through that. The last ones I bought were about ten dollars each. I think your wiring is a bit light. I used 6 mm tinned marine twin wiring run through flexible PVC conduit cemented into junction plastic openable boxes such as are used in power wiring. They cost about ten dollars each, and will take quite a bit of stuff in there. I put Anderson plugs inside and tightened the lid on some gasket sealer. The conduits and boxes although mostly hidden below the panels out of the rain and spray, I painted to match the surrounds.

To the ends of the leads once run through the ventilators I soldered Anderson plugs, which were then clipped beneath the panels in plastic waterproof boxes. To remove the panels all one did was release the clamps from a frame made from angle aluminium, open the junction boxes, disconnect the Anderson plugs--and put the panels either securely below deck, or to take them ashore while the vessel was unattended.

[SailFastTri]

Originally Posted by SailFastTri

@kokonut I have used 3M VHB tape for mounting flexible panels such as yours. No need for mounting holes, and the mount is secure in any winds we have encountered. I ran tape along the perimeter of each panel, and one strip down the center.

IMHO - The fewer deck holes the better. I had one panel fail and it had been there only about 2 months. Pulling it up was not easy (needed a pry bar at one edge to get it started) but it left no damage to the deck.

Just to add to my prior post -- these panels are mounted on the amas (floats) of my trimaran, and are frequently submerged by seawater washing over. The two-sided VHB tape holds up. (Also, FYI: I left gaps in the tape every few feet, to allow draining if water gets underneath the panels.)