Long-term on the hard: filters, impellers, etc.

[pjbori]

Hi there,

Due to a new job I will have to skip a season next summer and for that reason keep the boat on the hard for a relatively long time (September 2022 - March 2024). I was wondering what state I should keep the engine in. As in:

1. My impeller is due replacing, however, I know that impellers need lubrication. So is it better to leave the old one in and replace with a new one when the boat goes back in the water? Or should I remove the old one and not put in the new one until the boat is back?

2. I just changed the oil and oil filter, figuring it doesn't do harm for fresh oil to sit in there instead of old one. I guess when the boat goes back I should still do another oil change right?

3. Fuel filters stage 1 & 2: should I replace these (they're due to be replaced) now, or before the boat goes back in?

Thanks!

[Chotu]

1) replace when the boat goes back in.

2) another oil change when the boat goes back in.

3) replace when the boat goes back in.

Of the most concern will be your batteries, your fuel storage over the two years, making sure it gets ventilation but is still watertight. Making sure any cockpit drains do not fill up with leaves and cause rainwater to overflow into the cabin. Things like that.

[pjbori]

Thanks @chotu! Yes, I'm still working on the batteries...hoping someone can charge them every now and then in the marina, as I will be abroad. Regarding fuel storage: I was told it's best to fill up the diesel tank as to avoid air going in the tank and growth occurring. Do you concur?

[Mike OReilly]

We routinely (annually) leave our boat on the hard for six months at a time. On occasion this has stretched to 18 months, or even 33 months (thanks to Covid). I agree with Chotu.

We always leave the diesel tank full and sealed, but be sure to add the requisite amount of fuel stabilizer.

Depending on your location, and type of boat, you may need or want to cover. We always do, but we face real winters and have a leaky-teaky boat.

Batteries are interesting. My approach is always to fully charge them, then physically disconnect them. I don't rely on circuit switches, I completely disconnect everything. Even when I came back from our 33 month hiatus, the batteries were still OK (12.5v), and have served us through this current season.

[S/V Illusion]

Originally Posted by pjbori

I was told it's best to fill up the diesel tank as to avoid air going in the tank and growth occurring. Do you concur?

Urban myths die hard…

Diesel ages poorly. Even in harsh climates, it’s best to use the existing diesel now and not fill the tank(s). Lots of evidence that condensation won’t form in an empty tank if the vent is plugged properly. And even if it did form, it’s simple to remove prior to filling with fresh fuel.

[zlehmann]

Originally Posted by Mike OReilly

My approach is always to fully charge them, then physically disconnect them.

I was going to jump in with this as well. As an RC guy I spend a lot of time thinking about batteries. I would think the best way to store them is fully charged but disconnected.

[GreenWave]

If you aren’t passing fuel through your filter I don’t think you need to change it later assuming on hard for 12 months or less. Put some bug killer in the tank and close it up.

[pjbori]

Originally Posted by Mike OReilly

Batteries are interesting. My approach is always to fully charge them, then physically disconnect them. I don't rely on circuit switches, I completely disconnect everything. Even when I came back from our 33 month hiatus, the batteries were still OK (12.5v), and have served us through this current season.

Thanks Mike! I am putting on a cover for sure and will use your tip of the fuel stabiliser. Re batteries, I was amazed to hear they were ok after 33 months! Someone else told me theirs died after an 11 month gap (also due to covid). So I'm torn. I received various tips on another forum (specifically for sailboat electrics), such as connecting a solar panel to a charger, and directly connecting that to the battery; or getting a WiFi smart plug that I can control from an app. They all sound good, but I'm just weary of leaving anything connected. The boat's electrics are fine, but the risk of fire is always there, especially given that I won't visit the boat until Spring earliest. And I suppose I'd rather have three dead batteries than a dead boat...

[pjbori]

Originally Posted by zlehmann

I was going to jump in with this as well. As an RC guy I spend a lot of time thinking about batteries. I would think the best way to store them is fully charged but disconnected.

Thanks zlehmann! Even if batteries are uncharged for i.e. 10-12 months (in reality probably less)?

