My Coach Top Handrails are rotting

[heron237]

I can't replace them with over the counter ones because the loop schedule between attachment points is not the same, and they're around eighty inches long. Am I fabricating from a blank

[bil56]

or you replace this handrail with a stainless steel tube on plastic (or wooden) blocks
and no more maintenance!

[Calif.Ted]

There are vendors who will make custom grabrails from teak or Starboard, here's one came up on a search. I've seen others in the past, but can't recall who.
https://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-re...ails-78in-wide
https://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-re...ls-1-38in-wide

[heron237]

Bil I entertained the thought of going the tube way for about a minute, too ugly but really sturdy...... Ted thanks for the link, tried to input all the dimensions but couldn't get a proper quote, once I figure that out, I'll decide whether it makes sense, financially to have them make them vs. me fabricating them from meranti from my local lumberyard.

[coopec43]

I was surorised you used Merant in the US. But


'"Meranti (Shorea spp.) is a tropical hardwood grown in South East Asia, such as Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia"

What are the disadvantages of meranti timber?
One of the main disadvantages of Meranti wood is its low rot-resistance and insect susceptibility. Meranti wood is reported to be moderately durable to non-durable in regard to decay resistance, and it is prone to attack by fungi, termites, and marine borers .31 Jan 2024

If you bought an el cheapo router ($A42) you could make them up yourself.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/14492109...Bk9SR8bM1sHHYw

[Bowdrie]

Besides Teak, suitable woods would include Afromosia and Black Locust.
Get a wide board, mark a straight line down the middle.
Where the "loops" go you use a hole-saw from both sides so as to not splinter the wood.
Now you just have to cut straight lines between the holes.
Then use the router to round off everything.
Then just by sawing the length of the board down the middle line you'll have two identical parts that are book matched.
Trying to cut-out individual loops with a jigsaw is a road to frustration and poor results.
Make them thicker than the ones you buy, 1-1/8 is none too thick, make the pads, (the solid part between the loops,) a bit longer, it makes a much stronger rail and allows for minor inaccuracy in the fastener locations.
Almost all of the wood rails you see on boats are thin/weak/undersized, make yours such that you know they can save your life.

[massnspace]

1” STARBOARD. I use black color. Cheap, attractive, easy to machine, zero maintenance, lasts decades….

Remove your old wood ones, clamp to STARBOARD, rout a perfect replacement, throw wood away…

[Cheechako]

They are hard to keep finished for sure. For that reason I would avoid wood.

BUT, how about just replacing the bottom 1" or so? Saw off the rotten bottom evenly with a table saw and fence, glue on new teak shaped to the old rail. Drill and install!
Or maybe replace that bottom 1" or so with starboard!

[Franziska]

Iroko would be a good choice too. It even gets that weathered teak finish if not painted...

[heron237]

It's too hard to cut through 2½"s with a jib saw, although I have a fine one. So I would cut one trace and transfer to the second piece, I had some extra Ipe from a pergola, but I sold it... and it's too hard for easy "machining"

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by heron237

It's too hard to cut through 2½"s with a jib saw,

Why do you believe you have to cut 2-1/2" thick stock?

[heron237]

Pergola, had a drill press for the plugs of the few fasteners that I couldn't do blind or hide, to make that front span I used the smallest size and wrapped in Ipe

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by heron237

Pergola

I would suggest that "Pergola" has nothing to do with handrails.

[rognvald]

Go stainless. Be done with the madness.
Rognvald

[OldManMirage]

I can't really tell from the picture what level of "rot" we are talking about. Is it actual structural rot or just wear and tear kind of aging ?

If it's rotted of course it must be replaced. If it's just wear and tear it might be worthwhile to coat it with some TotalBoat penetrating epoxy.

Teak is a wonderful amazing wood that lasts quite a while but it is not indestructible. Years of weathering and sanding and scrubbing can definitely reduce it to fraction of its original self.

My handrails and coaming tops are still ok but I am planning to do the cardinal sin of painting them. I no longer desire to put the time and effort into trying to keep them varnished or any other substitute sealer. I'm going to give them one last light sanding and them prime them and paint them.

And be done ! Lol, I can move on to other projects !!