Low tech topside paint

[HeywoodJ]

Originally Posted by Bowdrie

PPG makes a large range of both one- and two-part paints/primers that are quite suitable for a "20 foot" paint job....

I will second Bowdrie's recommendation of PPG products, I have used several Amercoat products on work boats and liked them all.

I assume, Chotu, that epoxy paints are out? My current goto is Benjamin Moore's Corotech series. Their V400 makes a very nice finish if not quite yacht like:

Polyamide Epoxy Coating is a multi-use epoxy designed for tanks, machinery, floors, structural members, walls, boats, and other industrial and commercial substrates requiring a durable coating in severe environments. Floors: moderate- to heavy-duty performance in commercial/industrial environments exposed to heavy foot traffic and occasional traffic of lightweight rubber-tired vehicles, intermittent spillage of mild to heavier chemicals, occasional steam and chemical cleaning. Metal: excellent for use on ferrous metals, non-ferrous metals and galvanized metal.

Highly cross-linked film for toughness and durability
Resists many chemicals and solvents
Medium build epoxy
Suitable for immersion
Suitable for use in USDA inspected facilities
For helpful information, check out our tools and resources page
Colorant Used: Industrial

BM's V160 Epoxy Mastic (and Jotun's Jotamastic outside the US) is the bomb for engine rooms, workrooms, and other spaces where you want something easy to clean, but stands up to abuse and poor prep.

With either of these you must find a commercial account to use. If you have to pay full retail you will be at the same cost as "yacht" paint, but with a commercial account of the right kind you should see discounts greater than 50% from retail.

Another "industrial marine" line is Sherwin Williams Pro-Line. Our two-boats-ago boat is still nearby and has a 15-year-old Pro-Line LPU job that still passes the 20-foot test. https://industrial.sherwin-williams.....10656357.html

[Chotu]

Yes, I’d definitely prefer to stay clear if epoxy and Franziska is understanding the objective here. Very much so. This is a boat that doesn’t see marinas. At all.

Definitely not a dockside queen. Occasionally touches a fuel dock for 10-15 mins

[Chotu]

From the SDS on Sherwin Williams proline:

“ Persons with a history of skin sensitization problems or asthma, allergies or chronic or recurrent respiratory disease should not be employed in any process in which this product is used.”

This statement is valid for ALL diisocyanate (polyurethane) paints, not just Sherwin Williams.

So let’s focus on the toxicity factor a bit now, as I don’t want to compromise my heath further and destroy my life both on and off the water. I’m finally almost perfectly healthy again.

How about paints free of diisocyanate and aliphatic amines (epoxy)?

[Chotu]

Oh no. I guess the diisocyanate/aliphatic amine restriction killed the thread?

Anyone know what the toughest paint without those chemistries is?

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by Chotu

Oh no. I guess the diisocyanate/aliphatic amine restriction killed the thread?

Anyone know what the toughest paint without those chemistries is?

It seems to pretty much rule out anything epoxy based and at least a lot of 2 part paints. 1 part stuff will typically be ok, albeit with reduced longevity compared to the 2 part stuff in most cases.

Exposure-wise, what does it take for you to manage the diisocyanate concerns if you're rolling rather than spraying the paint? I'd expect respirator, gloves and the tyvek suit, right?

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by rslifkin

It seems to pretty much rule out anything epoxy based and at least a lot of 2 part paints. 1 part stuff will typically be ok, albeit with reduced longevity compared to the 2 part stuff in most cases.

Exposure-wise, what does it take for you to manage the diisocyanate concerns if you're rolling rather than spraying the paint? I'd expect respirator, gloves and the tyvek suit, right?

I’ll stick to the SDS advice rather than manage that risk.

If I’ve learned anything at all building boats, it’s that the SDS should be followed with all materials. Ignore it at your own peril.

So I think 1 part it is.

Maybe that will narrow things down a bit at least and maybes there are some good 1 part industrial paints that are available everywhere

[Chotu]

So this looks like the summary of the situation:


Toxic (disocyanates):

*Usual marine paints (awlgrip, automotive paints, etc)
*Adding the additives to other paints
(not always good to roll)

Less toxic:

*brightsides
*rustoleum
*etc

Problems: The less toxic paints do not have proper color matching. From what I can tell. Is that correct?

Wildcard: sherwin-Williams can provide any level of paint I want and properly color match it to any sample I bring in.

Additional wildcard: 10 years after application, Home Depot exterior latex house paint looks just fine. I won’t say it’s glossy, but it hasn’t fallen off or broken down in any way. Which really makes me wonder if there are a lot of alternatives that we don’t consider for some reason

[rslifkin]

In terms of color matching, some paints may not have an off the shelf color that matches. But depending on what the paint can be tinted with, a paint shop might be able to take the white version and tint it to the color you need.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by rslifkin

In terms of color matching, some paints may not have an off the shelf color that matches. But depending on what the paint can be tinted with, a paint shop might be able to take the white version and tint it to the color you need.

Ah. Ok.

I’m assuming that’s what Sherwin-Williams does. Because they can take any paint they have and color match it. Perfectly. By computer.

[robert sailor]

Color matching “white” is the hardest to do really well….getting close is easy but dead on is more luck than good management.

[Happ]

Everyone I know uses Kiwi Grip. They roll it on and then take a sander and and sand it down to the level of grip you want. The guys I know do it in their backyards.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by Happ

Everyone I know uses Kiwi Grip. They roll it on and then take a sander and and sand it down to the level of grip you want. The guys I know do it in their backyards.

For the topsides? Seems a little strange.

[Bill O]

Didn't you read the new trends, the textured look is "in"!

[Chotu]

Ha ha ha.

But actually wait a second here. Kiwi grip.

That’s a good example of a paint like I am trying to talk about here. You roll that thing on the deck and it holds up basically forever right?

I don’t know from experience because I took two-part linear polyurethane and I rolled that on the deck with cabosil mixed in to make my own Kiwigrip. It was like 1/20 of the cost and stronger


But Aren’t there some topside paints like kiwigrip? Maybe that’s what Brightsides is?

[Bill O]

We rolled Kiwigrip inside of a dock box with minimal texture. Tough stuff.

Brightside is cheap, easy to put on and may need several coats to get a good film thickness. Unfortunately it scratches easily. If you want to go over it w/a 2 part later, it all needs to be removed.