Propane copper hose replacement

[landonshaw]

I am looking at replacing my propane copper hose from the tank to the stove. To replace with copper it would be extremely hard. Is it possible to replace with propane rated rubber hose? Much easier to tread from the stern to the center of the boat.

[skipmac]

My understanding, European CE regulations require copper but a short run of hose is allowed where flexing is needed, like the last bit to a gimbled stove.

However in the US all rubber is allowed and, when done correctly, proper fittings, etc is in my opinion as safe or safer than copper and certainly a lot easier to install.

If you will need to comply with CE for any reason (insurance, resale in EU, charter in EU, etc) then you may have to go copper. Otherwise, go with propane certified rubber hose.

[GordMay]

CF member ‘Boatpoker’ offers this expert advice (Per ABYC A-01):
“Fuel Line - Type approved (UL21) hose or grade K or L annealed copper in one continuous length from the locker to the appliance, must be chafe protected where it passes through bulkheads and secured with clips (plastic). There must be no other connections to this line outside of the locker other than at appliance and for your families sake, don't run it through an engine compartment. The photos in the next section will show why I don't like metal fuel lines approved or not.”
(emphasis mine)
More ➥ Safe Boat Propane System Installation

Full text of "ABYC A-01: Marine Liquified Petroleum Gas Systems" ➥ http://oya.com/yardblog/wp-content/u...11/01/A-01.pdf

Or ➥ Full text of "ABYC A-01: Marine Liquified Petroleum Gas Systems"

[landonshaw]

Thank you for the fast responses. I will use the rubber propane rated hose. Should be relatively easy...

[Pete7]

Just out of curiosity what is wrong with the existing copper pipe?

Pete

[landonshaw]

It looks like some areas are possible corroding. Maintenance issue. Rather have it replaced now than having it fail while out and no place to get parts.

[Davidhoy]

Originally Posted by landonshaw

I am looking at replacing my propane copper hose from the tank to the stove. To replace with copper it would be extremely hard. Is it possible to replace with propane rated rubber hose? Much easier to tread from the stern to the center of the boat.

I am in the middle of upgrading my propane system, and just replaced the old, corroded, copper line with a Trident Marine rubber gas line with factory-installed fittings on either end. The only connections in the entire system are at the stove itself, and in the propane locker. Fortunately my boat has a PVC conduit running from the galley to the lazarette where the propane locker is located, so even though it runs through the engine space, it is still protected.

There is now a gas control panel located off to the side in the galley, so it can be reached even if there is a fire on the stove, a 16 gauge duplex wire runs aft to the propane locker for controlling the solenoid, and I am installing a gas fume detector. My only question, perhaps one someone here can answer for me, is do I install the detector directly underneath the stove, or run it into the bilge? I've heard it done both ways, and am undecided on which option is best.

Regards,
David

[Cheechako]

Soft copper tubing isnt too hard to route through the boat. It helps to have a second person feeding it.

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by landonshaw

Thank you for the fast responses. I will use the rubber propane rated hose. Should be relatively easy...

It is available with a SS mesh armor.

[Cheechako]

Also, if you just have a bit of green on the copper in the back locker, that's what it does, you can fine sand the area and see if it's pitted much. It can be protected with lanolin or acrylic spray in those wet areas if you wish.
You may find you have to hog out all those hard to get at holes in bulkheads to get the larger flexible hose through. So be prepared for that.

[Dougtiff]

Best to install the detector under the stove, as in the bilge install has corrosion issues, if the detector is easy to get at, it's easy to test from time to time by using a butane lighter,[don't light the lighter,just allow the gas to exit,if detector is working, it will activate the selodoid.

[Davidhoy]

Originally Posted by Dougtiff

Best to install the detector under the stove, as in the bilge install has corrosion issues, if the detector is easy to get at, it's easy to test from time to time by using a butane lighter,[don't light the lighter,just allow the gas to exit,if detector is working, it will activate the selodoid.

Thanks, Doug! I was leaning that way, and now I have confirmation from multiple sources, including the guy who wrote one of the articles linked to by GordMay's post above.

-David

[deblen]

Link to recent LPG threads http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ea-193991.html

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ed-193012.html

Len

[bdbcat]

Hi all...

And while we are talking propane...

I have soft copper from electric shutoff valve to stove. No joints/connectors, etc. Copper is clean, not green.

Here is the question.
The stove has not been used for a day or so. When I turn it on and try to light it, it takes some time for a combustible gas to arrive at the stove. But I hear the gas hissing into the burner. The piezo lighter is clicking merrily.

The line from the shutoff valve to the stove is about 10 ft. It takes maybe 10-15 seconds before the gas will light, even though the piezo clicker is making active spark. I hear the hiss, but don't smell gas. The separate gas alarm does not activate.

So, shorten the scenario.
I wait say 8-10 hours after using the stove. I then try to light it again. It lights instantly, then almost immediately goes out, still hissing. A few seconds later it lights from the click lighter, and works fine.

I suspect a slow gas leak in the copper section, but am unable to find it with soap bubbles.

Any ideas?

Thanks
Dave

[john61ct]

I only use rubber for appliances I need to move around, and then only the last bit.

And replace it as soon as I see any cracks, usually every othe year or so.

Would **never** use it on a boat.