Leaks on a Plastic Classic

[fred4936]

We also have a plastic classic, and she has it's share of leaks over the years. Try to get inside the boat with someone outside with a hose, or visit the boat in a rain storm. We had a similar looking stain, and it was the hatch that was leaking. Water stains under the deck can come from any number of sources, not necessarily the hull deck joint.

[Browning]

Originally Posted by TrentePieds

Quote: " My question is, should I keep clear of this particular boat or of this model (V32) in general?"

Some of these boats were built in the Far East, some in the UK. I would expect to find differences in the quality of the build, so perhaps determining the name of the builder would be a first step to evaluating the probability that the hull/deck joint is sound. (...)

TP

Thanks again for support.

This particular boat was built by Pheon, UK. As most other Vancouver 32 that are for sale, currently, as it seems...

[wyb2]

Originally Posted by wsmac

...In my price range... USD $20,000 max... every boat I saw had some issue either with a leak and/or gapping and Hardware Store Silicone treatment around deck hardware....

Just to add to this - there's lot of "run away!" advice in almost any thread asking for pre-purchase advice. It's easy to say "don't touch it, go find a perfect boat instead" but in reality almost all boats below a certain price point (what that number is depends on the boat) are there because they need work.

Occasionally there may be a boat that has been meticulously kept up for that is sold for cheap, but they are few and far between and are snatched up quickly. Some of us don't want to spend 5 years searching for one of these boats.

Originally Posted by Browning

Now, I have already looked at various fotos of various boats and never seen such leaks. Are they rare or have the other sellers been more efficient in hiding them?
...
Or should I just expect them on any classic I get (for a classic this will be)?

Depends on your price range. Go look at boats in person, pictures can be very misleading. If you have looked at 5 boats in your price range and they all have evidence of deferred maintenance (leaks being one), you have your answer.

Originally Posted by wsmac

Deck/Hull joints... I've heard, and we've seen posted here, to walk away!

I see this too, and I assume it's because of the size of the job to re-bed it. However, if neither the deck or hull are cored at the joint, is some modest leaking the end of the world? On our boat a leak at the joint has no access to any balsa core, and would run down the inside of the hull behind all the interior wood, to be pumped out by the bilge. No leak is good, but doesn't seem to justify "run away!"

[laika]

Pheon Yachts were a great builder and I'd be really surprised if the leaks are hull-to-deck.

The Vancouver Yachts Association is a great resource and the actual builder of these boats is still active there. He currently owns a V32 himself. I'd highly recommend the VYA for questions specific to the V32.

[mikemenza]

Originally Posted by wsmac

That's why I'm taking this current leak in stride at the moment.
Mechanically, it's the joint between different surfaces that are at some level of dynamic state and what I need to do is create a seal between them that will allow for that movement.

That and hope no water has infiltrated the glass'd hull and deck!

So unless I can find out otherwise... I'll take up the toerail to whatever amount I feel necessary and rebed it.
I can imagine pulling the whole toerail up might be the best way, since jacking only part of it up might introduce an issue at the leverage point?

Just a thought.. IF it's a toe rail leak.. it's the screws holding the toe rail.
Why not remove the screws, clean the screws and the holes up, then fill the hole with 3m 5200, coat the screw and put the screws back in (wet). Then clean up to be presentable.. IF the screws are loose or striped you may have to epoxy the holes and drill a small pilot to restart the screws..
thoughts ?

[Trumpet]

I have a Vancouver 28, 1986, which I've had 4 years now. There were leaks down the starboard side which have mostly been resolved by rebedding the stanchion bases - check if your leaks are directly beneath stanchions. If the pulpit has taken a knock at some point, it can shift the stanchions. I'd be surprised if there was a problem with the hull/deck joint on a Vancouver - they were built to last.

[wsmac]

I feel like I'm co-opting the OP's thread... sorry Browning!

[Lepke]

I have repaired many boats in my time. I found screws, bolts and lags always allow water into wood, cored hulls, etc. No bedding compound lasts forever. The best long term fix is to drill an oversize hole, dry the wood/core, and fill with epoxy. Epoxy holds to wood/fiberglass better than screws. I use West Epoxy w/high density filler. After the epoxy is cured, drill a new pilot hole. Before driving the screw, use a syringe and put some epoxy in the hole. The screw will be sealed in epoxy, won't loosen up and can't leak, even w/o bedding compound. With bolts I do the same except make a pocket at the top of the bolt hole, add epoxy to the pocket after the bolt is started so the bolt is bonded to the epoxy and the epoxy to the hull. Horizontal holes to be filled can be covered with duct tape. A small hole for a syringe allows filling, but the surface tension of the epoxy keeps the filler from dripping out.
All hulls flex in the ocean, steel included. 2 piece hulls properly bonded and fastened usually don't leak if their rivets were sealed. Many time the side leaks really come from the chain plates, stanchions. Especially where people use them to board.

[Browning]

Originally Posted by wsmac

I feel like I'm co-opting the OP's thread... sorry Browning!

NP Pal, I'm learning from you too

[TheThunderbird]

Any leanings from deck illustrates disregard and negligence from PO.

If design is sound, remedy can be affordable, through painful.

At worse, it is a clear NO WAY, since only a hull to ballast leaking could be more worrisome