Low tech topside paint

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by TeddyDiver

I've used industrial 2k polyurethane paint. Roller appliable, more colors than marine paints. Repaintable unlike some marine brands. Did I say a lot cheaper..

Yes. My boat has both Nason which is an automotive paint and Imron which everyone knows.

They have held up great for about a decade almost now. The thing is…. So did the Home Depot exterior latex on the dagger boards. Lol which is why I started the thread

But I’m trying to get away from those toxic things.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by charliepsycho

As with all new paints... Do a test area first. I would give it a light sanding first (120/240 grit) The trick is to put it on thin and use many layers (I use a little sprayer and compressor that does 100ml at a time)

The thing with exterior household gloss is that it is designed to take abuse and remain UV stable. It sticks like sh!t to a blanket and is tolerant of muppets applying it to unsuitable surfaces! So it's perfect for me!

That does it. I’m going to try a little patch. Nothing to lose. I can always stand it off and start over if I don’t like it. It’s just a test area.

Don’t think I will be near a Home Depot or Lowe’s anytime soon it will probably have to be ace or true value paint to test.

In terms of spraying it, the best I could probably do is an airless sprayer at this point. I don’t have a home bass shop like that with a compressor anymore. I said goodbye to the compressor when the boat launched. So simple muppet rolling is where I’m trying to be. Ha ha

[Num1fireman]

ALEXSEAL!!! For the win! They have a rolling additive than is a GAME changer. My wife and I painted our mast as a test of the paint in February. To see how the material works before dropping the $$$ for enough to t do the whole boat. The paint is easy to apply.. Long pot time,, flows beautifully.. very forgiving paint. IT’s repairable, and easy to blend.. I was am still truly impressed… not on the cheap side, more middleish.. but all roll no tip by an amateur like me…… well… whattya think?

[glenn.225]

I have not heard of ALEXSEAL before, so I Googled it. At $500 Cdn a gallon, it should paint itself.

Sent from my SM-A536W using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[foufou]

Have you tried Polane by Sherwin Wlliams? It's a commercial two part polyurethane that lasts close to forever. I used some on a metal roof in 1978 and it is still on there. Maybe not quite as shiny but that is 45 years ago!

[Rucksta]

Chotu

Try these guys


boatcraft.com.au

"In contrast to their solvent based counterparts, Aquacote polyurethane topcoats contain no di-isocyanates. The presence of di-isocyanates has resulted in the use of conventional polyurethanes being banned in many locations because of their toxic effects. Aquacote now offers all users the benefits of a polyurethane coating without detrimental health problems."

They also make a water based epoxy

[s/v Jedi]

I’m afraid Brightside is a polyurethane as well, so that’s a no go.

All marine paints are repaintable. People who claim contrary are confused. Some paints, like original Awlgrip topcoat are said to be “not repairable” because they “can’t be buffed out”. The thing is that their topcoat is the absolute toughest and best on the market, so it resists buffing until it doesn’t which means you removed it and are left with a substrate that isn’t as durable and needs to be repainted for protection.

No, Home Depot external gloss paint will not last 10 years in an outdoors marine environment. I put this in my exterior doors in Florida 5 years ago and need to repaint it all. If you touch it, it leaves a chalky residue on your fingers and mildew gets in the paint that has become porous.

No, Rustoleum will not last 10 years in an outdoors marine environment. I put this on one exterior door early this year to fix the Home Depot paint problem and can already see deterioration now. It is better than the latex paints though and I do use it for the boat interior.

If two part paints are out, then I think only the one part marine polyurethanes are left like Petit Easypoxy, Interlux Brightside etc. I guess a suit and cartridge respirator will have to do or else just repaint latex every year or two, like varnish.

[Markusm]

After having the Imron finish, I suspect you'd be disappointed if you elected to paint the boat with house paint. I think most industrial paint nowadays is 2 part polyurethane with its problematic (for you) chemistries. Sherwin Williams makes a line of (comparatively) inexpensive 2 part urethanes under its pro-line brand. I use pro-line 4800 to paint the deck on my charter boat and its currently a little over $100, gallon. It can be brushed and tipped, but the finish in glossy flat areas (hull), is not as good as alexseal for rolling and brushing, although you will get good gloss and longevity. I think the vast majority f this paint is made in the haze grey color, and the navy's ships seem to last a long time between paint jobs.

We use pro-line 3000 epoxy as our sandable primer and have had good luck with it, even when using Alexseal as a topcoat.

