Lexon to Teak Sealer

[s/vfootloose]

My neighbors hatches are a teak frame with a lexon top. They are leaking. He said the previous sealer was stuck to the wood but not the lexon. Any advice as to the best sealer would be appreciated. Thanks

[seacap]

Use Butyl tape. You can also get Butyl in caulking tubes at most hardware stores. Reports of it still sticky and flexible 30 years on. Started using it a few years ago and it is great. Easy to clean up also.
Do not use 3M 5200. It is a polyurethane adhesive. You can't imagine the amount of damage I have seen in trying to remove something bedded with 5200. I will agree there are some uses for it, but very few.

And don't use any silicons if you want to paint or varnish the area in the future.

[s/vfootloose]

Thanks for the info I'll pass it on

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by seacap

Do not use 3M 5200. It is a polyurethane [B]adhesive...

And do NOT use polysulfides, such as 3M "101" to bed plastic portlights, neither acrylic (Plexiglas) or polycarbonate (Lexan).

[slowshoes]

The only caulk you can use with lexan or plexiglass is silicon (never tried the butyl tape before so I don't know about that).

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by slowshoes

The only caulk you can use with lexan or plexiglass is silicon (never tried the butyl tape before so I don't know about that).

Not so.

POLYURETHANES ("5200"), for instance, though very tenacious (often a good thing), are chemically compatible with lexan.

[slowshoes]

Originally Posted by GordMay

Not so.

POLYURETHANES ("5200"), for instance, though very tenacious (often a good thing), are chemically compatible with lexan.

True, but I've always considered 5200 more an adhesive than a caulk.

I know they have come out with something that supposedly breaks 5200's bond - I've yet to talk with anyone who has used it though. If it truly does work, I would think knowing you could break 5200's bond without the use of an axe would make it a far more useful product.

[PAR]

It's quite correct that the only proper polycarbonate adhesive is silicon. Polyurethane, polysulfides and the like don't not have much grip on Lexan. One of the only places silicon actually is worth using in the marine environment is on polycarbonate. 3M 5200 is a polyurethane and though does grab Lexan, though it doesn't stay stuck very well. Silicon does and with less adhesive tenacity too, so it can be removed when necessary, which 3M 5200 isn't fond of and we all can attest to.

[s/vfootloose]

Thanks for all the info. It seems the choice is butyl or silicone. The hatch has about a 1 1/2 " lip that the lexon sits on and is then screwed on. It would be possible to tape and use silicone. I am well aquainted with 5200, the PO of my boat thought it was better than sex. Debond works if it is very thin but I had it a 1/2" + in places. I used grinders,sanders(40 grit), scrapers, knives and hours of labor to remove it.

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by PAR

... Polyurethane, polysulfides and the like don't not have much grip on Lexan...
... 3M 5200 is a polyurethane and though does grab Lexan, though it doesn't stay stuck very well. Silicon does and with less adhesive tenacity too, so it can be removed when necessary, which 3M 5200 isn't fond of and we all can attest to.

Are you playing mind games with us?
There’s more contradictions than I can believe mere accident.

‘5200' doesn’t grip lexan, or stay stuck very well; but can’t be removed.
Silicone sticks well, but isn’t adhesively tenacious, and can be removed.

[PAR]

Sorry, my brain thinks faster then my fingers apparently.

3M 5200 doesn't stick well to Lexan, but it does to the frame, making for a leak and a difficult to remove caulk of questionable value.

Silicone sticks to Lexan well, but doesn't have the tenacious adhesion of other caulks, so it can be removed and replaced as required with out damaging the frame.