Interior refit 1970's kit sailboat questions

[wingless]

Originally Posted by Spot

-the hatch: simple on and off would work well and would prevent a hinged slam-down

If going w/ a lift off hatch, then adding bottom side rear corner blocks would secure that hatch engaging into the existing side supports.

If going that route make those blocks rectangular only at the top and tapered down lower, to tolerate expected removal by initially lifting the closest edge.

A rear loop strap handle attached to the hatch would aid removal. A 1" wide webbing should work fine.

[Spot]

I like the ideas for the tapered block and such Wingless, thanks.

I got to painting tonight, a whole quart to cover the tops of both side berths and the v-berth. I will need to do round hatches, all edges and bottoms and the rectangular hatch edges. I may try cutting those over again with the trim router and a frame/jig to make them smoother. and then round them over. We are warm for another few days and then back to the normal cool weather. I am hoping to take a day off work to sail at the end of the week.

[Spot]

Yesterday was a day off of work and an appointment to get my driver's license and tabs renewed. After that I went back after some small things with the hatches:
-added handholds to long rectangular hatches
--place template w/ clear piece, mark location, remove clear piece
--drill pilot hole inside mark
--rout 2 passes (to get anything missed after the middle drops out)
-planed down edges to make them smaller and straighter, 4-5 passes each edge @ 1/64" (0.4mm)
-rounded corners to remove pilot hole leftovers approx 1/2" (13mm) radius
-rounded over all edges with small router, and a once over with sandpaper
-painted handholds and edges all hatches
-painted other flat side of round hatches
-painted supports and edges of v-berth at round hatches

I also starting thinking cushions. I am thinking stiffer foam and maybe some discounted outdoor fabric as covers. I also found this thread and posted a reply asking ?'s about foam and cloth if anyone wants to follow over and comment: https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ns-4610-2.html

The materials could easily add up to more than I paid for the boat if I don't shop around. One local vendor quoted me 5x the online price for 1 side berth slab of foam with similar density and compression spec's. Another is roughly the same as online, offers a multi-piece discount, and can also supply fabric, thread, adhesives, and zippers. The one-stop shop is sounding really good...

PS The round hatches do have a liability. If you place you knee on one close to an unsupported part of the edge, they will 'flip up' and sometimes fall in the hole. In retrospect they could be a bit smaller and the supports a bit more encompassing and this would not happen or at least not happen as easily.

[wingless]

Originally Posted by Spot

PS The round hatches do have a liability. If you place you knee on one close to an unsupported part of the edge, they will 'flip up' and sometimes fall in the hole. In retrospect they could be a bit smaller and the supports a bit more encompassing and this would not happen or at least not happen as easily.

Could additional supports be added at this point?

If the nail gun won't fit upside down in the compartment, what about bolting the supports, using flat head screws from the top and tee nuts from the bottom, so no protrusion into the compartment? The screw heads could be filled and painted to not show from the top.

If going that route, then make the supports wider, so the screws are not near the edge for better strength.

[Spot]

Originally Posted by wingless

Could additional supports be added at this point?

WL, they probably could be added, fore sure on the middle ones. I was having a hard time finding room for them on the big one without hitting the beams. Once the cushions go on I do not see this being as much as a issue.

I added 2 handholds, a front and back support, and some angled catch blocks to the hatch for the head.

I tried to go sailing today and did not even get the mast up before I broke the forestay turnbuckle using the gin pole, followed by a less than glamorous lowering back down. I posted a couple pics and story of that in the 'Rigging' subforum:
https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...es-240444.html

[wingless]

Originally Posted by wingless

Could additional supports be added at this point?

Originally Posted by Spot

WL, they probably could be added, fore sure on the middle ones. I was having a hard time finding room for them on the big one without hitting the beams. Once the cushions go on I do not see this being as much as a issue.

I added 2 handholds, a front and back support, and some angled catch blocks to the hatch for the head.

On the larger hatches w/ the beam issues, the additional support does not need to create a continuous lip to eliminate the existing issue, more support will be much better. The points where the beam prevents the support from placement on the bottom surface could be cut back for beam clearance, straight taper to follow the beam w/ a small clearance. The securely attached new supports could have small ends that continue along, extending along the opening that help the problem, even those those ends don't extend under the bottom surface and don't get secured to the deck.

