Re-insulating My Refrig. Box the Hard Way.

[OzePete]

Originally Posted by rgleason

Dear Peter (Ozifridge) We have a BD80 compressor

Ozefridge - Danfoss BD80 Electric air and DCW cooled, C150/T45 for 4.55cu.ft. or 128 liter Model No 4530, Serial No 1605, June 2006


The manual for the BD80 shows 24vdc power as possible. Are the controls and h20 pump ok for that voltage? If so, how will performance change? Will more energy be used?


We've been discussing changing the electrical system to 24vdc in this thread

Hi Rick, The BD80 compressor can be powered up with either 12VDC or 24VDC without any modification, just apply the power source. The issue is the STC 8080 digital controller which is rated at 12VDC as is the micro pump for the water cooling.

You could apply a resistor to the controller supply and swap the pump for a 24VDC one, but really Rick it would be much simpler to leave as it is and use a 24VDC to 12VDC solid state water proof converter like this:
(Click on to expand)



Cheers OzePete Ozefridge | 12 Volt Refrigeration Systems

[OzePete]

Originally Posted by rgleason

Dear Peter (Ozifridge) We have a BD80 compressor

Ozefridge - Danfoss BD80 Electric air and DCW cooled, C150/T45 for 4.55cu.ft. or 128 liter Model No 4530, Serial No 1605, June 2006


The manual for the BD80 shows 24vdc power as possible. Are the controls and h20 pump ok for that voltage? If so, how will performance change? Will more energy be used?

Sorry Rick, I didn't respond to this later part of your question:
All power consumption is rated in watts regardless of the voltage employed. A compressor using say 6A/h on 12VDC will normally use only 3A/h on 24VDC but the actual consumption is the same: ie: 6x12 = 72watts and 3 x 24 =72 watts. So no difference in consumption.
What matters is watts! (Amps multiplied by Volts)

Cheers OzePete

[rgleason]

Thanks Peter, very helpful to those of us considering 24vdc.

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by OzePete

leave as it is and use a 24VDC to 12VDC solid state water proof converter like this: Attachment 179954

Pete, did you mean to reco that specific maker of DCDC converter,

http://www.ykpowersupply.com/product...?anclassid=175

or do you think that product type is generically OK imported from China?

[OzePete]

Originally Posted by john61ct

Pete, did you mean to reco that specific maker of DCDC converter,

DC-DC Converter 1-500W

or do you think that product type is generically OK imported from China?

Hi John,
Yes the Yucco brand of solid state Dc-Dc converters are very good. When searching for an 'add -on' component we do extensive testing and always apply the 33% rule to electronic and electrical items. That is to only choose items so they will be operating at only 33% of rated capacity. We have used hundreds of the Yucco product without any problems.

Regards China made, like any country they have their share of rubbish but they are also producing some very fine in fact superior products. For example, since Secop bought Danfoss compressor manufacturing about 8 years ago,in my opinion the Chinese made Secop BD series compressors are now far superior to the earlier product especially now with soft start Motor Driver Modules.

Cheers OzePete Ozefridge | 12 Volt Refrigeration Systems

[john61ct]

Excellent Pete, much appreciated.

[rgleason]

Pete, a friend is buying a seafrost keel cooler, despite my ozifridge suggestion. What kind of gains/ losses in efficiency are there with those? I suppose you loose air cooled fan energy and at some point going towards the equator loose lots of efficiency. What are the general guidelines and experience with these?

[skipgundlach]

Originally Posted by rgleason

Pete, a friend is buying a seafrost keel cooler, despite my ozifridge suggestion. What kind of gains/ losses in efficiency are there with those? I suppose you loose air cooled fan energy and at some point going towards the equator loose lots of efficiency. What are the general guidelines and experience with these?

I had not been aware that SeaFrost offered a keel cooler. I would have vastly - by several orders of magnitude - preferred a keel cooler to the %$#%^&*()*&^%$^&*( water cooled addition I have to my air cooling...

Cite? I'll order one and do a pre-emptive haulout if it actually has a history of working (my next haulout, absent some issue, is for bottom paint; my current rate of consumption of the ablative suggests 4-5 years minimum, maybe more, as the first color's 2-coats/3 waterline/leading edges is just now showing through, from January 2013...) - I have a dead (long story here in CF; you could search it if you liked) Frigoboat keel cooler now in place that I could bung out and use that hole...


Thanks for raising my awareness!

[OzePete]

Originally Posted by rgleason

Pete, a friend is buying a seafrost keel cooler, despite my ozifridge suggestion. What kind of gains/ losses in efficiency are there with those? I suppose you loose air cooled fan energy and at some point going towards the equator loose lots of efficiency. What are the general guidelines and experience with these?

