Leaking plate in bilge

[ForeverDes]

I launched my New Horizons 26 on Monday, and noticed the bilge pump was running for a minute or two every 2-3 hours.
I searched for leaks all around the through hulls and found no leaks. I pulled the floorboards today and immediately saw the trouble. There's a roughly 6"x6" aluminum plate where the lifting cable turns down to the swing centerboard. It looks like it has 2 rubber gaskets stacked between the plate and the fiberglass, and there's a constant seep from one edge. In the attached photo it the upper edge, specifically right of the copper tube that houses the lifting cable.
This is under the water line, and I can pull the boat out to fix this if, I absolutely have to, but I'm fishing for other options. I can't get the boat out of the water alone, because I don't have a big enough truck, and usually my father helps, but it's planting season, and I don't want to add any more to his plate right now.
It looks to me like the plate has warped slightly from the water pressure, since it's fastened only at the port and starboard edges, and not on the fore and aft edges I could fasteners on the top (aft) and bottom (fore) edges, but I'm not sure how much fiberglass there is there, although from every other area of the hull and deck, it likely has plenty.
I tightened each screw between 1/2 and 1 turn each, and that slowed the leak, but it's still a constant seepage, resulting in a drip of water twice a second, give or take.

So is there any way to seal this without removing the plate?

[stormalong]

First try tightening the screws a little. If that does not work try plumbers epoxy. It sticks to wet surfaces and cures underwater. Available at most hardware stores.

Either of these are temporary fixes. During the next haul out replace the rubber gaskets and inspect the aluminum.

[ForeverDes]

Originally Posted by stormalong

First try tightening the screws a little. If that does not work try plumbers epoxy. It sticks to wet surfaces and cures underwater. Available at most hardware stores.

Either of these are temporary fixes. During the next haul out replace the rubber gaskets and inspect the aluminum.

Thank you.


I had thought about using an underwater setting epoxy, but I wasn't sure if there would be enough pressure from the seepage to cause it not to set.
Another concern, will the epoxy be removable and leave me a clean enough surface to properly seal the plate? I don't care if I have to grind it away, as long as I can do so without causing further damage.
I will pull the boat out for the winter in mid-September, so as long the temporary repair lasts for a few months I'll be fine.
One last thought, are the rubber gaskets the best thing for a seal there, or is it worth using some 4200 or even 5200 to make a better seal? I worry that 5200 will make removing the plate problematic down the road, but I'm not sure about 4200 below the water line.

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by ForeverDes

Thank you.


I had thought about using an underwater setting epoxy, but I wasn't sure if there would be enough pressure from the seepage to cause it not to set.
Another concern, will the epoxy be removable and leave me a clean enough surface to properly seal the plate? I don't care if I have to grind it away, as long as I can do so without causing further damage.
I will pull the boat out for the winter in mid-September, so as long the temporary repair lasts for a few months I'll be fine.
One last thought, are the rubber gaskets the best thing for a seal there, or is it worth using some 4200 or even 5200 to make a better seal? I worry that 5200 will make removing the plate problematic down the road, but I'm not sure about 4200 below the water line.

That underwater epoxy is not that strong. It is mostly filler (thickener). Worst case you might have to chisel it off. 4200 is fine below the waterline. Issue is that you will need to pry the plate off in the future and might bend it. 5200 is too strong for this job and should be considered permanent. From a future maintenance prospective I think a rubber gasket is a good choice.

[ForeverDes]

Originally Posted by stormalong

That underwater epoxy is not that strong. It is mostly filler (thickener). Worst case you might have to chisel it off. 4200 is fine below the waterline. Issue is that you will need to pry the plate off in the future and might bend it. 5200 is too strong for this job and should be considered permanent. From a future maintenance prospective I think a rubber gasket is a good choice.

Thanks again, I'll give it a try and see how it goes.

[Ballsnall]

Is the centre board up or down. If it's down then raising it will force the plate onto the gasket and may help. If it's up then try and add a bit more winch pressure to help seal. Worth a try.

[ForeverDes]

Originally Posted by Ballsnall

Is the centre board up or down. If it's down then raising it will force the plate onto the gasket and may help. If it's up then try and add a bit more winch pressure to help seal. Worth a try.

The centerboard was supposedly glassed into the keel by the PO, so it's up, but afaik the winch still works, so I'll see if I can give it a nudge to increase the pressure.
I have considered trying to cut it free so I can use it and get some extra performance upwind sailing. To do so I'll need some jack stands so I can lift the keel up and pull the trailer from underneath it.
Come to think of it, If it was glassed into the keel, there shouldn't be any water pressure on that plate. I wonder if the patch has failed somehow, or if I was given incorrect info by the PO.

[Ballsnall]

It not just for upwind performance, the centre board is usually the ballast as well so could also affect the stability. Before pulling the boat you can remove a few centre rollers on the trailer just behind the axel's. This should allow you access to the centre board with the boat on the trailer. You may need to slide the boat back a bit off the trailer as the centre board usually sits over the axels.

[ForeverDes]

Originally Posted by Ballsnall

It not just for upwind performance, the centre board is usually the ballast as well so could also affect the stability. Before pulling the boat you can remove a few centre rollers on the trailer just behind the axel's. This should allow you access to the centre board with the boat on the trailer. You may need to slide the boat back a bit off the trailer as the centre board usually sits over the axels.

My keel sits on a full length 2x10 bunk board, and I believe there's a stringer under most or all of that, so there's no way to access the bottom of it on the trailer at all.

[Boatyarddog]

Originally Posted by ForeverDes

The centerboard was supposedly glassed into the keel by the PO, so it's up, but afaik the winch still works, so I'll see if I can give it a nudge to increase the pressure.
I have considered trying to cut it free so I can use it and get some extra performance upwind sailing. To do so I'll need some jack stands so I can lift the keel up and pull the trailer from underneath it.
Come to think of it, If it was glassed into the keel, there shouldn't be any water pressure on that plate. I wonder if the patch has failed somehow, or if I was given incorrect info by the PO.

Do you make much headway when sailing up wind?
Boatyarddog

[RSB333]

Try Gorilla Tape