How is the opening action on the updated head hatch? My assumption is the front will be lifted, then the rear removed. Does that work okay? Is the hatch sufficiently secure / in position when closed? Does the new front support provide a noticeable improvement in the hatch strength?

[Spot]

Originally Posted by wingless

On the larger hatches w/ the beam issues, the additional support does not need to create a continuous lip to eliminate the existing issue, more support will be much better. The points where the beam prevents the support from placement on the bottom surface could be cut back for beam clearance, straight taper to follow the beam w/ a small clearance. The securely attached new supports could have small ends that continue along, extending along the opening that help the problem, even those those ends don't extend under the bottom surface and don't get secured to the deck.

How is the opening action on the updated head hatch? My assumption is the front will be lifted, then the rear removed. Does that work okay? Is the hatch sufficiently secure / in position when closed? Does the new front support provide a noticeable improvement in the hatch strength?

Thanks WL, I think I see what you are saying about the round ones. Find the spots that will have the best preventative effect and cut supports to fit. It looks there is an opportunity on he large ones close to the beam close to where I climb in to the v-berth.

The head hatch is working fine. It catches with about 1/4" 96mm play either way front to back (cannot 'slide' all the way out unless lifted 1-1/2" (38mm) and can be angled up as part of removing or replacing. The ply piece was starting to warp so along with the planned front cross piece I added one in back as well.

[wingless]

Another thought is to pry off the inner support, then make a single support that wraps farther fore and aft than the existing one.

If the existing one remains, then a segment fore of the existing support, like the one shown for aft, could also help.

The head plywood cover warping is a valid concern, with a good fix. If fore / aft warping becomes a problem, then a similar fix could be added.

Do the blue blocks shown in this reply need to be added to increase the head cover strength?

[Spot]

The blue blocks...I think I have the weight taken up OK by the cleats going to the supports between the beams. The supports and beams are held up by a block that goes to the 'legs' going down to the plywood sole under the head. If I were to add them I would make them look like the ones with the angles that are already there.

The round hatch ones would not be too hard to change since everything is still in primer.

I am not sure what I want to tackle next. Round hatches? Head brackets? Sink and stove? Electrical? Busted rigging? I might have to give it a break today. And to think I thought I was only going to have to clean this boat up a little before use a season or two ago...

[WilliamKidd]

Not to take away from your thread here butttt. What did you use to cut out the old fiberglass mat? I have .....well I have a boatload of it. All around where the old bulkheads were top and bottom of where the births were it's gotta go. Did you cut yours out with something else or just a grinder on the whole kit and kabodle?

[Spot]

WK, I used an oscillating multi-tool with a really good blade. The tool is a Harbor Freight mid-priced special and the blades were genuine Rockwell blades on sale at a different store. A cheap blade only lasts a couple feet, the good ones 16-20 or more feet. I had 32 feet to do. I do not think the blades were specifically for fiberglass, just nice wood and metal ones. I used an angle grinder with a 36 grit 'flap wheel' to take off the bigger lips and a 6" medium or soft pad on a sander-polisher and something 80-100 grit to make things smooth. The danger for cutting into the hull was more with the flap disk than anything.

Pic below shows some cut and uncut with the multitool in the shot.

[wingless]

The OMT is a very handy tool. Here is mine.

That volume under the berth was full of Styrofoam floatation, now used for storage?

[Spot]

Originally Posted by wingless

The OMT is a very handy tool. Here is mine.

That volume under the berth was full of Styrofoam floatation, now used for storage?

Yes, for now. I may add some flotation back but am not sure how much. I imagine there is a semi-scientific way to figure it out but I have not tried yet. The main thing is that I want access to all areas in case they need to be cleaned or repaired. The previous fit-out did not allow for easy access, all the foam was glassed in under the berths with no access panels, hence need for the the deconstruction to rid the boat of mice droppings and foam damage.

[WilliamKidd]

Perfect that's exactly what I was thinking. Haha my oscillating tool also came from harbor freight but I have the red one . 1up on the don't get cheap bladed because I prolly would have . Maybe I'll spring for a carbide blade. The flap disc is always on my grinder while it's not a cut off wheel it will still cut through rebar if you absolutely have no other choice

[wingless]

My speculation is that while floatation is great in an emergency, the biggest potential impact possible from those new compartments is mass affecting the attitude, such as heavy tool or water storage forward of the center of gravity (or off the centerline).

Storage of small / light stuff should be fine.