Nibbler? Or Dremel Router? Cutting Alu Instrument Panel

[Terra Nova]

The router base rides on top of the template, with the bushing guided by the inside edge of the template cutout, which is made a little larger than the required panel opening, to account for the difference in cutter and bushing diameters. Net photos show template and bushing.

[Cheechako]

By the time you make the router template you could have cut the rectangle in the aluminum and be done. Remember guys... he's doing this ONCE. :>)

[Reefmagnet]

Originally Posted by Brewgyver

It's not the type of Aluminum that's the problem, it's using the wrong type of cutting disc.

Indeed, that's why I specifically mentioned thin, 1mm cutting disks on a 4" grinder.

Originally Posted by a64pilot

Yes, if you use a regular bench grinder for example on a piece of aluminum, it can clog up the grinding wheel and make it explode, I bust enough of those little disks on a Dremel I've learned to not put my face in the path of the flying pieces

Hence 4" grinder. Quickest way to clog a bench grinder is to start grinding aluminium. A Dremel is not up to the job of cutting long lengths of 3mm Al sheet.

Originally Posted by hellosailor

OK, Dockhead, time to get serious.


Check out the free CAD software from emachineshop.com or any other online service. Draw a new panel, pick the material you want, select waterjet or laser cut, and let them do all the messy stuff. You'll have a nice custom panel back to you in the next week's mail.


Something any competent machine shop will be able to do too, if you can find one around.

Ding Ding Ding! I'm at present having some 40 mm thick stainless steel water jet cut for an a/p tiller arm and some thinner 2mm flanges cut for a couple of U and J cable swan necks. The accuracy of water jet is amazing to the point even the 1/4" bolt holes of the flanges can be cut. Better than laser, imo, because it it cuts thicker material, cuts cleaner and creates no HAZ or distortion.

By shopping around, my cost including material supply and machining of the tiller clamp was under a quarter of a boat buck, which for these parts is pretty good value.

A good, relatively easy to learn/use free CAD with full DXF compatibility (used by the CNC guys) is QCAD which also happens to be available to suit multiple PC OS's.

[Terra Nova]

It is so easy to cut the rectangular hole in a piece of scrap plywood, which then protects the panel from any scratches.

[chris07732]

I vote for the Dremel with cut off blade or a diamond cut off wheel. Goes a little slow, but completely controllable and can be done with panel in place. Very little vibration, but you do want to set up vacuum for chip control

[Nicholson58]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

I need to mount some more equipment in one of my instrument panels, and I don't really feel like hauling it off again to the metal shop. Surely this is something I can do myself.

The alu is pretty thick -- about 3mm -- and I failed miserably last time, but now I have some new ideas:

1. Router bit on a dremel tool, maybe with the plunge router attachment, straight edge, clamps. Wouldn't this work ok?

2. Nibbler -- something like this: SODIAL(R) Gary Black Double Head Sheet Nibbler Metal Cutter Drill Attachment: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools


What do you guys think? The nibbler shown in 2 attaches to a drill, and is shown in the propaganda doing EXACTLY what I propose to do.

All tips appreciated!

The problem with a router bit for aluminum is that the cutting speed is so high the point of contact will become gummy (heat) and adhere to the tool. The nibbler is the least messy as far as throwing bits of metal but you will need to clean up the cut edges. For this use a file or a carbide router bit in a drill motor to keep the speed down.

Bits - McMaster McMaster-Carr

I don't like Dremmel - too small.

Try this Electric Die Grinder with Long Shaft

The cheap alternative is a 1/4 inch collet panel router from Home Depot.


You could also use a little jig saw. Put tape where you want to cut & mark with pen. The tape will protect the panel surface.

[RaymondR]

Fret saw with the round blades, guide with a small piece of steel clamped where you want the line sawed.

[unclemack]

2 1/2 minutes in shows jigsaw in use cutting metal while clamped upside down.
Narrower blades better for piercing because need smaller drilled holes.

