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Old 10-06-2019, 09:06   #16
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Re: Painting molded in non-slip

I've am currently dealing with this on my complete refit. I am sanding down with 40 grit and then filling with gelcoat and then sanding that smooth. I am prepping to spray the whole deck with gelcoat mixed with Duratec which helps with flowout and gloss. I removed teak decks and the decks have molded in non-skid.

In the pictures you can see the first section I did on the left and the section on the right I have sanded and spread the gelcoat on. This is also fairing some low spots.

After I spray the gelcoat finish I plan to tape-off the non-skid areas and roll on Awlgrip anti-skid.

You might try using a stainless wire cup brush in a drill motor on your painted texture. Try some acetone in spots with the brush or paint remover and wipe up with paper towels and dispose in the trash.
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Old 10-06-2019, 09:21   #17
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Re: Painting molded in non-slip

I will try a test spot to see how easy I can strip mine using a wire brush and/or citrus stripper or acetone. I prefer not using chemical strippers if possible. Depending on how difficult it becomes I may choose to sand or all off and use a non-skid product.
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Old 12-06-2019, 15:13   #18
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Re: Painting molded in non-slip

I don't like using chemical strippers either but the citrus stuff is definitely better. I also don't want to loose my gel coat areas. I want to maintain the gel coat out lines of the non-skid.



I agree that teak decks look nice but what a pain. The million holes in the deck are not worth it, not to mention that the sweet amber color lasts about 10 minutes before it grey's out and I am not one who likes that look.




The rotary wire brush might work at slow speed. Too bad they don't make an orbital wire "disc". I fear the high speed rotary might cut right through the deck.
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Old 12-06-2019, 15:39   #19
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Re: Painting molded in non-slip

yes, I wanted to keep the raised nonskid patterns to reduce the layout work also. That is why I only sanded the molded in peaks down almost smooth and then filled the rest with gelcoat to get a smooth surface to roll on Awlgrip with Soft Sand. This kept the raised sections, just that, raised.

As mentioned above, you don't have to have it smooth if you are going to use a product like Kiwi Grip or Durabak. They will hide the molded in surface. They are both good products and last 4 or 5 years before needing recoat. I just don't like the look personally. I have sailed offshore on long passages in rough weather and the Durabak performed great and probably better then the Awlgrip texture.



Cheers,
Jim
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