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Chotu · 14-07-2023, 05:09

If sprayed, I was just going to use the Prevals I have onboard.

Area is 14-24 inches x 6ft and another area 14-24 inches x 2-3ft.

Guys who did the chain plate lamination didn’t mask (as instructed) and let epoxy run down the side of the boat, destroying the paint.

rslifkin · 14-07-2023, 05:18

If you can find a suitable place to spray and can suit yourself up enough to be safe, that's probably the better option for using the paint you already have. You already know how it sprays, but no idea if it'll come out decent when rolled or if it'll just turn into a time wasting pain in the butt.

Bill O · 14-07-2023, 05:28

Never used those sprayers before only compressor based systems . Are they for touch up?

Those are some fairly large areas. Do they have enough paint volume and aerosol to do tack, middle and finish coats?

Chotu · 14-07-2023, 05:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill O

Never used those sprayers before only compressor based systems . Are they for touch up?

Those are some fairly large areas. Do they have enough paint volume and aerosol to do tack, middle and finish coats?

Yes. These are just little touch up sprayers. I sprayed the whole boat with my huge 240V 3 phase compressor and Devilbiss gun using a pressure pot to mix up a gallon or 2 at a time.

Those don’t seem like big areas to me. Ha ha. Not after doing the whole boat. This is 50 ft long and 8ft tall x 4 essentially. But with those little tiny sprayers I’m sure they will seem big.

My paint system doesn’t have all of those coats. It’s one coat. Shoot it and you are done. And it’s beautiful. It’s good stuff. The high gloss just rises out of the paint to the top surface.

Bill O · 14-07-2023, 05:58

Personally I'm better painting with a gun that I can adjust the pressure, spray pattern and volume vs. a spray can. ymmv

It will be quicker to spray and the majority of the work will be in the prep. In the end, the job will be judged by the money shot.

If that is what you have, go for it.

Chotu · 14-07-2023, 06:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill O

Personally I'm better painting with a gun that I can adjust the pressure, spray pattern and volume vs. a spray can. ymmv

It will be quicker to spray and the majority of the work will be in the prep. In the end, the job will be judged by the money shot.

If that is what you have, go for it.

Of course. The gun was so much fun to use. I really enjoyed painting the boat actually. To go from something so ugly to something perfect in just hours was really amazing. Materials a boat is built out of are quite ugly and patchy looking until paint goes on.

My question was regarding rolling or spraying which is more efficient to make my quart of paint last longer. I think we lost sight of that.

If I spray, overspray will take some paint away. If I use a roller, some will be stuck in the roller. And probably multiple rollers because it will kick and these foam rollers will probably fall apart at some point also.

There is no money shot. This is to make the colors the same so it looks good from 100 feet away. There is no prep work. Just trying to look passable from a distance. The whole boat has to be redone because it was destroyed by hurricanes and bad workmanship. I’m just trying to get by here.

Bill O · 14-07-2023, 06:23

If all you want is a quick and dirty, spray will be more efficient than paint loss in a roller. Never used those sprayers, so do not know how much over spray there will be.

The spray is a one and done, so more efficient as far as your time. Even more time savings if you aren't going to paper off for over spray.

tomtriad · 21-07-2023, 11:27

I sprayed my 42' tri with Imron; Corlar primer, Imron gloss white base overcoat, 2 layers of each. Lasted 25 years and had a good hard surface.

Your Preval sprayers will work fine for the areas you need to refinish. I used Preval on a hull repair that was similar size, about 3' x 3'. I used Amron 545 2 part primer as the base coat, then the Imron 2 coats to finish. It took much less than a quart - maybe a pint of primer and a half pint of topcoat. The trick is to get a good base of the 545 down - it covers well and sprays on evenly with few sags and no orange rind. Where you're going over old paint primer not necessary.

Mask the area well, but don't tape to the edge of your touchup site - you want to feather the new paint in, and not get a hard line from the tape. You can build a small windbreak around the areas to prevent overspray drifting too far, and to help lay down an even spay pattern.

