Ipe wood cabin sole

[fkittson]

I can't stand gorilla glue. I've done some tests with Sekaflex and 5200. For bondin Ipe together and Sekaflex will support almost 500lbs on a 6" wide board face to face.

[Tortuga's Lie]

Sikkaflex would be a good choice too! Most of this type of adhesive should be very suitable. The main thing is the flexible bond and the compatibility to Ipe and the fiberglass. Since you are supplementing with screws, I really think you'll be fine.

[fkittson]

What about a good dutiable finish hi-gloss

[Anonymous7500]

Originally Posted by fkittson

What about a good dutiable finish hi-gloss

I used this: Waterlox tung oil for marine applications

It is a very high gloss and does not show any wear after one season.

[Richard5]

I suspect you are correct about Sikaflex (over a flat substrate like plywood bonded to 'glass).

All I know is I achieved superior, long lasting results with GG for tight joinery. For deck boards, I fastened to as little as 12" on center, mostly 16" on center. Heaven help he who uses ply as substrate.

(My own home on CA central coast, 1/4 mile from the beach, I had a bit more than 2,000 SF of Ipe exterior decking. In 12 yrs after installation I had zero problems at joints with GG and biscuits. Being somewhat OCD and taking pride in my craft, I watched like a hawk.)

I wonder, would "limber holes" in the ply help in the installation? (I put limber holes in parenthesis since they are in the wrong (horz) plane.) Maybe some relief cuts lengthwise in the ply???

[Richard5]

Got me to wondering now....

I don't recall ever using ply as substrate. I've built out of ply, yes, but never as substrate. I ran a going concern, a cabinet shop, 12' above sea level hung out above the water and I never had failure of GG used in joints. I finally did give up the location because too many joint failures due to high moisture during assembly but that was with other 'affordable' adhesives, not GG.

I do not intend this to be a campaign for GG but it has served me well, both personal and professionally. As always I am open to suggestion and opinion.

So, perhaps ply as substrate as the OP intends may work well. I do remain curious how he intends to allow for expansion. I think such was the basis for the use of holly between teak boards for the cabin sole. Dissimilar woods, dissimilar widths, decreases expansion. Likewise, the goop (butyl or other) between butt-fitted teak decks.

[mikereed100]

Originally Posted by Richard5

First, while the wood is not prone to splintering, even with grain run out, if you do get a splinter in you (mostly during cutting and installation) stop everything and get it out! The pain of rapid infection will not let you forget. I kid you not, a small splinter on a finger tip and within 1/2 hour the pain is so great you wish your whole hand would fall off. Yucky is a proper term here, as in, severely inflamed, yucky, pus-forming.

You bring up a very good point. Like many woods, including teak, Ipo can be quite toxic. The rapid reaction you got was not technically infection but your body's response to the toxins in the wood. They are there to keep bugs away, but can affect us as well. In my urgent care practice I have seen a couple of people with reactions to Ipo. You definitely want to wear a mask when cutting or sanding.

[Chrisgo]

Hey Richard. It sounds like you used Penofin. I'm not sure it's available up here, so I didn't mention it.

FYI, from my research the absolute best treatment for Ipe is TWP series 100 - also not allowed up here.

Tightbond 2 works well with Ipe plugs. I have no idea about it as a general glue for Ipe though. Seriously, if Ipe wants to deform, it will do so regardless of any alligator wrestling techniques you use on it.

I have nailed ipe with 18 stainless brad nails with success. You need to set your compressor to 140-150psi, which unfortunately will destroy most brand nailers after a couple hundred shots.

Agree with the Richard about the splinters. Next time you have an open cut, take some steel wool and rub it in there. That's what they feel like at first, and then it gets worse depending on your sensitivity.

[Cheechako]

I think you need to decide if you want it to come off in the future or not. If not then 5200, epoxy etc woud be fine. Otherwise a flexible adhesive, even bathroom tile mastic would work.

[fkittson]

I think I'm going to go with 5200 for the simple fact it stays semi flexible in all temperatures. Thank you for all the great advice. I will keep all of you informed of my progress come spring

[Cheechako]

The drawback to 5200 is if removed later, it will pull the ply apart with it. I used the waterproof sticky commercial tile mastic on my 31 footer with Teak Parquet floor. Spread it with a notched trowel. No screws required. That boat is about 31 years old now. I saw it a couple of years ago and the floor looked great!