Interior refit 1970's kit sailboat questions

[wingless]

The cushion shape would have greater utility if they had a removable panel for the head hatch, instead of two large cushions, where both needed to be moved, like in this old image.

The end detail on the cushion should permit the hatch to naturally remain in the raised position without needing to be held up. (Edges of the cushion back far enough)

[wingless]

Make the port and starboard cushions identical (if possible) w/ straight edges all around (not following hull angle) to permit flipping cushions to extend the service life before creating new covers.

[Spot]

Thanks Wingless.
Yes, I was thinking 3 pieces for the cushions versus 2, the third being the hatch to the head. My plan was to remove the small keystone cushion before use, but if I can locate the head far enough astern, I could raise the hatch with the cushion in place and hold it up with a catch or strap.


Flippable cushions...that is a good idea!


I sanded, vacuumed, wiped, and glassed the v-berth deck-to-hull. joints. I have not finished the hatch bracing for the head. I am thinking about maybe making it more of an art piece...

[wingless]

If the head hatch is shortened and a fixed filler is placed near the vertical post, then the hatch may be raised past vertical and gravity will hold it open, when the boat is stationary.

Assuming that the smaller hatch footprint works for the head.

The aesthetics may work better if the vertical open gap at the head has a removable cosmetic cover panel, that remains in place during usage, but could be removed when required. It could be a flat panel that slides into side channels.

Otherwise the visual focal point when entering the cabin will be the partially hidden porta potti.

[WilliamKidd]

Ugggg for some reason I can't see the pictures for the berth to hull glassing . That's the part I've been waiting for! Lol forget it I'm going to have some cocktails and daydream about it

[Spot]

Hey WK-
I did not do step-by-step of that in photos, didn't want to goo up the phone with resin.
In my case it was 4" 6oz woven fiberglass tape and epoxy resin.
The 4" is really a strong 3-1/2" so I marked a line on the plywood at 1-3/4" and put down 2 stripes of 2" masking tape 1/4" outside of that (towards center of boat) to help me make less of a mess.
The 16 feet of tape weighed about 90 grams and the surfaces were bare wood and rough fiberglass so I made 2 batches of 2 parts resin and 1 part hardener that were about 100 grams mixed each. I painted on the mixed resin with a 2" brush to hull and wood, both sides of the v-berth with first batch. Then I set the cloth tape, mixed up the second batch, filled in the dry spots, and used a 2" squeegee to pull the tape flatter and remove some of the extra resin so the glass would not 'float'.

I did end up with a little extra resin at the end, maybe 2-3 tablespoons. I found a low spot on the side berth seams and filled it in. Otherwise any extra is good for filling in spalted concrete spots in the garage, just make sure you do not step in it before it cures...it's sort of like mudding paper drywall tape but different materials and textures.

Wingless,
Thanks for all the ideas concerning the hatch and panels. I will test fit the head and see how much room I got. Having the head concealed and that portion of the berth being a good seat with a cushion seems important, I probably sat at that location for an hour today while working on things.

[WilliamKidd]

Originally Posted by Spot

Hey WK-
I did not do step-by-step of that in photos, didn't want to goo up the phone with resin.
In my case it was 4" 6oz woven fiberglass tape and epoxy resin.
The 4" is really a strong 3-1/2" so I marked a line on the plywood at 1-3/4" and put down 2 stripes of 2" masking tape 1/4" outside of that (towards center of boat) to help me make less of a mess.
The 16 feet of tape weighed about 90 grams and the surfaces were bare wood and rough fiberglass so I made 2 batches of 2 parts resin and 1 part hardener that were about 100 grams mixed each. I painted on the mixed resin with a 2" brush to hull and wood, both sides of the v-berth with first batch. Then I set the cloth tape, mixed up the second batch, filled in the dry spots, and used a 2" squeegee to pull the tape flatter and remove some of the extra resin so the glass would not 'float'.

I did end up with a little extra resin at the end, maybe 2-3 tablespoons. I found a low spot on the side berth seams and filled it in. Otherwise any extra is good for filling in spalted concrete spots in the garage, just make sure you do not step in it before it cures...it's sort of like mudding paper drywall tape but different materials and textures.

Wingless,
Thanks for all the ideas concerning the hatch and panels. I will test fit the head and see how much room I got. Having the head concealed and that portion of the berth being a good seat with a cushion seems important, I probably sat at that location for an hour today while working on things.

Funny you say that I was tapeing some drywall today

[Spot]

Originally Posted by WilliamKidd

Funny you say that I was tapeing some drywall today

WK, I remember you saying you did remodeling...

