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FuneSF · 09-01-2023, 14:52

This is one those boat jobs that is more about aesthetics than function. The current Vetus Non Skid pads on my companionway ladder and platform are fine. But, they look dirty and shabby. Cleaning does not remove the stains and grime. It is always annoying me.

I have managed to source a sheet of the Vetus Non Skid (The company is no longer making it).

Could anybody recommend what is best to use as an adhesive? Would normal contact cement from Home Depot be ok? Or, is it best to use an epoxy compound? Are there any brands that you would recommend?

Vetus does sell a non skid adhesive. But, it is very difficult to get here in the US

**Jammer** · 09-01-2023, 15:49

I would use contact cement. When used as directed on a properly prepared surface, it is extremely strong. I use the DAP brand because it is available locally but I would think that most other brands would be fine.

markxengineerin · 09-01-2023, 16:03

I just did this job, using the exact Vetus material. I used contact cement from the home improvement store. I did not go too close to the edges because it's tough to clean up when it oozes out. Maybe someone knows a good way, but I don't. So where the edges were not bonded, I used gel type superglue, injected in the next day. This is more controllable and the result has been great, no issues with either glue.

FuneSF · 09-01-2023, 17:59

I think I'll go this route.

Two questions about removing the old non-skid. I plan lightly to chisel it off and then sand away the old adhesive. Did you use that route?

I also have the same non skid applied to some of the fiberglass around the edge of my cabin sole. I wondering if that is relatively easy to remove. Did you replace anything like that? I have a large sheet of the non skid and I may want to put the remainder to use in those areas.

markxengineerin · 10-01-2023, 06:14

A heat gun and screwdriver/chisel/scraper type tool should remove the pads and enough of the adhesive. Just be careful of the wood's finish if you use any heat, which may be optional for you. I did not have any on the cabin sole (PSC 37) so can't comment on that. Good luck!

**Jammer** · 10-01-2023, 07:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by FuneSF

I think I'll go this route.

Two questions about removing the old non-skid. I plan lightly to chisel it off and then sand away the old adhesive.

Use heat to remove the old material and then solvent to remove the adhesive. Methylene Chloride works really well but is toxic and most products containing it have been pulled off the market in the last year or two. There are adhesive removers sold in paint and auto body stores that have a combination of solvents that will more or less work. Everything that works is either toxic or flammable so take precautions.

**Jammer** · 10-01-2023, 07:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by markxengineerin

I did not go too close to the edges because it's tough to clean up when it oozes out. Maybe someone knows a good way, but I don't.

You remove it with an eraser as soon as it is dry enough that it won't smear. Or you can just rub it with your fingers. Either way it rolls up into balls.

The longer you wait the harder it is to remove.

MicHughV · 10-01-2023, 07:42

Contact cement works great, but be sure you have everything lined up "perfectly" to ensure the piece is laid out correctly. Best to "dry fit" first.

FuneSF · 10-01-2023, 08:08

Thank you so much for the replies. Got some great information.

somanyboats · 10-01-2023, 11:13

The non-skid looks like it's still in good shape. I would thin out some latex paint in a dark color and paint it on. If you don't like it then you can still remove the non-skid and try some of the other ideas.

FuneSF · 18-01-2023, 15:00

Here's a follow up to the project incase somebody in the future wants to do similar:

1. The heat gun was key to remove the non-skid. If you are patient doing it, you could remove the entire sheet without ripping it and then you could use that as a template.

2. I did not need to use an adhesive solvent. A carbide scraper got most of the old contact cement residue off. I then lightly sanded to remove the remainder.

3. The DAP contact cement from Home Depot worked fine. But, I guess time will tell if it holds up.

4. Using dowels helped a lot when placing the larger sheets. Put a few down to keep the contact cement on the sheet from touching the contact cement on the wood. Once you align and adhere one section of the sheet, remove a dowel and then work on the next section.

Hope this all helps.

**s/v Jedi** · 18-01-2023, 15:06

Looking good. I wonder if the old ones would have cleaned up with TSP…

thinwater · 18-01-2023, 17:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by markxengineerin

I just did this job, using the exact Vetus material. I used contact cement from the home improvement store. I did not go too close to the edges because it's tough to clean up when it oozes out. Maybe someone knows a good way, but I don't....

It is a contact cement. There is no ooze out.

Lay the tread down and mark the outline with a pencil.
Paint the underside of the tread. Paint the step inside the outline.
Allow to dry/tack for the prescribed time.
Place and roll down, as per the instructions. Be careful that you get it right the first time.

The glue will be right to the edge with no liquid to ooze.