Long Term Storage/Refit

[SeaSloth]

I'm considering moving my boat (Brewer 42) inland to my home so I can do some semi-major work on it. I just can't get down to it enough (3 hours away) to get the projects and maintenance done.

My concern is how to keep the it in good shape while it is out of the water. Ideally I will have very large carport to put it under but that isn't a given.

What do I need to do to protect the systems while it is in the yard for several (probably 5 or 6) years.

By systems I mean
Batteries
Drive Train (Yanmar diesel)
Roller furlings
AC
Refrigeration
Heads
Various pumps
Rigging and Mast and Sails
Electronics (auto pilot, radar)
anything else I'm not thinking about.

Any advice would be very welcome.

Thanks

[bletso]

The main thing is to get it covered and protect the deck and fittings from the environment. Any of the systems you will not be using, moth ball them. Yanmar will have a procedure for long term lay up of the engine. If in freezing climate, this is very important as water freeze/thaw cycles will destroy mountains. I had to remove and re-seat my sail track on the mizzen mast and boom.

Make sure she is supported so she doesn't deform too much.

I have been working on Vigah for 4 years. Extensive refit. Learned an awful lot.

As she is to be on the hard, make it easy to get in and out of her. http://69.89.27.238/~sailboa1/wp-con.../10/cover3.jpg
Borrowed this from a customer. Ladders are not the way to go.

I am lucky as it is at my place of business and have a forklift to do the heavy lifting.

Good luck

[Cheechako]

-Remove the sails and store somewhere dry.
-Spray the engine intake with fogger when shutting it down the last time.
-I would try to flush out the cutlass/packing with fresh water, blow out with air if you can. Salt in there can create corrosion on the shaft.
-If it gets real cold where you are drain the fresh water systems completely.
-Your batteries may just be throw away after 5-6 years, but you can leave a trickle charger on them and see how they do.
-A tent of PVC pipe and tarps are a good idea, much easier working and not worrying about leaks and water build up.
-beware cockpit drains can clog up with leaves etc pretty fast, If you are on the boat often not a big deal if not... think about that.
-Tape over the tank vent fittings to keep bees/daubers from building nests in those and clogging them up.

[bletso]

Don't use PVC tubing if it gets cold and windy. The first big cold blow and well it will snap. The final solution I came across here on CF. Use cheap EMT conduit and the "Kover" clamp system from defender. It was actually cheaper than PVC.
Defender.com Search Results: kover klamps

Advantage of the EMT route is you don't need central support pillars. It withstood 60 mph winds though a freak storm with 70 mph brought it down, but EMT is cheap and easy to repair. No glue, just 7/16 and 1/2 socket.

You can see three different methods I have used. http://69.89.27.238/~sailboa1/2013/1...tecting-vigah/

[SV Siren]

I will have to second what Cheechako says.

I too am just beginning the refit/restoration process. Honestly I look at most of my systems, and frankly most of them are crap, and will be replaced in the end time frame of the refit. Electronics might not be worth worrying about, especially if they are already older than the hills. Batteries will need to be replaced closer to launch as well.

I made the conscious effort to enclose the deck, with a very elaborate pvc frame that is also secured with wires on turnbuckles that stop all lateral movement of the frame. I wanted to be able to stand upright, and also be able to withstand wind and Michigan winter snowfall. If I had my druthers I would have put up a Stimson shed, but I did not have the room to do it. I attached the pvc frame and greenhouse wiggle wire right to the caprail, as I plan to replace that anyways. It works really well, and keep all the elements out, and makes it much easier to work outdoors on the boat year around.

Any questions about the frame and such please feel free to message me.

Shrink wrapped frame, it's very tight and does not move at all.
[IMG]Untitled by Scott Ehrich, on Flickr[/IMG]

After shrink wrapping. I used wiggle wire attached to the caprail so that I could paint the hull without anything in the way.
[IMG]Untitled by Scott Ehrich, on Flickr[/IMG]

A stimson shed

[SeaSloth]

Thanks for the replies. That is very helpful. I've been struggling to figure out an inexpensive way to cover the boat. I'd settled on a steel RV carport but I'm going to look more into the Stimson shed. It may prove to be too hot inside during the summer. I'm in NC so I don't have to worry about a lot of high winds and heavy snow but do have to think about weeks of almost 100 degree days in August.

