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bucky · 20-01-2012, 22:45

will haul out this spring for the first time, looking for input on items to inspect, maintain, overhaul, etc.

1974 29' fg mono. finner w/ skag hung rudder. 4 bronze thru hulls, 2 transducers. ob aux.

plan to have the boat on the hard for about a week

planned:

pro clean and paint. looking for guidance on paint. boat used as rec day sailer, 50 degree salt water. currently has ? ablative. last paint fall '09.

drop rudder, inspect, seems to have a lot of slop. will i have to have custom bushings made, what am i in for?

re-seat thru hulls? no problems so far but nothing known of previous
maintenance.

valves. current are all frozen composite/plastic. rebuild or replace?

transducers: how do i clean them [marine growth], abrasives, solvents, ? i assume they should not be painted.

keel: check fit to hull, bolts, ?

hull: no blistering visable when purchased on hard, i'm thinking this is pre blister period fg.

what have i missed?

all advice offered will be greatly appriciated

bucky

MarkSF · 20-01-2012, 23:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by bucky

will haul out this spring for the first time, looking for input on items to inspect, maintain, overhaul, etc.

1974 29' fg mono. finner w/ skag hung rudder. 4 bronze thru hulls, 2 transducers. ob aux.

plan to have the boat on the hard for about a week

planned:

pro clean and paint. looking for guidance on paint. boat used as rec day sailer, 50 degree salt water. currently has ? ablative. last paint fall '09.

drop rudder, inspect, seems to have a lot of slop. will i have to have custom bushings made, what am i in for?

re-seat thru hulls? no problems so far but nothing known of previous
maintenance.

valves. current are all frozen composite/plastic. rebuild or replace?

transducers: how do i clean them [marine growth], abrasives, solvents, ? i assume they should not be painted.

keel: check fit to hull, bolts, ?

hull: no blistering visable when purchased on hard, i'm thinking this is pre blister period fg.

what have i missed?

all advice offered will be greatly appriciated

bucky

Is the exact model of your boat a secret?

Is the ablative working well where you are? If so you might as well stick with what you know.

On the valves, the actual price for the best ones, which are the Groco flanged bronze ball valves, is $60 to $150, depending on the size. In other words there's absolutely no point and very little financial return in going for anything cheaper. I just had 3 valves and a through hull for the speed transducer changed, and it cost me 6 hours labour plus about $300 for the valves and other bits and pieces.

matauwhi · 20-01-2012, 23:26

G'day, mate. Good list. I would include pulling the engine heat exchanger if you have one and make sure none of the tubes are blocked. If you have an adjustable packing gland for your prop shaft, make sure you have ample adjustment left. Likewise, I would stick with the ablative antifoul. Going on 4 years since our last bottom paint with ablative. All the best. Cheers.

bucky · 20-01-2012, 23:28

thanks mark
boat is an alan gurney competition 1000 1/2 ton built in the sf bay area. as best as i can tell there where only 6 built. boat did not perform as a racer but is wicked fun day sailer for $3000.
B

bucky · 20-01-2012, 23:34

thanks NZ
yamaha clamp-on provides the aux duties.
B

captain58sailin · 20-01-2012, 23:43

When you pull the through hulls take a close look at where the threaded part meets the bell end, I did a refit once and found 4 out of 5 through hulls had cracks, they were all bronze. Depending on your vessel's performance, I would consider having the prop worked over and balanced, and pull the shaft and insure that it is true, most machine shops can tell you quickly if the shaft is still true, also look for wear on the shaft at the cutlass bearing point and the packing gland point, replace the cutlass bearing and renew the shaft packing in the gland, remove the old packing and put in new.