Interior refit 1970's kit sailboat questions

[wingless]

Yes, I agree that identical port and starboard will work, also agree w/ a small overhang on the edge. Maybe attach the halves w/ Velcro or a zipper.

For the forward berths I think loose square pillows at the perimeter would work well to cover the gap.

For the mid cabin benches that is where I think vertical screwed side cushions, overhanging the bottom cushion, would work, also giving a concealed place for wire routing.

[Spot]

Happy Thanksgiving!

We have 4 days off and temps just above freezing. To prevent early onset boat work withdrawal symptoms I am assembling a wiring kit and planning on cleaning up some of my temporary runs.

I used to use the red handled 3M strip/crimp tool and less-worthy facsimiles and big-box-store connectors for everything. I am switching over to heat-seals. The yellow pliers that came with the connector+heat gun+heat shrink tubing kit has proven difficult to use. I splurged on the orange and black Wirefly. I switched the jaws over to insulated and crimped some antique blue PVC connectors onto a piece of 16 AWG. It still takes some force but the crimps seem to be forming nicely 'in the round' instead of being smashed more or less flat along opposing arcs. Test pulls both from the 3M and Wirefly are not failing.

Q: Current panel is right inside companionway to port. It seemed like a good place to be as it could easily be accessed from cabin and cockpit. Is there an error in this thinking? I'd rather have the final location in mind so I can cut the new wires with a small amount extra rather that leave big service loops as a homage to indecision.

[wingless]

That panel location looks appropriate for the reasons identified.

All aspects of wiring are very important.

Planning is the best first step. I like to create a wiring diagram showing the connections. Not only helpful during the installation, but critically useful after the fact, during diagnostics.

The tools, materials and methods are very important. Use marine wiring, w/ individually tinned strands and high quality marine connectors.

Here are some links w/ info:

This reply shows my thick wire crimp tool, good for 8AWG to 4/0 copper wire, with the die sets I currently have on hand.

This reply shows my medium sized wire crimp tool, good for 8AWG to 2AWG wire and my Faston flag crimp tool.

This reply shows the tool I like to use for the red / blue / yellow crimp connectors, plus my connector assortment, organized by stud size and type.

This reply shows my Brady ID Xpert labels applied to marine wires and surfaces.

This reply shows a supplemental wiring diagram I create when updating or installing wiring on my boat.

My preference is to label both ends of every wire or cable, to run wire / cable in sheathing and to secure it along the entire run, when not in conduit. I use stainless cushioned Adel clamps, or nylon wire ties w/ screw holes for securing runs.

The wiring insulation should follow the marine color code.

The wire must be sized according to the load, such as according to this chart. My preference is to increase the size by at least one increment above these requirements.

Always follow ABYC. Use drip loops so water doesn't run into connectors or devices.

[Spot]

Thanks WL for the comments and links and pictures.

I am happy with my new red-blue-yellow crimper. It is supposed to do Anderson Powerpoles too which is another project in another vehicle. Anything bigger than 10 AWG I will crimp at work.

Starting with a schematic is good advice. What I will probably discover is that I am 2 or three fuse holders and 2 bussbars short to complete the job properly and that I have not accounted for the Garmin GPS, steaming light, horn, and compass illumination...

I am good on marine tinned wire and connectors. I do need to plan out wire supports and/or conduit. I have notes from a symposium on common mistakes and ABYC E-11. I have a 4-pin mast plug to imcorporate as well.

I like your dry loops and labels shrunk onto the wires, I have been known to use tape flags and Sharpie marker in the past.

Here is the current schematic, without above mentioned items.

[wingless]

Cool.

All around navigation / anchor light switch needs to be double pole ON / OFF / ON to permit independent anchor light, plus combined w/ NAV lights.

Circuit protection is required near the battery, something like 9" or 12" away, maximum, check ABYC. Same for solar connection.

Avoid stacking lots of wires on battery terminals, my preference is one or two and I think the ABYC limit is three.

The schematic / wiring improvements would be circuit breakers instead of fuses, list the circuit breaker / fuse amperages, show the insulation colors and to plan for joints, such as where lights daisy chain. The factory built my cabin lights w/ the daisy chain at each fixture, jamming extra conductors into each connector. Not the way I would have done it, but it has held up okay, even w/ multiple bulb replacement handling. A two battery bank system is great for redundancy. A master disconnect at the battery is a good improvement. Don't forget bilge pump(s) that retain power even when the panel is shut down.

There are wiring labels I did two decades ago using plain paper, text printed from Excel, a small bit of double sided tape to grab the wire insulation, wrapped tightly around the wire, then protected w/ clear heat shrink tubing. Those labels are still readable. The only down sides are needing to print before going to the boat and there is not clear heat shrink tubing that is UL rated.

[wingless]

Originally Posted by wingless

This reply shows my Brady ID Xpert labels applied to marine wires and surfaces.

Originally Posted by wingless

There are wiring labels I did two decades ago using plain paper, text printed from Excel, a small bit of double sided tape to grab the wire insulation, wrapped tightly around the wire, then protected w/ clear heat shrink tubing. Those labels are still readable. The only down sides are needing to print before going to the boat and there is not clear heat shrink tubing that is UL rated.

Here are examples of the paper / double side tape / clear heat shrink label.

[Spot]

WL, thanks, you have a knack for knowing what I need to do or fix or think about next...thanks for the additional label pics.

While I was eating lunch, I watched a video from Jeff Cote of Pacific Yachts and saw the error of my ways with the main fuses. I was out in the boat adding the 2 missing fuses during your first reply. It looks like the first wire from battery to its over current protection should be 7" or less unsheathed or 72" if in a sheath, conduit, or panel enclosure.