Pro-line also has an extensive line of enamels available, but you will probably be quite disappointed in the longevity of the results, and if you want to go back to a 2 part system, you will have to remove all of the enamel, or you will eventually have paint coming off in big sheets. Either stick with the proven chemistries and safety equipment, or resign yourself to the fact that your boat will never look as nice as it used to.

Unfortunately all of the better primer systems are epoxy based because they work well.

One of the tug companies here in town still uses enamel paint on their tugs, and they look pretty nice, but they have full time crews and are always painting sections of the boat if they are at the dock. They probably use urethane on the hull, but are constantly touching up decks, and equipment on deck.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

I’m afraid Brightside is a polyurethane as well, so that’s a no go.

All marine paints are repaintable. People who claim contrary are confused. Some paints, like original Awlgrip topcoat are said to be “not repairable” because they “can’t be buffed out”. The thing is that their topcoat is the absolute toughest and best on the market, so it resists buffing until it doesn’t which means you removed it and are left with a substrate that isn’t as durable and needs to be repainted for protection.

No, Home Depot external gloss paint will not last 10 years in an outdoors marine environment. I put this in my exterior doors in Florida 5 years ago and need to repaint it all. If you touch it, it leaves a chalky residue on your fingers and mildew gets in the paint that has become porous.

No, Rustoleum will not last 10 years in an outdoors marine environment. I put this on one exterior door early this year to fix the Home Depot paint problem and can already see deterioration now. It is better than the latex paints though and I do use it for the boat interior.

If two part paints are out, then I think only the one part marine polyurethanes are left like Petit Easypoxy, Interlux Brightside etc. I guess a suit and cartridge respirator will have to do or else just repaint latex every year or two, like varnish.

Pointing out that polyurethane is not a problem. The problem has to do with isocyanates. Brightsides has none


https://www.merrittsupply.com/wp-con...Brightside.pdf

[Chotu]

I got a little test kit of exterior paint for my dagger board. Might as well try it there since it already has like 10 year old exterior house paint that is fine.

Very easy to repaint also. Since it’s right there on the deck.

[Bowdrie]

I'm posting this "tongue-in-cheek", but it doesn't get more "low tech" than what was common a few generations ago.
1, Empty a quart of White Lead into a larger clean container.
2, Add clean/filtered Turpentine and mix well to a heavy brushing consistency.
3, Add ~2>3 heaping tablespoons of Titanium Dioxide, mix well.
4, Add ~2 teaspoons of Japan Drier, mix well.
Now you got some real enamel, just add 100% mineral spirits to get the brushing consistency you want.
Best applied over a good primer base.
Don't let kids chew on the paint.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by Bowdrie

I'm posting this "tongue-in-cheek", but it doesn't get more "low tech" than what was common a few generations ago.
1, Empty a quart of White Lead into a larger clean container.
2, Add clean/filtered Turpentine and mix well to a heavy brushing consistency.
3, Add ~2>3 heaping tablespoons of Titanium Dioxide, mix well.
4, Add ~2 teaspoons of Japan Drier, mix well.
Now you got some real enamel, just add 100% mineral spirits to get the brushing consistency you want.
Best applied over a good primer base.
Don't let kids chew on the paint.

You know, that’s actually really cool. Thank you for posting that. I never knew that that’s how they made paint way back.

Is that white-washing like the Tom Sawyer fence?

Maybe the barnacles can chew on it. Ha ha

I spent a good amount of time today talking with the paint expert at the hardware store. And he knew his stuff. I got the most durable highest gloss exterior paint that isn’t boat paint. Just regular home paint.

I have a visitor coming shortly so I’m not sure if I will get that done before she arrives or not. But, within the next couple weeks I will get it on the dagger board. It’s going to be a bit tricky because my base has to be one of the ‘esters also.

So I am really going to be testing some crazy stuff out. Things people say you should never do. I’ll skim- fair the hurricane damage out of the boards with ‘esters since I can’t sand what’s already there (epoxy). Then I’ll apply this exterior high gloss and see what happens.

Should be a good experiment without experimenting on the topsides

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by Chotu

I got a little test kit of exterior paint for my dagger board. Might as well try it there since it already has like 10 year old exterior house paint that is fine.

Very easy to repaint also. Since it’s right there on the deck.

For speed and ease we used self priming water based exterior acrylic/latex on our roof and funnel, eaves and extensive rails.

Would I recommend it? Yes, no, maybe
Minimum prep and no primer
It solved a problem at the time and 7 years later is still doing its job with no real sign of fail.

[oceane]

you should look into and do research on elastomeric paint...!!!..???

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by oceane

you should look into and do research on elastomeric paint...!!!..???

Just took a look. That stuff looks great for the interior.