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BubbleHeadMd · 11-03-2010, 10:50

The head thru-hulls were glassed over and the PO left me an RV cassette toilet in it's place. Since the Chesapeake is soon to be a NDZ anyway, an RV head is the only option left. I don't want to sacrifice any more space to a holding tank. Well, I could do a composting toilet, but that's another story.

There is the thru-hull for the combined output of the sink and the icebox drain, and the thru-hull for the cockpit drain and that's it.

Oh, there is a thru-hull for the knot log, but that's covered with a blanking cap until I remove it and plug in the actual paddlewheel.

anjou · 11-03-2010, 10:59

why isnt it possible to have a non return thu hull?

**FrankZ** · 11-03-2010, 11:32

I got rid of the ice box drain (and the gate valve). I got tired of forgetting to open the valve and getting my stuff in the icebox wet (we just used it for storage and carried a big cooler).

Fishman_Tx · 11-03-2010, 12:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobfnbw

.....Seems to me that a better way to do it would be straight fiberglass tubes glassed into the hull, and no thru hulls. Bob

Works good on ours.....

Straight tubes.

Stillraining · 11-03-2010, 12:21

Re: Straight tube cockpit drains:

Even though this is the Way Amel does it..I would not do it on my boat...I am quit sure Im not as stiff a built boat.

There is no allowance for flex between hull and deck/cockpit floor with this system...I would still have a sea cock with some hose between...cutting away a partially fractures 4" tube at sea and trying to stop that size of ingress is not my idea of a good day.

I will be trying to figure out a different way to drain mine but haven't come up with a plan yet...Really about the only two options I have are Enlarge my 2 current 1 1/2 drains to say 3" each or possibly go out the Starboard side of the hull with say a 4" I don't like that idea much either.