Padlocks - Code or Key?

[ColourfulOwl]

What's the thoughts when it comes to using padlocks on a sailboat?

On the boat I'm about to purchase it has a litany of different padlocks for lockers, companionway, outboard and even the liferaft.

Code locks seem like a good idea in theory, but I imagine they are more susceptible to corrosion in the code wheels etc.

Anyone got any recommendations for locks?

[5BTM]

All keyed or coded alike.

[Zanshin]

I had coded locks, but kept needing an extra light and my reading glasses to get the lock open, so have reverted back to keyed locks.

All boat locks will get submerged/drenched in water one day. I give my locks a squirt of WD-40 in the keypath and locking assembly every week or so to keep them moving. But they don't last as long as they would on land - so I don't get ultra-secure and expensive ones.

[CaptTom]

I bought a set of brass (or maybe bronze, I never checked) locks, all keyed alike. They're not expensive, and they hold up to the salt environment surprisingly well.

The one thing I miss is the laminated "Master" brand steel locks often have a rubbery ring at the bottom so they don't leave a mark on the gel coat when you're fiddling with them. I haven't seen a brass lock with that feature. But now that I went and looked, Master does make "outdoor" models of stainless steel. I can't vouch for them, but they're probably worth a try.

[Tortuga's Lie]

I hate carrying around keys, so my main locks are combination style, Abus bronze/brass. The eyesight isn't as sharp as it once was, but if you scroll the digits one direction, they stop at zero, then you can count the notches as you work the combination, you can do this in the dark even but you need to keep it oiled to make sure the digits scroll smoothly.
My companion way and dinghy locks are the combination style. My cockpit lockers are smaller keyed Abus bronze, the key for these locks are on my engine key ring, which I don't have to carry around.

[Orion Jim]

My companionway lock is a Sesamee combination lock, my dinghy motor lock is the same with a long clasp. My cockpit locks are keyed Abus but are rarely used. The combination locks are lightly oiled as needed…usually twice a year. All my combinations are set to be the same for ease of use.

[capt jgw]

I like keyed locks and most can be had in at least a 4 pack keyed alike. If they're packaged so you can see the keys, you can sometimes find more than one pack with the same key. I think the cheaper ones don't have so many different keys so that's easier. I saw a recommendation for code locks, after you open the lock spin the numbers so it's no longer on the code. Sun and weather can tarnish the wheels on the exposed numbers so a bag guy could tell what the code is. And remember locks only keep honest people out. If a bad guy wants in, he'll get in and maybe do more damage than the value of what he stole. A boat got hit in our morning field a while back. They pried the companionway slider off breaking the tracks then threw it overboard. 30 feet of water over 6 or 8 feet of soft mud. There's no getting that back.

[Bill O]

Originally Posted by Zanshin

I had coded locks, but kept needing an extra light and my reading glasses to get the lock open, so have reverted back to keyed locks.

All boat locks will get submerged/drenched in water one day. I give my locks a squirt of WD-40 in the keypath and locking assembly every week or so to keep them moving. But they don't last as long as they would on land - so I don't get ultra-secure and expensive ones.

^^^ Agree with Arnd, except haven't switched back to keyed yet.
Do need a flashlight and glasses in the dark (sucks getting old), unless you are really good at feeling/counting the clicks back to the correct combination.
Lubing them makes them work/click better.

[Zanshin]

I forgot to add that WD-40 is misused as a lubricant in so many applications - but in my opinion this is a perfect example of a proper application for it

[WatchingWaves]

Last winter I spent my first season in the Bahamas for 6 months. Right before I left I bought a Home Depot "outdoor" code lock for my dinghy motor and made sure it was well lubricated. It stayed on the motor, forgotten, until spring when I had to remove it for my return trip. Big mistake.


There was a little corrosion, but mostly it was packed full of salt crystals. It took many hours of careful tapping and wiggling to get the code wheels moving.


As Zanshin said, lubricate and exercise the mechanism often.

[Bill Seal]

Find a way to cover it so it can't be cut off with a battery powered angle grinder

[Bill O]

If they are coming w/an angle grinder, the best you will do is slow them down. Given enough time they will eventually cut through the lock/chain.

[George_SD]

I like using code locks because I never need the key and can always tell someone the code if they need to get something from the boat or locker. Keyed alike is another good way to handle this. I do find that keyed locks are typically more rust resistant (provided you get a marine specific with better corrosion resistance). So just pick what you like.

Both are fairly low security solutions and don't really provide that much protection from those who know locks. In fact, many keyed alike cylinders use fewer pins than keyed different locks, this is because one of the easy ways to make the locks use the same key is to remove one pin that would differentiate them.

[slugsgomoo]

Originally Posted by Zanshin

I forgot to add that WD-40 is misused as a lubricant in so many applications - but in my opinion this is a perfect example of a proper application for it

I think if you start with it, it might be ok, but as soon as it evaporates, you're just using an unlubricated lock.

Proper lock lubricant spray will have water dispersant nature, anti corrosion inhibitors, as well as a lubricant that works pretty well. I'd bet that if you were to lube quarterly it'd work better than WD40 once a week. On land in the PNW living right next to salt air, in a generally humid environment I lube locks once a year, on the boat I do twice, if i remember

[CarlF]

If someone is willing to cut a lock to get in, on most boats it’s easier to simply insert a big screwdriver behind the hasp and pry it off. Or pry a hatch open.

In both cases they’ll probably do substantial damage to woodwork or fiberglass.