I also got to make an improved lead from the charge controller to battery so I was able to try the new crimper with the new heat shrink connectors and the new miniature heat gun that came with the set. All worked a treat. I also changed out one SPDT on-off-on switch on the panel that began to be intermittent when switching from navigation lights to anchor light, causing the anchor light to blink or not light at all.

I think I still need to add some stuff to the schematic. The boat does not have a bilge pump or horn. I did buy some fans to install but currently do not have a circuit for them. I only have one accessory plug outlet. I do not have a light in the rear lazarette. I should tell myself to get all the what-if's accounted for so I can do this right once instead of over three more times. I did find the correct SPDT symbol for center off and have that in already.

Wiring by the light (by the light, by the light) of the silvery moon...

[wingless]

Originally Posted by wingless

All around navigation / anchor light switch needs to be double pole ON / OFF / ON to permit independent anchor light, plus combined w/ NAV lights.

This image shows why a DPDT ON / OFF / ON light is required for NAV / Anchor lights.

One Pole
Bi-Color + Stern -- +12V -- Rear Mast
Other Pole
Forward Mast -- +12V -- Forward Mast

Oops, that is appropriate for my power boat, not for your sail boat. Does yours have the tri color mast light shown in the image?

[Spot]

Originally Posted by wingless

Does yours have the tri color mast light shown in the image?

Negative on the tricolor, the three main nav lights are all on the hull like a small runabout. The steaming light is bracketed to the mast and I am adding an all-around anchor light on a riser pole from the steaming bracket. I will be running 2 courses of wires down the mast, 14 AWG, going into a deck connector.

[wingless]

Originally Posted by wingless

This image shows why a DPDT ON / OFF / ON light is required for NAV / Anchor lights.

One Pole
Bi-Color + Stern -- +12V -- Rear Mast
Other Pole
Forward Mast -- +12V -- Forward Mast

Oops, that is appropriate for my power boat, not for your sailboat. Does yours have the tri color mast light shown in the image?

Originally Posted by Spot

Negative on the tricolor, the three main nav lights are all on the hull like a small runabout. The steaming light is bracketed to the mast and I am adding an all-around anchor light on a riser pole from the steaming bracket. I will be running 2 courses of wires down the mast, 14 AWG, going into a deck connector.

That lighting configuration will permit the boat to display either sailboat under power, or boat at anchor, not sailboat under sail.

In that configuration, then yes, a SPDT ON / OFF / ON switch will permit all the NAV lights, including the steaming light to be connected on one circuit (one throw) and the all around anchor light to be be on the other throw.

Mine is done w/ the DPDT switch, w/ a single fixture, showing the forward segment using one bulb and the rear on another bulb. Both are illuminated when at anchor.

[Spot]

Originally Posted by wingless

That lighting configuration will permit the boat to display either sailboat under power, or boat at anchor, not sailboat under sail.

In that configuration, then yes, a SPDT ON / OFF / ON switch will permit all the NAV lights, including the steaming light to be connected on one circuit (one throw) and the all around anchor light to be be on the other throw.

Mine is done w/ the DPDT switch, w/ a single fixture, showing the forward segment using one bulb and the rear on another bulb. Both are illuminated when at anchor.

My anchor light and steaming light are two different fixtures and I do not have switch for steaming (yet). Would it be bad form to hang it off the other navigation light and just 'add' the steaming light via a switch when needed?


Today I corrected the mistake of yesterday and moved the overcurrent protection for the solar and panel closer to the battery to conform with the 7" rule.

[LittleWing77]

Isn't Marine Electricity fun?

Spot, I think I owe you a responding message. Sorry, work has been overwhelming.

I just caught up on your thread and I confess, so chick-y of me, I love how the cushions have turned out!

The Marine Electrics makes my eyes glaze over. I really need to study more; that is my Achilles heel. Glad Wingless us such a savant. (I am not taking the piss, Wingless. You really are an amazing resource. So generous.)

Warmly,
LittleWing77

[Sherpa17]

Nite ize 24" gear ties make excellent wiring snakes for a boat.

[Spot]

Originally Posted by Sherpa17

Nite ize 24" gear ties make excellent wiring snakes for a boat. Attachment 227857

Thanks Sherpa17. right now everything is out in plain view so I am not fishing. That time may come...I could also see those as nice for keeping the shrouds from fouling me when the mast is down in the crutches and I am trying to climb aboard.

Originally Posted by LittleWing77

Isn't Marine Electricity fun?

Spot, I think I owe you a responding message. Sorry, work has been overwhelming.

I just caught up on your thread and I confess, so chick-y of me, I love how the cushions have turned out!

The Marine Electrics makes my eyes glaze over. I really need to study more; that is my Achilles heel. Glad Wingless us such a savant. (I am not taking the piss, Wingless. You really are an amazing resource. So generous.)

Warmly,
LittleWing77

No worries Littlewing77, I know how the overwhelming work things goes. Last couple of weeks were OK but I have one bigger project to finish and its direct even-bigger successor to start which means I will be busy for the next 10-14 weeks.

The cold is creeping back in. Today is a little above freezing and we are off to fix a broken window in the small backyard shed. Temps to fall during the day and become quite below freezing at night.

Cushions are not done nor started. I have patterns and foam but not have not committed to a final cloth selection. I may just source more of the Walmart pattern or pick out something more substantial from the mill-end store. With the '2nd wave COVID' in full swing I am not as excited to go out shopping.

I do not find the electrical stuff hard or boring, I just need to read more and ask more and build a master plan that can keep me from stopping due to rework and/or indecision. I am also trying to use the right materials and tools unlike the previous owners.

Oh to have my days free and a heated shop...sigh...

[wingless]

Cold weather not an issue in southern Florida...

Did my decades of snow shoveling. It is nice not being cold.