New table varnishing tips.

[Hoohaa]

I am having trouble getting the finish I want on my new table. I am at 6 coats and still getting what I call dry spots. Any Ideas??

[Hoohaa]

The 2nd pic shows what I am on about.

[Emmalina]

Didn't take it back to bare wood did we !
Light sand and persevere Table tops usually get 10-15 coats for me

[s/v Jedi]

I think that wood was varnished before... not new. There is still old varnish there or some other contamination like silicone oil.

You don’t want to hear this but instead of trying to fix this, I would start over. Sand down to bare wood, then wet it with a rag with thinner to see if it’s all nice clean wood.

Who makes that varnish? I would use Epifanes gloss, thin the first coat 50% and rub it in the bare wood. Thin 2nd coat 20% and this should cover everywhere without those spots.

[JPA Cate]

I have also seen that happen when it was too hot, or when the freshly varnished timber got in the sun. Jim calls it "blushing."

Are the holidays always in the same place? If so, that would point to the need to take it all the way back and start over. Also, be really careful to give good 'tooth" to the sanding before application.

If you decide to go back to bare wood, consider using clear LPU, and spraying it. It will give a super finish that will last for years.

Ann

[Uncle Bob]

Hi, I have had good results with monocell gold but I had to thin it about 10% and apply in the shade or cooler conditions. 8 to 10 coats with a light sand between coats worked for me on a small table that I made.

[Hoohaa]

The table top was cut out of a larger Ply table, the top laminate was Australian Jarah and I did take it back to bare timber.
I am not anal enough to start over but will definitely continue with the additional coats (thanks Emmaliner).
Jp. The Holidays? are not always in the same place after each coat. So maybe its my tecniche?
Also, Its a little cold here at night when I have done some of the coats, down to almost 7 or 8 deg.
Is there any advantage in adding some thinners to the varnish?
Jedi. Its a very high quality varnish here in Aus so I havn't skimped there.
Thanks for the the replies so far.
Jeff

[Hoohaa]

Good to see you still around Bob.

[JPA Cate]

Hooha,

You need to keep one wet edge while you're working. I'm wondering if the underlying cause might be the lighting? Jim usually uses a very bright light (aging eyes) as he's working. He also uses a good brush, not the disposable ones.

Since you had it back to bare wood, and the holidays are in different places, yes, I would look at technique, too. Work with the grain of the jarrah, and from one side to another, smooth and easy, and plenty of varnish. One of my mistakes is to try and make it go too far.

Ann

[Hoohaa]

Thanks.
Get my eyes checked.
Do you think I should add thinners?

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by Hoohaa

Thanks.
Get my eyes checked.
Do you think I should add thinners?

Absolutely! As I said I thinned it by about 10%, could have been a little more, and as Ann said, keep a wet edge. Oh, and a fairly dust free location helps achieve that good final finnish.

[chowdan]

Once you start getting your coats built up(great advice from Anne and Bob), I've found that wet sanding between final coats helps get the mirror finish

[Jim Cate]

I'm surprised that no one has mentioned adding some Penetrol to your varnish. I have found it to make flow-out better and tenacity maybe better. I use around 20%, not very critical... a bit more in cooler wx.

Snobs view this as cheating... but i need all the help I can get!

Jim

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

I'm surprised that no one has mentioned adding some Penetrol to your varnish. I have found it to make flow-out better and tenacity maybe better. I use around 20%, not very critical... a bit more in cooler wx.

Snobs view this as cheating... but i need all the help I can get!

Jim

Jim, I have never tried this, doe's it make a definite difference or just marginal ? Normally if I am not happy with the finnish I just wait, sand and recoat.

[SailRedemption]

You're varnishing a pretty horizontal surface so no need to worry about runs or sags. Get a level if you want it perfect. Try to keep the brush full with varnish, as in not dragging it across the can or cup. You should be able to see those dry spots when you're brushing, when you do use more varnish in that spot. It's from trying to stretch out what's in your brush. I'd also recommend a very good natural bristle brush like a Carona or similar. When you get an area wet going from dry to wet, go over the area with long strokes to even it out but don't over do it. Also, 7*c is pretty chilly for varnish. It makes it thicker and harder to work which may be your main problem for the dry spots. Try heating your space up a little when you varnish and while the varnishing is drying.