Hi Rick,

I don't wish to comment on a specific maker but I didn't think Seafrost made a 'Keel cooler' model.
Generally I would not support any water cooling involving raw water and DC power specially as those offered are also uncontrolled, that is subject to over or under condensing.
I could explain in more detail, perhaps in a new thread, as we are getting too far away from this threads theme.

Cheers OzePete

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by OzePete

Hi John,
Yes the Yucco brand of solid state Dc-Dc converters are very good. When searching for an 'add -on' component we do extensive testing

Pete, have you taken HF RFI interference issues into account in your comparison testing?

[jhulmer]

Project Post: #10

I wanted to give you a final follow-up of the completed project.

I completed the install of all the components and added a shelf in the fridge.

The boat is still on the hard and I have many other winter projects before I launch in the spring. However, I have run the unit for sometime now with mainly just bottles of water in the box.

so far the system is preforming perfectly. It only takes the freezer about 3 hours to reach 0 deg F and the fridge 36 deg F with and ambient temp of 75 deg F.

I am seeing about 9 amps draw with the compressor on high speed during draw down and only 2 amps on low speed with the fridge at temperature.

I am really liking what I see here and it has been worth every painstaking minute and every precious dollar.

Thanks to all for the questions, comments and suggestions!

A few final pictures:

[Typhoon]

Originally Posted by jhulmer

Project Post: #10

I wanted to give you a final follow-up of the completed project.

I completed the install of all the components and added a shelf in the fridge.

The boat is still on the hard and I have many other winter projects before I launch in the spring. However, I have run the unit for sometime now with mainly just bottles of water in the box.

so far the system is preforming perfectly. It only takes the freezer about 3 hours to reach 0 deg F and the fridge 36 deg F with and ambient temp of 75 deg F.

I am seeing about 9 amps draw with the compressor on high speed during draw down and only 2 amps on low speed with the fridge at temperature.

I am really liking what I see here and it has been worth every painstaking minute and every precious dollar.

Thanks to all for the questions, comments and suggestions!

A few final pictures:

Jim That looks great , you did a fantastic job!

9 amps on high is a little high , I tested your system and it ran at just under 7 amps on high on pull down. Your low speed amps are right on the money . You may have something else on the circuit that your amp meter is also reading maybe your transfer fans . That would add up to 9 amps.

How is the solvent smell , did you drop in the big bag of activated carbon I suggested?

Do you have an idea of the amp hours you are using as yet . I assume they will be very low with a pull down time of 3 hrs to 0F from 75 !!

Very impressive job.

Regards John

[jhulmer]

Originally Posted by ColdEh Marine

Jim That looks great , you did a fantastic job!

9 amps on high is a little high , I tested your system and it ran at just under 7 amps on high on pull down. Your low speed amps are right on the money . You may have something else on the circuit that your amp meter is also reading maybe your transfer fans . That would add up to 9 amps.

How is the solvent smell , did you drop in the big bag of activated carbon I suggested?

Do you have an idea of the amp hours you are using as yet . I assume they will be very low with a pull down time of 3 hrs to 0F from 75 !!

Very impressive job.

Regards John

Hi John

The draw down amps does include the spillover fan on high also. Additionally, the 2 amps includes the fan on low. It really reads between 2.0 and 2.2 amps.

I just remembered that I failed to add that the box was already at 56 deg F (from the day before) prior to the 3 hour draw down. The temp outside the box was at 75 deg F. So still not too bad at all for just air and about 6 bottles of water.

I realize that when I but a case of beer and some Bratwurst in there it will take longer! I hope to test that real soon.

I have used the carbon and it works. The smell is not bad now at all.

I haven't run the unit long enough yet to asses the total amp-hours yet but am curious about this, it will tell the story on the new insulation. I will be evaluating this after I launch and have the box full.

[Typhoon]

Well if you cooled down the box with water bottles in it that fast even from 56. Then you are in a good place .

Glad the carbon worked , without it, the smell lingers for months .

Post a picture of your controller placement and the condensing unit installation . I would like to see how you got that placed .

Regards John

[OzePete]

Originally Posted by john61ct

Pete, have you taken HF RFI interference issues into account in your comparison testing?

John, firstly an apology.. the converter brand name is Yucoo not Yucco as quoted.

In Australia we are required to abide by Radiation Protection Series Codes and standards. There are many RPS codes depending upon the application. https://www.arpansa.gov.au/regulatio...-and-standards

When sourcing components we seek verification that the items comply with the RPS requirements, has been suitably tested and approved.

We don't have our own electronics engineer but for decades have worked together on our projects with Chris an Adelaide electronics engineer. Chris's company is recognised as among the best available here in Oz.

Any component we are in doubt about we have Chris check as he has the emissions testing equipment and ability.

We have no emissions issues with our products.

Cheers OzePete Ozefridge | 12 Volt Refrigeration Systems