The epoxy has its own learning curve, like mixing it at the proper ratio for whichever kind is being used (more hardener does not make it go faster, just makes the cured resin softer), how temperature and age of the epoxy affects cure time, and that it is a matter of letting the right amount spread out and soak in rather than putting way too much on and then having to pull way too much off. I am not an expert by any stretch but I did many other multi-layer epoxy composite projects before starting this boat. Wearing gloves, waiting for the epoxy to cure before sanding, and avoiding acetone as a clean-up solvent are important too as a person does not want to promote an exposure allergy. I am starting to wear mask, earplugs, and safety glasses more often too.

[Spot]

It looks like everything will fit but there is not much extra room fore and aft and working the upper tank catch will be a little awkward due to the compression post.
I am glad the Thetford is not any bigger. I am sort of wishing I did not make the opening 'keystone' shaped as the legs and sides are at a bit of an angle but I do like the look otherwise. The handle for the gate valve will need access as well. I might just do a cross bar above the gate valve and below the level of the seat and call it good, and probably a fixed support in the back and something removable in the front for locking down the bottom half of the system. Or I could just order the kit...

[wingless]

Thanks for the images.

Is there enough clearance for the Thetford seat to open / remain open?

Correct to conclude that there are no brackets available or mounting provisions to secure the porta potty in place? Will it be secured w/ blocks or frames glassed around the perimeter?

It would be nice to have the hatch retained by gravity, but that won't work hinged forward. Would it be too weird to hinge that cover to the side?

Totally different point, the existing absence of interior shows the dangling wiring. It may be useful to incorporate wire channels before installation of the interior. Perhaps something like thin wall PVC glassed to the hull will permit later service / upgrades if required.

My boat was designed w/ terrific service passages and the factory included 1½" empty flexible tubing for later upgrades. I used glassed in thin wall on some of my upgrades.

[wingless]

It might work better to have the Thetford offset to one side to have a toilet paper roll holder and space for TP storage. The centered head doesn't have useful space on either side.

[wingless]

The existing configuration w/o currently having walls around the head compartment permits storage compartment stuff to enter the head compartment.

It may be better to add three walls to isolate the head compartment from the storage compartments.

The only detriment I envision affects storage of large stuff, like a fishing pole. No walls would allow a fishing pole to be placed / removed into the storage compartment through the head opening (w/o walls), assuming those aft openings into the cabin are closed.

[Spot]

WL,
-Mounting brackets are available, not included, cost $$ as an accessory, will keep looking online. Might be better to pay and grumble than spend an afternoon trying to figure it out DIY style.

-There is enough room for the lid of the Thetford to stay up with out without the 1/2" ply hatch cover, very happy about this. There is not enough room to make it work with a cushion on top of the hatch.

-Good point about chasing wires.
The wires were originally chased through the deck to hull joint and covered with trim, and then taped and held by small clamps the rest of the way. Previous owner(s) had used everything from doorbell wire to lamp cord to wire the boat and had the poorly connected fuse/switch box next to the gas tank in the rear lazarette (which was not/is still not/should be walled from the cabin). I I made a different box with fuses and switches near the companionway to allow lights and a 12vdc accessory plug to work off the battery (charged by solar only) and removed the solid core wires. I have a roll of duplex tinned and heat-seal crimp connectors ready for when I am ready to rewire.

Now, if only I could pick some paint colors...existing wood is 'Cherry' red, cabin ceiling and upper section (deck mold ) is 'Canvas' white according to the Rustoleum pamphlet. Boat was done up with orange/brown carpeting from the deck to hull seam down sometime later. Not much natural wood or bright work on this one nor do I want any extra to maintain at this time.

I had to sacrifice a backing plate for a pad eye from the lifelines to make the 'white' paint chips. Turns out silicone was used both to attach the plate and to seal the pad eye holes. The silicone did not stick to the hull and peeled off the plywood. Looks like existing eyes need to be polished or replaced before they see the shiny new lifelnes.

[wingless]

Why not jut make the plywood hatch secure when in place, then lift, remove and set aside when required?

[Spot]

WL, I think I missed your follow-up posts while I was writing my last one, sorry.

-the hatch: simple on and off would work well and would prevent a hinged slam-down

-centered or offset head: I will have to 'test fit' that one and see...TP storage is an issue The offset could benefit the upper tank release lever as well.

-long storage: currently things like the boom and boat hook are stored aft along the side berths. There is a fishing rod holder on the boat above one side berth under the cockpit seat. Once I frame in the rear as fuel storage for the outboard I will loose a couple feet and the boom might be orphaned from being so far back in the boat.

Thanks for the thoughts, always appreciated and helps keep me from getting too far built into a corner!