New Seacock install - Sequence of Installation? Help.

[tkeithlu]

I correctly stand corrected on the 4200 goo. A high quality silicone would be a better choice, because you might want to remove it sometime in the future. Get the stuff that is rated for "30 years" because it has less water in it and will shrink less as it dries.

[s/v Jedi]

You would do good by ignoring almost everything written in this thread!

Good thru-hull fittings have two ridges inside which allow you to thread it in from the outside using a special tool or a small wrench that fit inside. Without the elbow fitted on top, you can even do that through the open ball valve from inside when this is a full flow valve.

You have to make sure that you don’t press all the epoxy from under the backing plate when attaching it. It needs to be parallel with the outside hull surface so you can’t use multiple spacers either.
I use some small <= 1/16” rubber pieces (cured 5200 cut in bits) and dry fit to find best position, then superglue them in place before covering with the epoxy. When you screw the hull fitting in, the rubber gives a bit. For some tension to keep the thru hull fitting flat against the hull.

I agree with others that it’s better to carve some of the bulkhead away to allow screwing the elbow onto the valve afterwards. A drum sander attachment for hand drill would work. Make sure to paint it afterwards.