As I'm sure you're aware, many light coats will give a better result, allowing enough time between overcoats for the solvents to flash.

Smaller areas can be touched up with a foam brush, but the results were never as good as the Preval.

FYI after 25 years of use the gloss was off the Imron, and it was a PITA to mix for Preval all the time, so I resorted to Rustoleum 2X primer/paint for touch ups. It's cheap, durable, and there's a wide variety of colors to choose from, no mixing, good coverage. Quick and easy. cleans up with acetone. Instant boat in a can.

Chotu · 21-07-2023, 13:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomtriad

I sprayed my 42' tri with Imron; Corlar primer, Imron gloss white base overcoat, 2 layers of each. Lasted 25 years and had a good hard surface.

Your Preval sprayers will work fine for the areas you need to refinish. I used Preval on a hull repair that was similar size, about 3' x 3'. I used Amron 545 2 part primer as the base coat, then the Imron 2 coats to finish. It took much less than a quart - maybe a pint of primer and a half pint of topcoat. The trick is to get a good base of the 545 down - it covers well and sprays on evenly with few sags and no orange rind. Where you're going over old paint primer not necessary.

Mask the area well, but don't tape to the edge of your touchup site - you want to feather the new paint in, and not get a hard line from the tape. You can build a small windbreak around the areas to prevent overspray drifting too far, and to help lay down an even spay pattern.

As I'm sure you're aware, many light coats will give a better result, allowing enough time between overcoats for the solvents to flash.

Smaller areas can be touched up with a foam brush, but the results were never as good as the Preval.

FYI after 25 years of use the gloss was off the Imron, and it was a PITA to mix for Preval all the time, so I resorted to Rustoleum 2X primer/paint for touch ups. It's cheap, durable, and there's a wide variety of colors to choose from, no mixing, good coverage. Quick and easy. cleans up with acetone. Instant boat in a can.

A wonderful and completely applicable post. Thank you so much for sharing your experience with an almost identical paint system.

I can't believe how long the gloss has lasted and I'm happy to hear you got 25 years out of yours before it faded. Wow.

Do you know if the Rust-Oleum can be exactly computer color matched?

tomtriad · 21-07-2023, 14:42

Rustoleum has 2 -3 dozen colors, indicated on the cap and in 3 flavors: gloss, semi gloss, and flat. Try one and see if it works - if yph don't like it wipe off with an acetone rag. I doubt you can get computer matched colors as its in factory loaded spray cans. Sometimes 2 fers on sale at hardware stores. Nominal retail $7.

I14 · 21-07-2023, 17:46

2K urethane spray paint is supplied at a 'reasonable' viscosity so it can be filtered well in the factory and additives within help prevent pigment settling out. So apart from adding specialist additives like activated clays and silicas which tend to impact on gloss the only way for the manufacturer to increase viscosity is to supply it with less solvent (higher paint solids) from the start. The other problem is that since it is designed to be sprayed after adding spraying thinners the solvents used are moderately fast ( evaporation rate) so you don't get runs and sags. These solvents in the base paint make it difficult to brush as you cannot easily go over it again and tip out the marks as the paint has already set up, you need a slower brushing solvent which will make it too thin again. You can brush 2K enamel on small areas but don't thin it, use a really good brush and don't go back over your work, you'll just stuff it up

Chotu · 21-07-2023, 19:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomtriad

Rustoleum has 2 -3 dozen colors, indicated on the cap and in 3 flavors: gloss, semi gloss, and flat. Try one and see if it works - if yph don't like it wipe off with an acetone rag. I doubt you can get computer matched colors as its in factory loaded spray cans. Sometimes 2 fers on sale at hardware stores. Nominal retail $7.

Oh, ok. I thought you were taking about the quart and gallon canned Rust-Oleum.

Was wondering if they could add color to the white to match

KingRichard · 21-07-2023, 21:17

I didn't see anyone mention temperature. In general colder is more viscous and increases cure times. Depending on what method you ultimately go with be conscientious of the time of day, if you're in sun or shade, and both substrate and product temps before starting.