Even if I don't build one of those for the boat I might put one up for the garden.

I might cry if the batteries end up worthless. I opted for expensive AGM batteries 'cause I planned on using them for many years before replacing. I've been very careful to keep them topped off too, thought the current yard I'm keeping it in doesn't seem to care as much as I often find the AC disconnected. I had intended to hook up a AC connection at the boat so I could keep them topped off while the boat was in storage (and have AC power on the boat).

I have to remind myself that if I'm keeping this thing on the hard for 5 years it isn't like things will stop depreciating. It may be slower than sitting in a marine environment but rubber hoses will still deteriorate, seacocks will seize if I don't exercise them and many other things will have to still be taken care of.

[SV Siren]

if you want to see a fellow sailors stimson shed, this guy has a nice write-up on his, along with video of it during a hurricane.

The bow roof shed made of white pine and greenhouse plastic

For added ventilation I would suggest installing a greenhouse fan, you can pick them up off craigslist sometimes for around $100 used, they pull a TON of air through.

[SeaSloth]

Originally Posted by Land Cruiser

if you want to see a fellow sailors stimson shed, this guy has a nice write-up on his, along with video of it during a hurricane.

The bow roof shed made of white pine and greenhouse plastic

For added ventilation I would suggest installing a greenhouse fan, you can pick them up off craigslist sometimes for around $100 used, they pull a TON of air through.

I'm going to have to talk to the designer. The site suggests no larger than 20' but I don't think that is going to be wide enough to accommodate the 13' beam at deck level since the shelter roof comes in at the top. Once I get the plans I'll be able to calculate the clearance though.

Once I get too large though it won't be much more expensive to put up a steel carport. People in my area love to have places to park their big RVs so that would be a selling point for the house for later on.

[Rhapsody-NS27]

If you have space, I'd suggest a bow-roof shed, the stimson mentioned above. Keeps weather out, keeps the cover off the boat, and you have full access all around.

Stimson Marine - Bow-Roof Shed

I first saw it in use on this page: Far Reach Voyages Home Page

[SV Siren]

I have the same dilemma when looking at Stimson sheds. The beam on my boat is 12 feet, and the way it tapers in as the height gets higher can be a problem. One of my thoughts were to sink some 4 x 4's in the ground to put the sill in that, rather than have the sill at ground level. That way you would be able to carry the full width up off the ground.

[SeaSloth]

Do you know why he doesn't recommend any wider than 20'? I did some Googling and that seems to be the conventional wisdom online.

Someone recommended digging a trough for the keel so the boat would be lower. That is an idea but then I can't get to the keel to work on the glass there and I'd have to make sure the pit stays pumped out.

[SV Siren]

Originally Posted by SeaSloth

Do you know why he doesn't recommend any wider than 20'? I did some Googling and that seems to be the conventional wisdom online.

Someone recommended digging a trough for the keel so the boat would be lower. That is an idea but then I can't get to the keel to work on the glass there and I'd have to make sure the pit stays pumped out.

I never found out why 20' seems to be the magic number when it comes to width maximum..I hate to speculate, but stability might be part of it.

Digging a trough...I have seen it done. There are a few other things you should consider if you are thinking about going this route. How will you get the boat to the house, I mean standard tractor trailer, or a self unloading hydraulic trailer. You cannot use a hydraulic trailer and unload into a pit. A standard trailer will need a crane to lift it off the trailer to unload, either onto the ground or into a pit. If you do go with a pit, how will you support the boat. If you use regular stands, once you remove the boat, the stands wont work due to the fact that your boat is not in the pit. Nobody rents them offsite from their marina, so you would have to buy them, even used they are $75 to $100 each, unless you can find a great deal on them.

Personally I went without a pit(no choice), and my boat transport company was selling used stands relatively cheap, so I bought 10 of them. I will never have to rent during our winters ever again. I like the idea of a stimson shed over the entire boat, I doubt that you would not be able to recoup most of your building costs by selling it when you are done, assuming that it would be in great shape. People use them for greenhouses all the time.
Hopefully a few others will chime in with their thoughts.

[SeaSloth]

Some good points. I like your idea of elevating the sill. I think that is the solution that would work best for me. I could also put some foundation vents in the knee wall to encourage air flow from bottom to top to keep the heat and moisture down.

Thanks for the advice.