Lewmar Rollstop Hatch Hinge Removal

[a1sailor]

Hi,
I would like to remove the hinge pins in my Lewmar Rollstop Hatches (1990 vintage) to replace the acrylic in the hatch. However, both ends of the Rollstop hinge pin are formed with a head and do not push out. These hinge pins do not have a cir-clip on one end to make removal easy, I understand that some Rollstop hinges have pins with a cir-clip to make hinge removal easy.
I tried drilling off the head on one of the pins but the pin just spins and the drill cannot do its job.

I noticed that on the deck side of the hinge that the hinge has two screws that go through the deck frame into the deck and that there appears to be two studs with flattened heads also attaching the hinge to the deck. Can these studs be drilled out to aid in the hinge removal?

Has anyone removed these studs? Are the two screws per hinge sufficient to hold the hinge in place to the deck after re-install. The studs do not appear to be able to be replaced as they are cast with the deck frame. It may be possible to add additional screws replacing the studs.
Removing these studs seem to be the only way to get the hatch off of the boat for acrylic replacement.

Thanks
A1sailor
Thanks

[Lvoloshin]

Hello, I am having the same issue with my Lewmar Ocean Hatches with the roll stops. Our C&C 30 has the original ‘89 vintage lewmar rollstop hatches that have flanged pins in the hinges. Tried to follow the original lewmar kit instructions (also Circa 89 it seems judging from how old this kit looks!) but it’s impossible to push out the pin in either direction as it is flanged on both ends. Read on another forum that trying to drill the pin out is not likely to be productive since the whole thing spins.

Help appreciated! At a loss here.. lol

[tkeithlu]

Without being able to fully envision the task, but thinking that I understand, may I suggest that you grind off the rivet heads rather than trying to drill them? Use a regular grinder if the heads are positioned such that you won't damage the surrounding wood in the process, or a Dremel tool if it's fine work.

Alternatively, cut a cross grove in one end of the rivet, have someone hold it with a screwdriver, and then drill out the other head.

Gotta skin this cat.

[double u]

as far as I remember the instructions for the hinge kit said to just punch the hinge pin through. All parts damaged by this are part of the hinge kit (That might be no longer available -so check beforehand)
Maybe just leave the lid in place 6 replace the acrylic with the hatch in situ...

[double u]

...& maybe: after 30 years it's time for a new hatch???

[double u]

no hinge kits on Lewmar's main site for 40, 50, 60 & 65 size rollstops

[double u]

part nos (just in case old stock somewhere
sz50: 19782200
sz40: 19784700
sz65: 19782400
sz70: 19782300
(part nos from 2017)

[Tetepare]

I've done it, sadly I don't remember what I did to remove the hatch. But if I can do it, you can.

[Lvoloshin]

Back to report that We did It!

One hatch has been done successfully!

Believe it’s a size 20. Our end game is to replace the hatch lids with spares off Defender but the actual hinge bit with the roll stop is part of the assembly that stays on the deck. I did indeed have the rollstop kit from Lewmar. It states to “punch out the existing pin” - nigh impossible with the flanges on both ends of those steel pins. We bought a cobalt drill bit and held one end of the pin in place with friction from a flat screwdriver, while drilling out the flange on the other end.

Putting in the new replacement “roll stop” was a whole other story. There is a rubber strip which sits under a plastic piece inside the deck side of the hinge. The plastic sticks out and locks into the “gear like” grooved side on the lid hinge. The rubber is soft enough to deform under force and allow the plastic bit to move down & then up to lock into the next slot in the lid hinge. This is what allows the roll stop to lock in various positions. Using these kit parts as is, however, it was impossible to get the new pin in!! The rubber and plastic pieces push so much against the upper lid hinge that we couldn’t get the pin through. Luckily before trying to force it further we checked for alignment by getting a screwdriver shaft through one of the hinges & to check how the new roll stop would work. It was too tough to open even a crack and we ended up having to cut off about 1-2mm off the stock rubber piece height before the force needed was reasonable. The trick to reassemble ended up being to get the pin in through one side and keep hammering away until it knocks out a plastic end piece (shaped like a keyhole) on the other end...then push down as much as possible on the hatch while another person uses a towel and vice grips to squeeze the final end piece back into the slot and on to the pin.

Phew! Tougher than expected but feel way more confident about the next hatch. Hope this helps someone!!

[double u]

I seem to recall there were different versions of those hinge-kits (apart from the different sizes) sold by Lewmar (this was early-mid 90ies)
better than new hinge kits: the telescoping stay

[KNUTT]

Hallo
Please , i have the same Problem with two rollstopp sz20 hatches.
At first, my biggest Problem ist to get two repair sets, its not possible.
Is here someone who can help?
Thanks a lot
Best regard
Carsten

Originally Posted by Lvoloshin

Back to report that We did It!

One hatch has been done successfully!

Believe it’s a size 20. Our end game is to replace the hatch lids with spares off Defender but the actual hinge bit with the roll stop is part of the assembly that stays on the deck. I did indeed have the rollstop kit from Lewmar. It states to “punch out the existing pin” - nigh impossible with the flanges on both ends of those steel pins. We bought a cobalt drill bit and held one end of the pin in place with friction from a flat screwdriver, while drilling out the flange on the other end.

Putting in the new replacement “roll stop” was a whole other story. There is a rubber strip which sits under a plastic piece inside the deck side of the hinge. The plastic sticks out and locks into the “gear like” grooved side on the lid hinge. The rubber is soft enough to deform under force and allow the plastic bit to move down & then up to lock into the next slot in the lid hinge. This is what allows the roll stop to lock in various positions. Using these kit parts as is, however, it was impossible to get the new pin in!! The rubber and plastic pieces push so much against the upper lid hinge that we couldn’t get the pin through. Luckily before trying to force it further we checked for alignment by getting a screwdriver shaft through one of the hinges & to check how the new roll stop would work. It was too tough to open even a crack and we ended up having to cut off about 1-2mm off the stock rubber piece height before the force needed was reasonable. The trick to reassemble ended up being to get the pin in through one side and keep hammering away until it knocks out a plastic end piece (shaped like a keyhole) on the other end...then push down as much as possible on the hatch while another person uses a towel and vice grips to squeeze the final end piece back into the slot and on to the pin.

Phew! Tougher than expected but feel way more confident about the next hatch. Hope this helps someone!!

[tkeithlu]

Now you know how to do something that you will do one more time in your life. But on the bright side, knowing how to hold a rivet while grinding its head off may be useful again, and you have a skill to share with others on the forum.

Congrats on the job well done.

[Montana Dan]

I am attempting to locate the rollstop hinge components so my hatches can be held open. I have size 20 hatches and two of the next size up although they all appear to use the same componets. Anyone have a rebuild kit or two they would like to part with?

[Tupaia]

Originally Posted by Montana Dan

I am attempting to locate the rollstop hinge components so my hatches can be held open. I have size 20 hatches and two of the next size up although they all appear to use the same componets. Anyone have a rebuild kit or two they would like to part with?

I have just replaced a couple due to leaks and crazing the hinges were functioning fine if you are interested PM me.