[unclemack]

Start 6 minutes in to see precision possible with scroll saw.

[Sandero]

This OP raises some interesting issues. I formerly (among other things) owned a commercial woodwork business. We had lots of large stationary machinery and work benches, clamps and all manner of portable electric and air tools and cutting bits. With that well equipped shop I was able to fabricate in wood, metal and plastic. I owned the shop when I bought Shiva and was able to fabricate all manner of "things".

About 6 yrs after I got Shiva I sold the biz, gave all my possessions to charity... gathered a few hand tools and sailed south. I was reverted back to a DIYer with skill, understanding technology, but no machinery or shop to work in. So my project became a very big challenge. What could easily be done in the shop... such as Dockhead's project required a new way (old way) of thinking and technology... and even tools. This is extremely frustrating!!!!!!!!!!! I've tried to get some cabinet makers to let me use their shop (for a fee / hrly) but not a single one in 25 years has opened their doors to me and my simple projects. And of course the boat yards which have shops ... scream INSURANCE... NOOOOOOOOOOOOO. This is somewhat understandable.... but why can't a person sign a hold harmless waiver of liability agreement and work at their own risk?

If I had to limit my technology I would get a decent small variable plunge router which I could set upside down into a table with a small fence. Second took would be a small table saw... And of course decent clamps.

I believe I saw a video of some sort of flexible multi tool with could be configured to do all manner of things... It was no a US product but I was thinking this is what boaters need... a complete shop in one flexible tool which mounts to a table/base.

What takes a and hr in a well equipped shop can take a day or more working ON the boat or on the dock. I have a slew of undone projects because I don't have a decent work shop to do them in.

Rant over...

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by unclemack

Never heard it called that in the UK but if it's what we over here call a scroll saw -

Spot on, +1, best tool for that job by a mile.

Scroll saws are built for pierced work like that. Incredibly easy to control and follow a line of any shape.

You move the work not the saw.

Soon as you see a picture you'll get it.

That's not going to work for me as whatever tools I have must be kept on board (I have no land home in the UK). I have a drill press but that's the most I'm willing to have in the way of heavy stationary power tools.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by chris07732

I vote for the Dremel with cut off blade or a diamond cut off wheel. Goes a little slow, but completely controllable and can be done with panel in place. Very little vibration, but you do want to set up vacuum for chip control

That was one of the first things I tried.

The problem I had was I could hold the cutoff wheel perpendicular to the work, because its radius is less than the thickness of the Dremel tool.

I guess I could try the extension drive.

But a diamond cutoff wheel is surely the wrong tool, no? Isn't that for tile?

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by Sandero

. . . What takes a and hr in a well equipped shop can take a day or more working ON the boat or on the dock. I have a slew of undone projects because I don't have a decent work shop to do them in.

Rant over...

This. And why my next boat will have a decent workshop.

Not with multiple stationary power tools, but at least a good workbench with a good vice. All the bloody difference in the world.

[Sandero]

A dremel is not a precision tool... it's for crafts type work.

If you set up a shop onboard.... you'll want a mount to drop a router into the bench top... with a way to secure a fence. Of course dust is a huge problem so you'll need a powerful shop vac too.

There a hundreds of router bits which can do almost anything. Router is the MOST versatile power tool. You can also find rigs to mount a drill and turn it into a mini drill press. But work MUST be clamped and so you'll need all manner of clamps... and hold downs.

A Japanese pull saw is very good as well.

You can usually get plywood cut to size... small enough to work on in a boat. Lumber maybe...

[jimbunyard]

Originally Posted by Sandero

A Japanese pull saw is very good as well.

You read my mind...

Home (Tashiro Hardware)

or try a keyhole saw, bargain priced at Amazon for 5.74 US, with metal and wood cutting blades. (Though a better one will probably give better control)
Stanley 15-275 4-WAY Keyhole Saw - - Amazon.com


1/8" aluminum saws about like 1/4" wood paneling...