Penetrating Oils

[HappyMdRSailor]

A recent thread comment reminded me of something I recently ran across...

Penetrating Oils

Machinist's Workshop recently published some information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested penetrates (sic) for break out torque on rusted nuts.

Below listed, a subjective test was made of all the popular penetrates, with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

Average torque load to loosen

No Oil used ................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF - Acetone mix............53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.

Note also that Liquid Wrench is almost as good as Kroil for 20% of the price.

ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a
50-50 mix. (ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid)

[micah719]

Ooo, ta! That's worth a free glass of rum at the bar anytime!

[Maine Sail]

That test came out a while ago. After it came out I tried the ATF / Acetone mix. It works ok, and is pretty cheap per oz, but not as good as they make it sound. I have gone back to Kroil, Thrust and PB.

In the real world I still find PB to be one of the all around best, especially for the price. I also find that non "scientifically rusted" nuts, studs bolts etc. come free much better with PB or Kroil than the ATF / Acetone mix.... Kroil used to be great but the cans I get today are not what I feel it used to be, don't know why, though it is still pricey..

Last year I was doing the brake rotors on my wife's Honda Pilot. The set screws that hold the rotors on are notorious for rusting in place as are the caliper bolts. After two hours of soaking the right side in ATF / Acetone I had only stripped the Phillips heads of the set screws, even with an impact screw driver. One of them finally broke (Doh'!). I blasted the remaining two with PB and waited about 5 minutes. The one unbroken screw came right out with a quick blast of the impact driver despite having almost no grip left to it. I put my Knipex pliers on the broken one and was able to get it out. On the left side I simply sprayed with PB, waited five minutes, and both set screws backed right out with no damage to the heads..... These of course were not "scientifically rusted" on and had been naturally rusted, by real Maine winters...

Thrust is also an excellent product. Liquid Wrench makes numerous products and I find one of them to do okay but not the others. Can't remember which one I like though..

Another old timers trick is Coca Cola.. I still have my ATF / Acetone mix but find I use it pretty rarely..

[HappyMdRSailor]

***places hand over brow and scans the bar for Micah***

Agreed that I was skeptical or "scientifically rusted" being real world...

All the other pen oils are great.... but in far off cruising locales ... This is indeed an easily sourced mixture...

[Cotemar]

I 2nd the PB Blaster. Has worked on everything after I tried all the rest.
Smells funky, but works well

[rognvald]

"That test came out a while ago. After it came out I tried the ATF / Acetone mix. It works ok, and is pretty cheap per oz, but not as good as they make it sound. I have gone back to Kroil, Thrust and PB.

In the real world I still find PB to be one of the all around best, especially for the price." Maine Sail

I have also tried the AT/Acetone mix and agree with MaineSail. PB Blaster is my choice. Good luck and good sailing.

[bengearing]

What about mousemilk? I use it all the time and it works brilliantly.

[Cotemar]

Originally Posted by bengearing

What about mousemilk? I use it all the time and it works brilliantly.

Really now. It looks like a lot of work to me

[HopCar]

Bengearing, I was begining to wonder if I was the only one who had even heard of Mousemilk. Hard stuff to find but it works well.

[klem]

For most applications, I have found pb blaster to be the best for me. If that isn't doing the trick, I usually give Kroil or Liquid Wrench a shot and that sometimes does the trick.

The biggest thing is giving yourself plenty of time to apply it before you need to back off the bolt if possible. When I know I need to do work on one of our trucks, I spray all the bolts everyday after work for a week beforehand. Since starting to do this, I have broken many fewer bolts and spent a lot less time on projects.

[bengearing]

Originally Posted by HopCar

Bengearing, I was begining to wonder if I was the only one who had even heard of Mousemilk. Hard stuff to find but it works well.

Yeah you get the odd funny look when you mention putting mousemilk on rusty bolts! It is good stuff...most people I know who have used it swear by it. No wd40 etc in our workshop.

[Jim Cate]

So OK, someone gotta step up to the plate and do it:

WTF is mousemilk?

Cheers,

Jim

[Cotemar]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

So OK, someone gotta step up to the plate and do it:

WTF is mousemilk?

Cheers,

Jim

Mouse milk could be mouse glue if you pick the wrong utter.

[Teknav]

Mouse Milk...1%, 2%, 4%...at your local... Once you've tried it, no more rusty guts or rusty nuts...your sailing will be as loose as a goose...available in portable keg size...don't sail without it!

[David M]

Good stuff...thanks for the thread.