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**JPA Cate** · 28-05-2021, 14:19

Harry, I like the way you think! Sailing while the slow expoxy goes off makes sense to me! or between work weekends.

One note, be sure to work in a well ventilated area, to avoid sensitization to the epoxy, and wear gloves to keep it off your skin. On this forum, Chotu is one who expoxied himself into epoxy allergy, and he's not the only one I know of. Follow the preventive instructions as well as the mixing and drying ones.

Follow the instructions. Pre-wet the pieces of fiberglass cloth. You want them ready, and having someone help and hand them to you wouldn't hurt. But first, decide if you want to do the project. Right now, the dinghy's worth nothing. Fwiw, it looks like it is really thin fiberglass to me, too, from the 2nd pic.

Ann

RaymondR · 28-05-2021, 14:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by Byersd

I like the idea of thin plywood and foam....perhaps attaching that plywood to a more solid area of the hull with some screws...using that as a back support...then foaming on top of that and shaping it...then fibreglass...remove the screws and finish the entire area withanother layer of glass. Would this approach avoid the need for removing the deck? Attachment 239325

It would which is why I suggested you do it that way.

fgd3 · 28-05-2021, 15:58

One of the reasons you like that boat is the way it performs, which is a consequence of its light weight which, in turn, is a product of the very thin fiberglass layup. Filling the hull with expanding foam or adding a huge thickness of fiberglass and epoxy will add significantly to the weight. Try to avoid adding too much new material in order to preserve the weight and performance you are used to.

deblen · 28-05-2021, 16:29

I bought a cheap,used,12ft club training sailboat 20yrs ago that was broken like that.
The repair area held up fine but the rest of the hull started breaking.
It was a "chopper gun" built hull-no cloth or mat.
If you look closely you can see short chopper strands in the breaks.
They used to build snowmobile hoods & other products that way in old days.
Cheers/Len

Byersd · 29-05-2021, 08:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by fgd3

One of the reasons you like that boat is the way it performs, which is a consequence of its light weight which, in turn, is a product of the very thin fiberglass layup. Filling the hull with expanding foam or adding a huge thickness of fiberglass and epoxy will add significantly to the weight. Try to avoid adding too much new material in order to preserve the weight and performance you are used to.

Good points...it made me think too of weight balance I will have to be cautious not to create an imbalance in weight between the port/starboard sides.
thank you

Byersd · 29-05-2021, 08:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by deblen

I bought a cheap,used,12ft club training sailboat 20yrs ago that was broken like that.
The repair area held up fine but the rest of the hull started breaking.
It was a "chopper gun" built hull-no cloth or mat.
If you look closely you can see short chopper strands in the breaks.
They used to build snowmobile hoods & other products that way in old days.
Cheers/Len

Ok...I can believe that this was not the most expensive made boat in the day! How did the rest of the hull start breaking...did it leak? There are no other holes in this hull but it did seem to collect water over time...I'd have to drain it before each sail

Byersd · 29-05-2021, 08:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by JPA Cate

Harry, I like the way you think! Sailing while the slow expoxy goes off makes sense to me! or between work weekends.

One note, be sure to work in a well ventilated area, to avoid sensitization to the epoxy, and wear gloves to keep it off your skin. On this forum, Chotu is one who expoxied himself into epoxy allergy, and he's not the only one I know of. Follow the preventive instructions as well as the mixing and drying ones.

Follow the instructions. Pre-wet the pieces of fiberglass cloth. You want them ready, and having someone help and hand them to you wouldn't hurt. But first, decide if you want to do the project. Right now, the dinghy's worth nothing. Fwiw, it looks like it is really thin fiberglass to me, too, from the 2nd pic.

Ann

Thanks Ann! Yes I have been reading on all the precautions to take...disposable gloves...I'll be doing this work outside, mask, etc. Advice to wet the fibreglass cloth is helpful. I feel I am past the rationale decision point on this...I'd likely be best to send it to the trash...but it feels wasteful to do so and this might provide me the benefit of fibreglass experience!

MikeHoncho · 29-05-2021, 09:14

Unless you are looking to take on a project.....you will be ahead money and time wise finding a replacement hull. If you are, I wouldn’t use aerosol type foam. It leaves a tone of voids. Use a two part pourable foam. I’d buy a case of high quality duct tape and cover the bottom with it then pour from the inside then peel off the tape.

Byersd · 13-07-2021, 11:26

Hey everyone! Thought I'd follow-up on my progress on this project. So I have taken bits of advice from many on this thread. First took thin slabs of wood and stapled some bug screening to it, then placed that inside the hole and attached to the hull with some screws (see picture). This gave me a base on which i could then foam, which I did next. SInce it expands so much I then needed to cut back and sand that foam to match the contours of the hull- with a couple of more applications of foam to try to fill in the voids. I had been warned about these voids...and I know someone suggested another liquid foam product but I was a little daunted reading about its use. I still have some voids....but I think it is workable (unless anyone has advice on how to fill those in....I am finding new foam does not always stick to the old foam...is there some filler I might try?). Next I plan on putting a layer of glass (you can see in one picture I tried my hand in some of the glass for a section that had cracked...just to get a feel for how it works). Got the glass from Noah's in Mississauga as someone suggested. I plan on doing a layer of glass...then once that has cured, removing the screws....sanding a broader area to the original glass layer....then laying a final layer of glass across that broader area. Question- in that final layer should I be adding some microballoon stuff to allow me to sand that final layer? Once that layer is done I plan on painting the entire hull.
Thanks again for all the advice....any further tips would be much appreciated!

**hlev00** · 13-07-2021, 12:07

Looking good.

Have you seen the West Systems guides? This a good one that might help with thoughts about glass layup. Two layers seems a bit shy but others with more experience should or perhaps have weighed in.

https://www.westsystem.com/wp-conten...anual-2015.pdf

I would fair in a separate step. Layup the glass with straight resin+hardener. After that cures, sand to see how much fairing you need to do. Then use a fairing filler. Finally paint.

Byersd · 13-07-2021, 12:54

that is a helpful resource thank you! I'll have in total 3 layers of glass...but yeah open to suggestions if that is too shy. I might find as I get to that stage I end up doing more...but I don't want to add too much material and adversely impact the weight overall or balance of the hull between the port/starboard sides.

Narfi · 13-07-2021, 13:26

I do not know if it is a good idea or a bad one, but something to consider.

Consider your foam as your rough mold and your first layer of glass + fairing as your good mold, then lay up the layers of glass you need for the strength.

You have your foam to the shape you want, but your glass against it wont be perfect with the voids etc.... but lay it up and let it cure then fill it with fairing compound (your epoxy+microbubbles) then sand it and shape it to perfection. Now you have a good hard solid shape you can glass to without any air bubbles or problems. In theory the fairing material between your your first layer of glass and the rest is a 'weak' point as the bubbles could break up a little so dont count the first layer as part of your strength. The reality is though it would probably be just fine and an easier way to make it look nice.