Preventing rust on tools

[atmartin]

Another product to consider is Fluid Film, which is lanolin-based, so it's good for rigging and whatnot. It displaces water. I try to stay away from anything too high tech and/or silicone based on tools, especially on carpenter's tools (which are carbon steel and rust quickly) because you could leave behind residue that messes with glue/epoxy/paint. Paste wax is best for woodworking stuff, but laborious.

For what it's worth, I spray tools with Fluid Film before doing work underwater. Give them a freshwater rinse and re-apply wax afterwards.

[Powercon Steve]

FORGET EVERYTHING YOU JUST READ!!!!! You may or may not believe this but DRYWALL in small squares will keep metal tools dry and rust free. I live in Fla. and I know humidity. Small pieces in with the tools will do the trick. Like a Zinc, it takes the hit and the tools don't Rust!!!

[CaptainMeyer]

I have had very good luck with teflon spray on tools that are not rusted. I would not leave them out and do recommend rinsing in fresh water and respraying after each use. I would recommend to initially use a bench grinder with a wire brush wheel to clean any and all rust off of the tools before spraying with teflon.

[Ken Pole]

If you have room in your toolbox, one of those renewable
dessicant cans might work.

[hellosailor]

Steve-
Drywall (ignoring the mysterious tainted Chinese stuff) is basically gypsum sandwiched in paper. And of course you're going to get nothing unless you cut that down exposing the gypsum edges so they can allow the gypsum to absorb water. Oops, gypsum powder will come out, that can cause reactions and corrosion. STRONGLY ATTACKS zinc and iron/steel products.
A bag of white rice will also absorb moisture...doesn't mean either one is REALLY the right product to chose for the job, when you've got time for choices.
You can literally mothball the tool box, if it works well enough to keep a battleship rust-free it will work for your tools. Except of course, the EPA now makes the point that the fumes are somewhat toxic and it is considered an insecticide, too.

[Captain Anthony]

I use WD 40 , wrap them in cotton baby dippers and keep them in a air tight box, for me, that has solved the problem

[atmartin]

Originally Posted by hellosailor

You can literally mothball the tool box, if it works well enough to keep a battleship rust-free it will work for your tools. Except of course, the EPA now makes the point that the fumes are somewhat toxic and it is considered an insecticide, too.

I was under the impression that mothballs don't contain camphor anymore, at least in the US. Does the insecticide also help with rust?

Camphor definitely works in toolboxes, but it's hard to get. You can buy it online, usually from India, but it's illegal in the US (at least concentrated) so some of the stuff sold online isn't actual camphor.

[alfreddiaz]

We are not in a humid area, but things still get wet here. It is a boat. So after water in the bilge found its way into my tools, I started keeping my tools in a lunch cooler sack. I can stow it low. They are water tight (below the zipper). They are quick to grab. I say they because I use them for other things I don't want to get wet. And they are cheap.

[Singularity]

I have considered powdercoating. Any reason/logic not to?

In the US you can buy a little jug for $7 that would probably coat all the tools (that can be powdercoated) and the toolbox on a sailboat.

The application issues that I think that I'm aware of are:
-cleaning the part
-getting the powder to stick enough to coat enough
-baking the powder

The considered plan:
-clean with soap then no residue solvent
-sprinkle coating
-bake with a toaster over, radiant heat, torch (doesn't have to look pretty, just stick and completely coat/cover)

A bonus is you can choose a color like yellow or bright orange. Easier to recognize on your or your neighbor's boat.

https://www.harborfreight.com/16-oz-...red-93309.html

[waterman46]

Boeshield. Spray it on and don't wipe it off and let it dry, or wipe off just very lightly. It forms a protective barrier that frankly is a bit sticky to the touch but does prevent rusting. I don't want to be bothered by the inconvenience of opening and resealing my tools in hermetic enclosures every time I use them, which is very often on my old boat.

Some tools seem to be very sensitive to salt air and others have no problem. You won't know until they have been in an ocean atmosphere for several months so if you just spray Boeshield on every new tool it's a good start.

[Madehn]

simple solution that has worked really well for me- go to WalMart and buy some childrens sidewalk chalk- put a couple of large pieces in each tool drawer-- seems to work very well for me-- i get a little rust once in a great while but not much. seems to act as a cheap dessicant

[sailorboy1]

Originally Posted by Peregrine1983

Curious to hear if anyone here has ingenious ways for preventing rust on steel tools. I'm on my third pair of lock pliers this season.

I'd really rather not coat my tools in anything, and my boat isn't air conditioned, so humidity levels are high.

What about an air tight tool container with damp rid pads or something? Anyone doing anything like that?

Any info appreciated.

My tools have been on the boat for 7 years and stored in regular cheap tool boxes or tool bags. They haven’t rusted at all.

So guess I don’t have an answer, but are you drippin* them in seawater.

[Suijin]

Originally Posted by John_Trusty

No one has mentioned it yet, and being currently in fresh water I'm no expert -- eliminate salt deposits. Salt does not in itself cause rust, but is hydrophilic so absorbs water from the surrounding atmosphere. This reacts with the iron in your tool (or your 'stainless' parts), and causes surface rust. Get in the habit of fresh-water rinsing your tools after every use, then wipe dry or give a light oil coating.

Won’t work. “Salt air” is not some sort of myth. If you’re offshore or spending long periods in bodies of water connected directly to an ocean or sea, salt just gets in and there is very little you can do about it as far as prevention goes. It’s why laptops and other non-marinized electronics don’t last if you just leave them sitting out, even if you’re not letting salt in through port lights and hatches or tromping in the cabin in wet foulies. It finds a way.

[jrd22]

Here is a link to an extensive trial that was done to prevent rust on archery broadheads (I'm a bowhunter). I was really surprised by how poorly some of the better known products did.



https://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=5528487


I use the Frog lube a couple of times per year on my boat tools and it works great. I just store them in an open canvas tool bag. I'm using tools often enough that getting them out of an ammo can would be a hassle for me.

[GordMay]

Gypsum, as commonly used in drywall, has a low adsorbency capacity, only approximately 10% of it weight, making it a lower-performance desiccant. It can work, but somewhat poorly, compared to (say) Silica Gel, which will absorb up to 40% of its weight in moisture.