[zlehmann]

If you're talking up to a year you can discharge them first. The battery itself is pretty stable either charged or discharged. Something would have to puncture the batteries case to cause a fire or anything like that, which I would assume means you have bigger problems on your hands.

My understanding, at least with the LiPO batteries I use for hobby stuff, is that you never want to fully discharge them, it basically ruins the lifespan of the battery. So you're going to want some charge in them. That being the case the chemical processes in the battery will also degrade a little over time without use/recharge cycle. So if you want to come back to the boat with you best chance of having batteries that are still working well and maybe even have some juice in them, I would go with the fully charged but disconnected approach.

Or, if you're really worried about them. Take them out of the boat and keep them in your garage where you can periodically monitor them etc.

[Mike OReilly]

Originally Posted by pjbori

Thanks Mike! I am putting on a cover for sure and will use your tip of the fuel stabiliser. Re batteries, I was amazed to hear they were ok after 33 months! Someone else told me theirs died after an 11 month gap (also due to covid). So I'm torn. I received various tips on another forum (specifically for sailboat electrics), such as connecting a solar panel to a charger, and directly connecting that to the battery; or getting a WiFi smart plug that I can control from an app. They all sound good, but I'm just weary of leaving anything connected. The boat's electrics are fine, but the risk of fire is always there, especially given that I won't visit the boat until Spring earliest. And I suppose I'd rather have three dead batteries than a dead boat...

The best option is definitely keeping the batteries charged. If you can do that via solar or wind, then it’s worth considering. My own experience with leaving solar connected was that this killed my batteries. In this case I think it was due to cheapo panels not having a blocking diod to prevent reverse current (panels without diodes can draw power from batteries). Good panels, and a controller should prevent this, but controllers also use power, so I’d be concerned if this draw could be too much over a long, cold winter.

I too was shocked to find my current batteries in such good shape after such a long hiatus without charge. Based on common knowledge about self-discharge rates, I can’t explain it. It has left me questioning this common wisdom about how batteries are supposed to work.

Note, I’ve always left my boat in colder places (Canada, eh). Cold definitely slows self-discharge. But my 33 month ignored batteries still should have been dead - based on “common knowledge.”

[Shrew]

FALL LAYUP: Oil change, oil filter, propylene glycol in all raw and freshwater systems.

SPRING COMMISSIONING: Fuel Filters, Belts, Impellors

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by pjbori

Hi there,

Due to a new job I will have to skip a season next summer and for that reason keep the boat on the hard for a relatively long time (September 2022 - March 2024). I was wondering what state I should keep the engine in. As in:

1. My impeller is due replacing, however, I know that impellers need lubrication. So is it better to leave the old one in and replace with a new one when the boat goes back in the water? Or should I remove the old one and not put in the new one until the boat is back?
Wait until you are back. The impellor may take a permanent deformation sitting so long.
2. I just changed the oil and oil filter, figuring it doesn't do harm for fresh oil to sit in there instead of old one. I guess when the boat goes back I should still do another oil change right?
That's good, you got the acids out of the crankcase. I wouldn't rechange it necessarily.
3. Fuel filters stage 1 & 2: should I replace these (they're due to be replaced) now, or before the boat goes back in?
Probably wait, or take them out and drain the housing entirely?
Thanks!

See bold above.
One thing you can do is spray in the engine intake while shutting down, with engine preservative or just oil. Keeps things like valves stems coated. Takes 2 people though. Very short cranks/tap while spraying. It may start though.

[Brioche]

Will you have access to the boat? We pull out every winter and do everything recommended above -- including fogging engine. When mast is down it is also a good chance to do any maintenance work that would otherwise involve climbing it. We usually have the boat shrink-wrapped, but not always, since it is not always easy to get to things you may want to work on if it is covered. It is also a good idea if possible to check on it from time to time. If covered, you can cut a flap in the wrap and get in and out that way, taping it back closed when you leave. Sometimes there can be surprises. You can also try wrapping yourself using a big tarpaulin, which saves a few hundred bucks, but is a lot riskier in terms of letting things in. Another tip someone gave me is before floating again use the opportunity to replace things like belts and impellers with new ones and if the old ones are in good shape use those for backups. Better to keep things as new as possible and use old for emergencies instead of waiting until the old ones fail under use.